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ineScale 


Howto-doit features: 

Building your f irst 
cast-metal car kit 

Detailing and weathering 
a trio of WWIIjeeps 

Building a five-model 
scalę reference display 

Posing and painting 
"The Fez Seller" 
in 1/32 scalę i 



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/ 


IŁ 


7A82O 08285 


2 3 


Introducłng 5 new columns łn this łssue . . . 
łncluding product news and łn-depth kit revłews! 















































INTRODUCING A SYSTEM 
OF ENAMELS GUARANTEED 
TO MATCH FS COLORS. 


Authentic models require authentic 
paint schemes. To meet this need, 
Testor has developed a series of en- 
amels guaranteed* to match the most 
frequently used Federal Standard 
(FS) colors; the Model Master Custom 
Enamel System. 



How can Testor guarantee 
a perfect color match? 

Rather than using 595-A, which is only 
a reference and not a color matching 
guide, Testor chemists developed work- 
ing formulas after analyzing 3" x 5" offi- 
cial color chips issued by the 
General Services Admin- 
istration (GSA). "Draw- 
downs” (test films of each 
batch of paint) were 
exactly matched to the 
GSA chips for color 
and specific reflec- 
tance measurements 
before the samples 
were approved. 



Why might Model Master colors 
not always match colors seen on 
actual equipment and vehicles? 

Any color fades and changes when ex- 
posed to light and the elements. If you 
are building models of new equipment, 
Model Master enamels ensure 
authenticity. "In service” 
models must be authenti- 
cated by using weathering 
techniques in 
addition to Model 
Master colors. 


Can Model Master enamels be 
used in an airbrush? 

Yes! We have formulated a special thin- 
nerfor use in airbrushing. In addition, 
the ten most frequently sprayed FS 
colors are available in convenient 3.2 
ounce spray cans. 


Can these paints be madę flatter? 

Absolutely! Simply mix in common 
talcum powder. 

Can they be madę glossier? 

No. The reflectance can, however, be 
changed by overspraying with one of 
the Model Master Protective Finishes: 
gloss, semi-gloss, lusterless (fiat). 



These coatings adhere to specific re¬ 
flectance guidelines defined by the 
government. 



Model Master Accessories: 

In addition to the enamels, the Model 
Master system includes a linę of preci- 
sion tools designed specifically for 
modelling. Included are: assorted 
brushes, sanding films, Hobby Knife, 
Precision Cementing Tips and No. 11 
refill blades. 



Look for the Model Master rack at 
your local hobby shop. Ali the 
materials in this new system reflect 
our commitment to quality at 
every stage of production. 


*ln some cases, the paint formula requires 6 to 7 
pigments. Testor only guarantees a perfect 
match if you stir, not shake, the paint thoroughly 
before each use. 


3 

m 

o 


o 

a 

b 

o 

b 


<§> 




















FineScale 


EDITORIAL STAFF 

Editor: BOB HAYDEN 
Associate Editor: BURR ANGLE 
Editorial Assistant: MARCIA STERN 
Editorial Secretary: MONICA BOROWICKI 
Assistant Copy Editor: RICH BOWEN 
Ubrarian: GEORGE H. DRURY 


ART STAFF 

Art Director: LAWRENCE O. LUSER 
Staff Artist: BILL SCHOLZ 
Staff Photographcr: A. L SCHMIDT 


EXECUTIVE STAFF 
President and Publisher JAMES J. KING 
Editorial Viee President: DAV1D P. MORGAN 
Vice President, Sales/ Marketing: W. A. AKIN JR. 

Executive Art Director: GEORGE A. GLOFF 
Ad Sales Manager FREDERICK J. HAMILTON 
Circulation Sales Manager: THOMAS J. D’AMICO 
Sales Promotion Manager: GARY W. DOLZAL1. 
Advertising Production Manager: ART CURREN 


ON THE COVER 

Prizewinning modeler Larry Schramm has every 
right to be proud of thc five Mustangs he built in 
five different scales. The story of why — and 
how — he built the models begins on page 26. 
Sharing the spotlight are Joe Berton’s 1/32 
scalę “Fez Seller” vignette (page 20) and Wayne 
Moyer’s cast-metal Mexican Road Race Ferrari 
in 1/43 scalę (page 44). Photos by A. L. 
Schmidt, Lane Stewart, and Wayne Moyer. 


FINESCALE MODELER (ISSN 0277-979X) is published quar- 
terly by Kaimbach Publishing Co.. 1027 N. Seventh Street. 
Milwaukee, WI 53233, (414) 272-2060. SUBSCRIPTION 
RATES: 8 issues, $15; with foreign postage (outside the Unit¬ 
ed States) 8 issues, $19. © 1982, Kaimbach Publishing Co. 
Application to mail at second-dass postage rates is pending at 
Milwaukee, WI. and at additional offices. Printed in U.S.A. Ali 
rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in 
part or in whole without written permission from the publish- 
er. except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. 
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FINESCALE MOD¬ 
ELER. Kaimbach Publishing Co., 1027 N. Seventh St, Mil¬ 
waukee, WI 53233. 

FINESCALE MODELER assumes that such materiał as let- 
ters, dub news. new-product information, etc., is contributed 
gratis. Feature articles and scalę drawings are paid for on ac- 
ceptance. Photographs accepted separately are paid for upon 
publication. Leafiets outlining in detail the preparation of fea- 
tures, photographs, and drawings are available on request 
from the editorial secretary. Unsolitited materiał, if not ac¬ 
cepted, will be retumed only if postage and wrappings are pro- 
vided for this purpose. FINESCALE MODELER assumes no 
responsibility for the safe return of unsolicited materiał. 



Posing and painting “The Fez Seller” — 20 

JOE BERT0N 

A dramatic two-figure vignette built from Airfix 1/32 scalę multi-pose figures 


Styrene parts from RTV molds — 23 

BOB HAYDEN 

The only exotic tooling is a toaster oven 

Building a five-model scalę reference display — 26 

LARRY SCHRAMM 

Ouickly constructed P-51s that immediately explain the concept of scalę 

Modeling the Supermarine Walms in 1/48 scalę — 28 

R0SC0E CREED 

Funny — it doesn’t look like a Spitfire 

Three for the road — 36 

BRUCE CULVER 

Detailing and weathering a trio of World War Two jeeps 

Building your first cast-metal car kit — 44 

WAYNE E. MOYER 

A 1/43 scalę Mexican Road Race Ferrari 

Realistic weathering for older trucks — 51 

JOHN MAHAFFEY and JACK GURNER 
Ninę techniques you can use to age any model 

Modeling Ludwig Bolkow ł s versatile MBB BO 105 
helicopter — 54 

DENNIS M00RE 

Minor modifications to an excellent kit produce a 1/48 scalę prizewinner 


DEPARTMENTS 
Update — 4 
Reader Forum — 8 
Workbench Reviews — 10 
FSM Looks at New Products 


From the Editor — 19 
Book Briefs — 60 
Tips and Techniąues — 64 
16 Index to Advertisers — 70 














Kits. For $3.00, Aerodrome Products, 
3950 Third Avenue, Sacramento, CA 
95817, sells a vacuum-formed 1/48 scalę 
fuselage for the WWI German Albatros 
D-I, D-II, and D-III. Scalę drawings are 
included. 

Combat Models, 1633 Marconi Road, 
Wall, NJ 07719, has added the follow- 
ing vacuum-form kits to its linę: Mc- 
Donnell F-101 Voodoo in 1/32 scalę for 
$20.95, Martin PBM-5A (or PBM-3B) 
Mariner in 1/48 scalę for $22.95, Ger¬ 
man U-Boat Mk. VI1C in 1/72 scalę for 
$18.95, and U. S. S. Barb WWI1 fleet 
submarine in 1/72 scalę for $24.95. Ali 
kits contain detailed plastic parts and 
plans, although the modeler has to fur- 
nish such accessories as guns. Three 
other kits from Combat Models, all in 
1/32 scalę, are the Do 335A-1 and 6, 
$20.95; Grumman F9F Panther, $18.95; 
and North American FJ-1 Fury, $18.95. 

Recent releases from lmrie/Risley 
Miniatures, Inc., P. O. Box 89, Burnt 
Hills, NY 12027, are four 54 mm cast- 
metal figures representing Confederate 
soldiers in dress uniforms: Model C-90 is 
a rifleman of the Alexandria Rifles, 6th 
Battalion Virginia Volunteers, 1860; 
C-91 is a rifleman of the Republican 


Blues, lst Regiment, Georgia Volun- 
teers, 1860; C-92 is a cavalryman of the 
lst Virginia Cavalry Regiment, C. S. A., 
1861-62; and C-93 is a ranger of Terry’s 
Texas Rangers (8th Texas Cavalry), 
C. S. A, 1861-64. Each kit comes with 
painting instructions, a color reference 
card, and a brief history. Each sells for 
$5.95. 

LST Products, 5655 Beechnut, Box 
157, Houston, TX 77096, manufactures 
a 1/35 scalę bombed-out farmhouse, Kit 
No. M 102, appropriate for Western Eu- 
ropean settings from Napoleonie times 
to the present. The plaster model mea- 
sures 6" x 8"; the price is $14.95 plus 
$2.00 for postage and handling. 

Recent Tamiya kit releases from Mod¬ 
el Rectifier Corporation, 2500 Wood- 
bridge Avenue, P. O. Box 267, Edison, 
NJ 08817, include No. WS004, 1/350 
scalę Japanese battleship Musashi at 
$54.98; No. 1404, 1/12 scalę Yamaha 
RZ350 motorcycle at $10.98; No. 
SS2419, 1/24 scalę Toyota Turbo 

2000VR sports car at $10.98; No. 1405, 
1/12 scalę Yamaha Beluga 80 motor 
scooter, $7.50; No. SS2424, 1/24 scalę 
Renault 5 Turbo sports car for $11.50; 
and No. SS2420,1/24 scalę Nissan Leop- 
ard TR-X Turbo sports car for $10.98. 
Also available is a 1/6 scalę Kawasaki 
KZ1300B motorcycle, No. BS0621, for 
$84.98. For 1/35 scalę armor enthusiasts 
and diorama builders there are Kit No. 
MM222A, ah M4A3 Sherman tank for 


$10.98; No. MM-180, eight figures rep¬ 
resenting a WWII U. S. Army armored 
infantry rifle squad for $3.98; No. 
MM221, WWII U. S. infantry weapons 
set, $3.98; and No. MM219, U. S. 
107 mm mortar with three crew fig¬ 
ures, $3.75. 

Minicraft Models, Inc., 1510 West 
228th Street, Torrance, CA 90501, an- 
nounces the late fali release of three 
Minicraft/Hasegawa 1/48 scalę kits of 
the F-4 Phantom, the F-4B/N, F-4C/D, 
and the F-4J/S. The firm will also in- 
troduce three 1/48 scalę kits of the 
Hughes 500D helicopter in civilian, 
U. S. Army, and U. S. Navy versions. 
The other new kit is a 1/48 scalę Type 
52a Zero. Kit numbers and prices have 
not been announced. 

Monogram Models, Inc., 8601 Wau- 
kegan Road, Morton Grove, IL 60053, 
will release several kits this fali. They 
include No. 5806, an F-105G Wild Wea- 
sel in 1/48 scalę for $6.75; three 1/16 
scalę truck models each for $25.00, No. 
2500, a Peterbilt 359, No. 2501, a Ken- 
worth W-900, and No. 2502, a Ken- 
worth W-900 Aerodynę; four 1/15 scalę 
motorcycles each for $5.50, No. 2414, a 
Honda Road Racer, No. 2415, a Harley- 
Davidson FXS-80, No. 2416, a Kawa¬ 
saki Police 1000, and No. 2417, a Ka¬ 
wasaki Z550 LTD. A 1/20 scalę model 
of the Ultra Z Camaro, No. 2413, is 
$6.75. 

Polk’s Model Craft Hobbies, Inc., 346 



EVERYTHING FROM THE GROUND UP 

... should compliment the hours of effort it You add the foliage ... as much or as little as See hundreds of accessories, suitable for 

took to make your fighting vehicles “just you like. The fuli color printed background military scenes, in the Walthers HO 

so”! Walthers GNARLED OAKS and INSTANT scenes add the illusion of hundreds of square Raiiroad Catalog. 913-634.$8.95 

HORIZONS Background Scenes help you miles of scenery (this diorama is only 11" 

create realistic dioramas. You can almost deep). u mg m m n ^ 

smell the gunsmoke! Ask your f avor jt e s^op to order these scenie details Ł» C 

These Gnarled Oak kits are derived from <°7 5 our fi 9 h,,ng vehicles ' "* they 1/61 ’ 1/72 ‘ 5I01wnUrf* 

natural tree forms. 933-989 Gnarled Oaks 3 Smali (5”) .$8.25 Milwaukee ’ Wl 53218 

933-988 Gnarled Oaks 2 Medium Trees (7") ... $8.25 

933-987 Gnarled Oaks 1 Large Tree (8").$8.25 

949-708 Country to Desert Background 

24"x36" .$7.95 

(send SSAE for a list of 17 different scenes) M v WĘHty *•«, 

Mjr- 

- -i ” 

w 

. 

- 

Jk ~ _*• 1982 wm K walthcrs lnc 


4 FineScale Modeler 




















Let us introduce you to 
America’s fastest growing hobby! 


Assemble, finish and collect 

l:43rd scalę ALL-METAL car kits 


the universal standardized scalę 
for miniaturę car collections. 


All detail of the original has been captured 
in miniaturę to reproduce an exquisite replica. 
Ali are expertly cast in soft but durable white 
metal except for vinyl tires and elear plastic 
“glass” pieces. Many contain brilliantly plated 
adornments and fuli color 
decals. Unlike partial 
or all plastic models, 
these miniatures when 
finished will retain 
their beauty for many 
years of proud ownership. 


You will enjoy the hours of leisure pleasure 
in the simply assembly and finishing of each 
model. With this, there will be a lifetime of 
owning pleasure with each jewel-like miniaturę. 
We now have well over 300 different outstanding 
automotive creations. Many of these 
may be completed in morę than 
one version. They are now 
valuable collectables 
... In miniaturę 
... In 1:43 scalę 
... In ALL METAL 



1938 Mercedes-Benz 540K No. WMS 1K $37.95 


Western Models madę in England 



These are of high quality manufactured to precise standards. They 
attract both the novice with very simple assembly. and the 
experienced builder and collector for their exquisite 
detail and accuracy. Included are 3 series: classic 
and landspeed record cars; Formula 1 and other race 
cars; and lale model ultra-prestige automobiles. 


New and Jusl Released: 1957 Maseratti 450S 
Speclal introductory price: No. R31K $23.95 (will 


be $29.95 Nov. 1,82) 


FoD 





ltaly’s Finest 



1976 Porsche 934 Yaillant No. 66A $18.95 


F.D.S. has over 120 miniatures. 
Begin with one of these and 
receive their $1.50 
17 page catalog 

FREE 


This industrious firm is the leading producer of 1:43 kits. Their 
extremely good value of price, quaiity and large seiection make 
these miniatures some of the most in demand by coliectors. 
And to further provide you with added interest, there are 
accessories, decals and wheel sets. Add to this a series of 
driver helmets of ALL-METAL in 1:12 scalę. 


Other Porsches 
available at $18.95 

1976 934 Jagermeister No.66 

1977 934 JMS-3M No.69 

and: Porsche 935’s 

1976 Kremer-Vaillant No.52 

1976 Kremer-Rodenstock No.52A 


Catalog with fuli color of available car kits 
includes a miniaturę tool & finishing seiection. 
$2.00 or FREE with order 


Order today and send to 

MCM Dept E2 
1525 W MacArthur Blvd #20 
Costa Mesa CA 92626 
orPhone 714-751-8232 


Charge to Visa/Mastercard 
Minimum $17. Sorry no COD 
Add Shipping and Handling 
Domestic $4.00/Foreign $5.00 
Calif Res add 6% sales tax 


^Flrst llme avallable to hobbylsts from Professional^ 
patiem makers and model bullders. l\ow In plnts. 
The most versatile of all 


Set-Fast Filier Pastes, 
this is a two-part system 
which is smooth and creamy. 
Sets absolutely rigid in 15 
minutes with no shrinkage 
or pinholing. Adheres to and 
bonds most metals, plastics, 
and itself. May be applied 
in any thickness, from seam 
filling to creating all new 
contours. File; carve; sands 
to a perfect feather edge. A 
must for all model builders. 
Ultra Filier No. 14 $7.95 


!£plie| 

SET-FAST FIU***" 

^-TRA-FILLER N0.14 
I^:Rigid-Machinę 3 ®* 
Color: ULTRA WHITE 





















VULTEE VANGUARD 


A 1/24 CARD MODEL KIT 


F E ATU R E S Fli LL COLOR PARTS. 
PHOTO ESSAY HISTORY OF P-66. 
ILLUS. INSTRUCTIONS. DUPLICATE 
PARTS. U.S. -CHINESE M ARKINGS 

KIT- $5.50 postpaid Catalog - .25* 

META MODEL ~ V 
PO BOX EE I 
BATAN/IA, NV 14020 



MODEL 


O ne of the largest se- 
lections of plastic kits 
in the State with over 2000 
square feet of aircraft, 
cars, trucks, and military 
models. 

P >lus one of the largest 
selections of die cast 
vehicles anywhere. 

Open every night til 8 p.m. 
Master Charge/Visa accepted. 
‘‘YoiTII love the prices, too!” 


HAROLD S PLACE, INC. 
522 Chestnut St., Lynn, 
MA 01904 


HOBBY SHOP S INOUIRIES INVITED 

Now available four R.V.F. 

1/72 scalę vacuform models 

_ 

Northrop X- 
Bel1 X-5 

Bristol T.188 & 

Saunders Roe SR A.l 


also injection molded kits. 


Lockheed P2V-7 Neptune w/skies 
Boeing SST 

Martin P6M-1 Seamaster 
Bell X-5 

Douglas DC-8-61 United 
Douglas DC-8-32 Viasa 
Boeing IM-99 BOMARC missile 
Martin PBM-5 Mariner 
A-4Q SKYHAWK Argentine Navy 
T-28A Mexican A.F. 

T-28B U.S.A.F. 

0S2U-3 Kingfisher U.S. Navy 
Hu-16B Albatross U.S. Navy 

Imported from Mexico and Brazil 
Modelers Send S.A.S.E. for catalog 



R.V.F. HOBBY IMPORTS 
P.O. Box 107 
BURBANK, CA.91503 


Bergen Avenue, Jersey City, NJ 07304, 
announces the following new Heller 
kits for early fali: No. 762, 1/24 scalę 
Renault 4 CV automobile; No. 813, 1/150 
scalę five-masted ship Preussen ; No. 
310,1/72 scalę Lockheed L749 Constel- 
lation with decals for Air France and 
TWA; and No. 713, 1/24 scalę Citroen 
hotel taxi. Prices have not been 
announced. 

Rai Partha Enterprises, Inc., 5938 
Carthage Court, Cincinnati, OH 45212, 
announces the release of a cast-metal 
Imperial Dragon. This 25 mm scalę fig¬ 
urę is a limited edition; 6,000 will be 
sold in the U. S., 2,000 in Canada. The 
figurę measures approximately 10 " from 
head to taił, 6 " from wing tip to wing 
tip, and sits atop a lV 4 "-high treasure 
trove. It sells for $50.00. 

Paints and adhesives. Carl Gold- 
berg Models, Inc., 4734 West Chicago 
Avenue, Chicago, IL 60651, now pack- 
ages its Super Jet (gap-filling) and Jet 
(thin) cyanoacrylate cements in trans- 
lucent plastic bottles with tapered noz- 
zle tips. The tapered tip greatly reduces 
the chances of the nozzle clogging. Gold- 
berg also claims a long shelf life for 
these cements. One-fourth-ounce bot¬ 
tles of Jet or Super Jet are $1.95, Vi- 
ounce bottles are $2.95, 1 ounce are 
$4.98, and 2 ounce are $9.95. 

M. Grumbacher, Inc., 460 West 34th 
Street, New York, NY 10001, announces 
that several of its products are now 
available in aerosol cans. They include 
Tuffilm fixative, matte; Damar var- 
nish, matte; picture vamish, matte; and 
picture vamish, gloss. Ali four are avail- 
able in two sizes — 12 2 /a ounces and 4V* 
ounces — except picture vamish, which 
is 11 % ounces only. 

Pacer Technology & Resources, 1600 
Dell Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008, of- 
fers Zap-a-Gap, a high-viscosity cyano¬ 
acrylate cement. Pacer says that Zap-a- 
Gap will bond oily, stained, or acidic 
surfaces. It’s packaged in and 1 - 

ounce bottles with clog-resistant tips. 
Prices are $ 2.10 for !4 ounce, $3.70 for 
l A ounce, and $6.95 for 1 ounce. Include 
$ 1.00 per order for shipping and han- 
dling if ordering direct. 

Pactra Industries, Inc., 7060 Holly¬ 
wood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90028, 
now offers 18 of its Authentic Interna¬ 
tional Colors hobby enamels in 3-ounce 
aerosol cans. 

The Testor Corporation, 620 Buck- 
bee Street, Rockford, IL 61101, has re- 
leased a linę of Model Master enamel 
hobby paints. Available in l / 2 -ounce bot¬ 
tles ($1.29) and 3.2-ounce aerosol cans 
($2.29), the paints are formulated to 
match Federal Standard colors. There 
are 48 colors in the linę, with varying 
degrees of gloss according to the re- 
flectance of the Federal Standard color 
being matched. 

Winsor & Newton, 555 Winsor Drive, 
Secaucus, NJ 07094, has introduced a 


linę of artisfs paints with an alkyd 
binder. There are 34 colors in H/i-ounce 
tubes. Winsor & Newton claims that 
alkyds combine the working ąualities 
of oils with a much faster drying time. 
The alkyds can be worked for several 
hours, just like oils, but dry completely 
within 18 hours. The paints can be 
thinned with turpentine or minerał 
spirits. 

Winsor & Newton has also added sil- 
ver and gold metallic colors to its linę 
of gouache paints. The paints contain 
aluminum and bronze particles and may 
be used alone or mixed with any of the 
78 other Winsor & Newton gouache 
colors. They are sold in 30 ml jars. 

Accessories and landscaping ma- 
terials. Illinois Hobbycraft, Inc., 605 
North Broadway, Aurora, IL 60505, sells 
6 " x 15" self-adhesive sheets with brick 
pattem and texture. Both standard brick 
and paving brick pattems are avail- 
able in weathered and unweathered 
yersions in 1/87, 1/48, and 1/12 scales. 
A package of two sheets is $6.95, plus 
$1.50 if ordered by mail. 

Waldron Model Products, 1358 Ste¬ 
phen Way, San Jose, CA 95129, an¬ 
nounces its racing car seat belt buck- 
les. The buckles are available in 1/43, 
1/24, 1/20, 1/16, 1/12, and 1/8 scales. 
The 1/8 and 1/16 scalę buckles are $3.25 
per set, the others are $2.85 per set. 

Tools. Badger Air-Brush Co., 9128 
West Belmont Avenue, Franklin Park, 
IL 60131, imports from England a self- 
adhesive masking materiał, Foto/Fris- 
ket, the firm claims is easy to cut and 
easy to remove. It’s sold in packages of 
ten 8 / 2 " x 11 " sheets for $7.00, in 
12" x 15'rolls for $12.00, and 24" x 15' 
rolls for $ 22 . 00 . 

Binks Manufacturing Company, 9201 
West Belmont Avenue, Franklin Park, 
IL 60131, offers its Raven double-ac- 
tion airbrush. Ali air and fluid seals 
are Teflon; the needle chuck is Delrin. 
The Raven is packed in a solid walnut 
box and comes with color cup, reamer, 
medium and fine needles, wrench, and 
airbrush hanger. The price is $74.50. 

Dremel, P. O. Box 518, Racine, WI 
53406, offers its Model 1304 portable 
magnifying lamp with 4"-diameter lens 
and 40-watt incandescent bulb. The price 
is $47.95. A weighted base (Model 1306) 
is available for $16.95. 

Dremel has also recently introduced 
a variable-speed flexible-shaft tool with 
a three-position switch that provides 
the option of going from a preset speed 
to 25,000 rpm at the flip of the switch. 
The flexible shaft is 34" long and its 
handpiece accepts all Dremel collets. 
Price is $103.95. 

Emcolux, 2050 Fairwood Avenue, Co¬ 
lumbus, OH 43207, announces its Sty- 
rocut hot-wire cutter for Styrofoam and 
sheet plastic. The tool operates from a 
6 -volt lantern battery and cuts mate- 


6 FineScale Modełer 











rial up to 2" thick. The cutter is $6.95; 
packages of three replacement wires 
are $1.50. 

Falcon Safety Products, Inc., Dept. V, 
1065 Bristol Road, Mountainside, NJ 
07092, announces the Dust-Off II clean- 
ing system, which consists of a 12- 
ounce aerosol can filled with a triple- 
filtered gas, a lockable valve, and a 
nozzle. Accessories include Stat-Off II, 
which attaches to the valve, and is said 
to eliminate static electrical charges on 
all surfaces; extension nozzles; and a 
Mini-Vac, which also attaches to the 
valve and removes dust. The Dust-Off 
II retails for $24.95. Refill aerosol cans 
are $4.50. The Stat-Off II attachment is 
$17.95. A kit containing the Dust-Off II 
and all accessories is $42.50. 

The Gillette Company manufactures 
a new disposable scraping and cutting 
tool called the Widget, which consists 
of a plastic dispenser and handle that 
holds a special stainless steel single- 
edge blade, and includes a compart- 
ment for used blades. Each Widget comes 
with five blades. The introductory price 
is 99 cents. 

M. Grumbacher, Inc., 460 West 34th 
Street, New York, NY 10001, manufac¬ 
tures a red sable round brush, 178-10/0, 
that sells for $2.50. 

Jarmac, Inc. P. O. Box 2785, Spring- 
field, IL 62708, announces its all-metal 
•Kr" drill press. It comes with a 5,000 rpm, 
*/is hp motor and a V" Jacobs chuck. The 
drill height adjusts up to 7" from the 
base on a 14" post. It has a 4" throat, 
and the drill bit will travel 2" when 
using the lever. 

The 6" x 6" base has two mounting 
holes and rubber pads on each corner. 
Price: $109.50, plus $3.00 freight. A foot- 
operated speed control (No. 4001) is 
also available for $25.50. 

Maxon, P. O. Box 243, Carlstadt, NJ 
07072, now sells a packet (No. H86) of 
carbon-steel twist drills containing one 
each No. 50, 56, 60, 65, 70, and 76 
drills, the six sizes most often used by 
hobbyists; the price is $3.85. 

Microflame, Inc., 3724 Oregon Ave- 
nue South, Minneapolis, MN 55426, 
manufactures the Dragon gas torch, 
which features a hand-held control le- 
ver for flame adjustment. Microflame 
States that the lever is an important 
safety feature because the flame is ex- 
tinguished whenever the lever is re- 
leased. The torch uses disposable gas 
cylinders, which last up to four hours. 
The fuel is 49-percent butane, 51-per- 
cent propane (by weight), and produces 
a 2,500-degree F. flame, so the torch 
may be used for soldering and brazing. 
A torch and one gas cylinder sell for 
$19.95; replacement 9-ounce gas refills 
are $6.95 each. 

Stacor Corporation, 285 Emmet Street, 
Newark, NJ 07114, has introduced the 
Tritec taboret, a rolling plastic and 
metal storage cabinet that is 16" wide, 
16 3 // deep, and 29" high. The taboret 


contains bins, shelves, and trays which 
can be arranged to hołd a variety of ob- 
jects including bottles, cans, smali tools, 
and drafting aids. The taboret retails 
for $242.00; contact Karen M. Gross at 
Stacor for addresses of local dealers. 

Sutcliffe Productions, Westcombe, 
Shepton Mallet, Somerset, England, man¬ 
ufactures dark gray styrene stream- 
lined strut stock for 1/72 scalę model 
aircraft. Each package contains ten 12" 
lengths ranging in width from about 
Vu to W'. North American modelers 
may purchase the strut stock from Da- 
bar Depot, 13407 Wales Creek Road, 
South Wales, NY 14139, for $2.50 plus 
$.50 postage and handling. 

Virnex Industries, Inc., Rt. 1, Box 
154B, Reedsburg, WI 53959, manufac¬ 
tures decal sets containing geometrie 
shapes such as diamonds, sąuares, and 
rectangles in sizes ranging from less 
than W' to morę than an inch. Each 
5 7 /s" x 8W' sheet sells for $2.75. Several 
colors are available. 

Miscellaneous. The Gateway Chap- 
ter of IPMS, which hosted the 1982 na- 
tional convention, prepared an anthol- 
ogy of articles from its ąuarterly journal 
for distribution at the convention. Ti- 
tled The Best ofCrazed Plastic, this 60- 
page, 8Vfe" x 11", soft-cover book is now 
available for $4.00 (which includes post¬ 
age) from the chapter, care of Dave 
Venker, 1554 Louisville, St. Louis, MO 
63139. The book contains useful how-to 
modeling information and many scalę 
drawings. 

Model & Allied Publications, Ltd., 
P. O. Box 35, Bridge Street, Hemel Hemp- 
stead, Herts., HP1 1EE, England, an¬ 
nounces Scalę Models Warplane Spe¬ 
cial , a 96-page (12 in color), single- 
issue magazine containing drawings, 
photos, and text about the Fokker DRI 
Triplane, Yugoslavian Bf 109Gs, Grum¬ 
man Hellcat, BE2C/E, Convair Priva- 
teer, Sopwith FI Camel, Fairey Ful- 
mar, Handley Page Heyford and Vic- 
tor, Hawker Sea Fury, and F-16 Fight- 
ing Falcon. According to the publisher, 
morę than 80 percent of the contents 
were prepared especially for this issue. 
The price in North America is $3.00. 

Scalecraft, P. O. Box 4231, Whittier, 
CA 90607, publishes 24" x 36" 1/25 scalę 
five-view drawings of the Focke Wulf 
Fw 190F-8, Messerschmitt Me 262A-la, 
Fw 190D-9, Focke Wulf Ta 152H, and 
Messerschmitt Me 109G and K. The 
Me 262A drawings are on two sheets 
and sell for $7.00; the others are on sin¬ 
gle sheets and sell for $5.00 each. Prices 
include first-class postage; add $2.00 
per order for rolled drawings. 

World War 1 Aeroplanes, 15 Cres- 
cent Road, Poughkeepsie, NY 12601, a 
society of enthusiasts interested in pre- 
1919 aircraft, offers a sample copy of its 
journal, W. W. 1 Aero , for $4.00. 

Catalogs. Aero Publishers, Inc., 329 


West Aviation Road, Fallbrook, CA 
92028, offers a free catalog listing morę 
than 200 aviation-related books, many 
of which contain text, photos, and draw¬ 
ings of interest to scalę modelers. 

Aviation Book Company, 1640 Vic- 
tory Boulevard, Glendale, CA 91201, 
has prepared a free catalog listing 1,200 
aviation-related books. 

Castings, P. O. Box 3482, Longwood, 
FL 32750, manufactures an extensive 
linę of reusable silicone rubber molds 
for toy soldiers and 1/32 scalę (54 mm) 
figures, special casting metals, stoves, 
ladles, and other supplies. A free cata¬ 
log is available. 

Empire Pacific, Ltd., 18027 Clark- 
dale Avenue, Artesia, CA 90701, offers 
a free catalog listing a number of Japa- 
nese aircraft, tank, ship, motorcycle, 
and car kits from such manufacturers 
as Sharp, Yodel Model, Yamada, Ao- 
shima, and Nagano Model. 

Imrie/Risley Miniatures, Inc., P. O. 
Box 89, Burnt Hills, NY 12027, offers 
catalog No. 148 listing their cast-metal 
military figures, most in 1/32 scalę 
(54 mm). The catalog costs $2.50. 

Jet Set System, 549 G La Rambla, 
Ponce, PR 00731, has a new catalog 
listing airliner kits, decal sets, and 
books. It sells for $1.00. 

Krasel Industries, Inc., 1821 East 
Newport Circle, Santa Ana, CA 92705, 
offers a 78-page catalog listing the firm’s 
1/32, 1/48, 1/72, and 1/144 military and 
civilian aircraft decals. The cost is $1.00. 

Mail-Call Models, 1525 West MacAr- 
thur Boulevard, No. 20, Costa Mesa, 
CA 92626, has a 40-page catalog of 
plastic kits, tools, paints, books, and ac¬ 
cessories of interest to modelers. The 
catalog sells for $3.00. 

Model Car Masterpieces, 1525 West 
MacArthur Boulevard, No. 20, Costa 
Mesa, CA 92626, offers a catalog of 1/43 
scalę cast-metal model car kits, which 
includes products by such manufactur¬ 
ers as Precision Miniatures, Western 
Models, and Modelcar Danhausen. The 
catalog costs $2.00. 

The Naval Institute Press, U. S. Na- 
val Institute, Annapolis, MD 21402, 
has released its free Fali 1982 catalog 
of books relating to naval affairs, ships, 
and aircraft. 

Science Books International, Inc., 51 
Sleeper Street, Boston, MA 02210, of¬ 
fers a free catalog listing books from 
Jane’s Publishing Company, which Sci¬ 
ence Books now distributes in North 
America. 

Sąuadron Mail Order, 1115 Crowley 
Drive, Carrollton, TX 75006, has re¬ 
leased its 40-page Summer 1982 cata¬ 
log of books, kits, tools, and accessories. 
The catalog costs $1.00. FSM 

FSM invites manufacturers and publish¬ 
ers to submit news releases, photos, prod- 
uct samples, and new catalogs. Send all 
materiał to FSM Update, FINESCALE MOD- 
ELER, 1027 North Seventh Street, Milwau¬ 
kee, WI 53233. 


Fali 1982 7 


VI st Armored 
| \Model Supply 
I—ACompany 

Mail Order Only 

* HEADQUARTERS * 

For 

SUPER-DETAILERS 

& 

SCRATCH-BUILDERS 


• Grill-Palc • Poly-Rod • Nuts & Bolts 
• Scratch-Strip • Sheet Styrene 


V 


S<*nd $ 1.00 for mir ratalng. 

lst Armored 
Model Supply Company 

P O Box 1706. New Rochelle. NY 10802. 


J 


Styrene... 

Fast, Accurate, 
Yersatile 


Fol Iow the lead of top modelers. 
Use precut styrene strips and 
sheets on your next project. 


evemn 

^ scale moflels 
# 


Ser youf dealct for completr linę 
of tlytene bullding materials o« 
send long SSAE to Dept. 117 
for sample and info. 

1414-127lh PI. N.E.Suile 107 
Bellevue. Washington 98005 



F-101 by Bo Boksanski. Best in show winner. 



VACUFORMED MODEL KITS 


Corning Soon 


2 

Ib 

32-068 Kingfisher 

$16.95 

3 

Ib 

48-001 PBY 

21.95 

3 

Ib 

48-002 Privateer Conv 

13.95 

2 

Ib 

32-003 F8F Bearcat 

15.95 

2 

Ib 

32-004 He 162 

1595 

2 

Ib 

32-005 Ju 87 D&G Conv. 

10.00 

2 

ib 

32-006 Ta 152 H&C 

16.95 

3 

Ib 

32-007 SB2C Helldiver 

19.95 

3 

Ib 

32-008 He 219 Owi 

21.95 

3 

Ib 

32-009'Ar 234 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

32-010 Ta 154 

1895 

3 

Ib 

32-011 AM-1 Mauler 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

32-012 Bf 109 F-K-H 

18.95 

2 

Ib 

32-013 P-39 Airacobra 

15.95 

4 

Ib 

48-014 Sunderland 

24.95 

3 

Ib 

32-015 TBM Avenger Temp. Discontinued 

3 

Ib 

32-016 Me 410 

18.95 

2 

Ib 

32-017 Fw190D 

12.95 

2 

Ib 

32-018 Go 229 Horton 

16.95 

3 

Ib 

32-019 BV 222 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

32-020 Wffirlwind New Mold 

17.95 

1 

Ib 

72-021 AC-1 Carobou 

10.00 

3 

Ib 

32-022 B25 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

32-023 F-105 D-F 

20 95 

4 

Ib 

32-024 F7F Tigercat 

Discontinued 

2 

Ib 

32-025 P-47 Razorback 

12 95 

3 

Ib 

32-028 A-7 Corsair II 

19.95 

3 

Ib 

32-029 Rex George 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

32-030 F-8 Crusader 

1895 

3 

Ib 

32-031 FJ-1 Fury 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

32-032 F-101 A.B.C.G/H 

2095 

3 

Ib 

32-033 F9F Panther 

1895 

3 

Ib 

72-034 Mk VII U-Boat 

18.95 

4 

Ib 

72-035 U.S. Fleet Sub 

24 95 

3 

Ib 

32-036 Do 335 A B-8 

20.95 

3 

Ib 

32-037 F-100D 

18.95 

3 

Ib 

48-038 He-177 

19.95 

3 

Ib 

48-039 PBM Mariner 

22.95 

1 

Ib 

48-040 Go 229 Horton 

10.95 

1 

Ib 

48-048 Rata 

8 00 

1 

Ib 

72-049 Ascender 

6.00 

1 

Ib 

72-050 X-15C-1 Curtiss 

6.00 

1 

Ib 

72-051 Me 163 A 

6.00 

2 

Ib 

48-080 Ar 96 

10.00 

2 

Ib 

48-081 He 162 

10.00 

2 

Ib 

48-082 Me 410 

13.95 

2 

Ib 

48-083 He 126 

13.95 

1 

Ib 

35-084 Mercedes Benz G4 

6.00 

1 

Ib 

35-085 Bussing Nag 4500 

6.00 

1 

Ib 

35-086 Grosser LKW AnHanger 

1000 

1 

Ib 

35-087 Rommels Mammut 

10.00 

1 

Ib 

35-088 Leichter Zugkraft 

3T SD KFZ II 

10.00 

1 

Ib 

D-OOOCombat Decals 48 32 
four sheets Ger Brit. 

American apx 200 parts 

10.00 

1 

Ib 

DG-001 1 32 German Decals 
& stencils high guality 

7.50 


NEW—ALL FEATURE METAL 
ACCESSORIES 
SBC-3 4 Helldiver 1/32 scalę 
P-6E Curtis Hawk 1/32 scalę 
Brewster Buffalo F2A-3 1/32 scalę 
B-58 Hustler 1/48 scalę 


NEW 1982 CATALOG $3 50 
If purchased wilh an order S3 00 

Correspondence send postage 

SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS 

U.S. orders to Continental States shipped UPS 

Must include Street address with order 

West of Miss. add S2 00 

East of Miss. add $1.50 

shipping costs are per order not per kit 

CANADA Shipped Parcel Post add $3 10 first 2 Ibs. 
$1.00 each additional 1 Ib 

OVERSEAS Surface rates $3 25 first 2 Ibs SI 05 
each additional 1 Ib. U.S Funds only 
Plus $1 00 special packmg & handlmg 
Insurance for Parcel Post Add $100 for each 
$50 00 ordered 

APO & FPO write for postage ratę 

Notę Ali checks must elear our bank Allow 4 
weeks delivery Money orders shipped in one week 

N J residents add 5% sales tax Ali prices subject to 
change without notice. 

Ali sales are finał. Vacuformed kits are for the maturę 
modeller we suggest the inexpenenced begin with a 
simple kit to start off. eg Go229 Or write to IPMS 
P O box 480 Denver CO 80201 for Information on 
the plastic hobby Club branch nearest your area 


COMBAT MODELS 

1633 MARCONI ROAD 
WALL, NEW JERSEY 07719 


FSM READER FORUM 


Let us know what you think! Comments, 
suggestions, corrections, and additional 
information on FSM articles are welcome 
in this column. Letters submitted for pub- 
lication should be clearly marked "To the 
Editor" on both the envelope and the let- 
ter. should be typed or hand-printed. and 
should be no morę than 300 words long. 

FSM’s test issue. I reserved a copy of 
the trial-run first issue of FineScale 
MODELER at my hobby dealer (Maker’s 
Hobby) here in Abilene, and today I 
picked it up. I was very impressed! 

The articles presented in this first is¬ 
sue, although merely the tip of the ice- 
berg, are fairly representative of what 
we modelers out here in the hinter- 
lands have been needing. Even though 
the average modeler is not about to try 
(or want) to duplicate Paine’s "Nelson 
diorama” or Twistfs "Prince and his 
pony,” there is still modeling knowl- 
edge to be gleaned from the articles. 

Taking you at your editorial word 
that you would like input, I would like 
to make the following comments. 

First: Do not fali into the trap of the 
other publications and clutter up the 
modeling articles with excessive photos 
and narration of prototypes. Pictures 
needed to illustrate or emphasize a 
point may be necessary, but a modeler 
wanting in-depth prototype informa¬ 
tion can most generally find it avail- 
able through other sources. 

Second: When presenting construc- 
tion articles (conversion, vacuum-form, 
etc.), piease include drawings to clarify 
what is being accomplished, where pos- 
sible. Although it may be called copy- 
catting the fine British publication Scalę 
Aircraft Modelling , I would like to see 
an article on vacuum-form construc- 
tion or a conversion (perhaps both!) run 
in each issue. 

Third: When mentioning trade names 
of materials, piease give some indica- 
tion of where these materials (or a like 
substitute) can be obtained. Many a 
time, a trade-name product found to be 
of use to a particular modeler may not 
be available in other local areas, or 
may be known by another name. 

My hobby dealer has informed me 
that you plan to publish ąuarterly is- 
sues, but has no word on when the next 
issue will be published to begin them. I 
am looking forward to the next issue 
and hope it is not too long a wait! 

In the interim, here’s wishing you all 
success with this new venture. 

Fred J. Helmick 
Abilene , Tex. 

I personally would like to see model¬ 
ing articles on historie racing cars. How 
about that 1970 Lemans winner, the 


8 FineScale Modeler 





























Porsche 917, and the green and purple 
one also, painted in that wild scheme? 

The older series of American racing 
cars would also be interesting, and a 
real challenge! I’m thinking of the older 
dirt track sprint cars, and board track 
racers of the ’20s and ’30s. 

I feel that a couple of other areas 
have been really neglected — the civil 
aviation sector in all time periods, es- 
pecially the ’20s, ’30s, and ’40s, and ex- 
perimental aircraft of any period, civil- 
ian or military. 

Lastly, let’s see a monthly and hang 
up the ąuarterly idea! Good grief! One 
of life’s simple pleasures is hitting the 
magazine racks at the hobby shops each 
month for the goodies; the interlude 
there is already too long! Three months? 
Absolutely, positively unbearable! 

And how about following the lead 
from Scalę Models in the UK by putting 
subscription issues in a brown enve- 
lope? I truły dislike mailing labels in- 
discriminately slobbered all over the 
front cover, and then read by half the 
personnel of the Post Office. Let them 
get their own subscription! 

R. D. Holley 
Van Nuys, Calif. 

[We’ll be including racing cars and 
civilian aircraft in futurę issues, R. D., 
and subscription copies will be mailed 
in envelopes. As for monthly issues, be- 
fore I can satisfy that reąuest we need a 
larger staff to produce the magazines 
and a cabinet fuli of high-quality arti- 
cles to fili them with. We’re working on 
both. — B. H.] 

NASM s Fw 190F. I was especially in- 
terested in the article by Ernest Paz- 
many detailing his construction of a 
Fw 190F-8 model based on the current 
restoration now being undertaken by 
the NASM. 

Production of the Fw 190F-8 began 
in March 1944 and continued until the 
end of the war with about 4145 ma- 
chines being built. An additional sev- 
eral hundred were manufactured from 
older airframes of the A-series. Appar- 
ently, the NASM’s aircraft is one from 
the latter category. 

I notę that Ernie suggests mottling 
the modeFs side surfaces with two col- 
ors: 02 and 75. While all of us recognize 
that almost anything was possible in 
late-war German paint schemes, it 
should be noted that the use of color 75, 
gray-violet, as a fuselage mottle was 
not authorized. In most cases, Focke 
Wulf 190s used a two-color fuselage 
mottle and, in the case of the late war 
production machines, it seems much 
morę likely that these two colors were 
based on the new regulations. As a case 
in point, the aircraft shown at the top 
of page 40 in our Offlcial Painting Guide 
to German Aircraft were mottled in 
brown violet 81 and a dark green. Inci- 
dently, we are currently working on 


Monogram Close-up 8 detailing the 
story of the Fw 190F. Publication is 
slated for later this year. 

Thomas H. Hitchcock, Publisher 
Monogram Aviation Publications 
Boylston, Mass. 

A fine scalę idea. I have just finished 
reading the Spring 1982 issue of FlNE- 
Scale Modeler and I have found it to 
be a fine magazine. However, I do have 
one suggestion; please print your air¬ 
craft drawings in accepted aircraft 
scales (1/72, 1/48, or 1732), as this will 
permit modelers without photographic 
enlargement or reduction capabilities 
to work directly from them. Thank you 
for your time and good luck with your 
magazine. 

Woody Straub 
Pittsburgh, Pa. 

[A fine idea, Woody, and from now on 
we plan to run all drawings in a com- 
mon modeling scalę, with the grid pat- 
tern behind them keyed to a scalę mea- 
surement. In fact, if you’ll check the 
Supermarine Walrus drawings on pages 
30 and 31, you’ll find we’ve already 
started! — B. H .] 

Sommerfield’s Sea Fury. Just a few 
things on the RAN Sea Fury article in 
FSM No. 1 by Ken Sommerfield. Firstly, 
on page 26 Ken states that the Sea 
Fury served with WH587 Sąuadron, 
RAN. There was no such sąuadron as 
WH587; this was a manufacturer’s num- 
ber. Also, he said that the K number 
was missing from the vertical stabi- 
lizer and therefore meant that the air¬ 
craft was never based on a carrier. In 
fact, the K was the designation letter 
for the carrier HM AS Sydney while the 
letter M was for HMAS Melbourne. The 


shore-based letters were NW for Nowra 
air base and these appeared on the ver- 
tical stabilizer as well. 

Regarding the kangaroo on the roun- 
del of RAN Sea Furies as far as I can 
check through my extensive records, 
the ’roo never appeared on the Sea 
Fury and we used standard British 
roundels per the photo on page 24/25. 

The color renditions of the Sea Fury 
on page 26 are superb, very accurate, 
and I pass my compliments to Ken for a 
fine article. Please don’t think Fm nit- 
picking, I just thought he may like 
some morę information. 

Tim Vickridge 
Fremantle, Western Australia 

[Thanks for the information, espe¬ 
cially the explanations of the taił let¬ 
ters. As to the kangaroo inside the 
roundels, this appears clearly in an of- 
ficial RAN photo of the piane while it 
was in service. In fact, this photo shows 
that the present owner of Sea Fury 
WH587 has (with the exceptions Ken 
mentioned) preserved the markings of 
the piane as it appeared while serving 
the RAN. The photo in ąuestion was re- 
produced on page 20 in IPMS Quar- 
terly , Vol. 2, No. 2. — B. A.l 

Correction. |Several readers pointed 
out that the address for Bill Koster’s 
Koster Aeronautical Enterprises was 
incorrect in the Spring 1982 test issue 
of FSM. This is the source of the con- 
version kit that Ernie Pazmany used to 
build his model of the NASM Fw 190F- 
8. To complicate matters further, Bill 
has sińce moved. We’re sorry for the 
mistake. The current, correct address 
for Koster Aeronautical Enterprises is 
233 East Ellis Avenue, Libertyville, IL 
60048. — B. H. 1 FSM 


SEYERSKY! 



P-35 

PURSUIT OR 

S2 RACER 

1/32 SCALĘ 
PLASTIC MODEL KIT 


Designed during the 1930$, the P-35 was an ancestor of the famous P-47 Thunderbolł. 
This kit may be constructed as either the P-35 military pursuit or a Bendix racer. 

KIT FEATURES: TWO TYPES OF WHEELS (hard and flexible tires) • DETAILED INTERIOR 
• TWO TYPES OF DECALS • TWO TYPES OF CANOPIES 


Send for complete illustrated catalog. DEPT. FS 

181 PAWNEE ST., SAN MARCOS, CALIFORNIA 92069 



Fali 1982 9 










FSM WORKBENCH REYIEWS 



Every FSM Workbench Review is a first- 
hand report by a modeler who has actu- 
ally built the kit or used the product. While 
our reviewers are encouraged to compare 
the products to simiiar ones in their exper- 
ience, evaluation is of secondary impor- 
tance; the reviewer’s primary goal is to 
provide a detailed description of the prod¬ 
uct so FSM readers can evaluate it for 
themselves. Modeis shown in Workbench 
Reviews are built straight from the box. 


Kit: No. 6301, Grumman F-14A Tomcat 
Scalę: 1/32 

Manufacturer: Tamiya, imported by 
Model Rectifier Corporation, 2500 
Woodbridge Ave., Edison, NJ 08817 
Price: $69.95. 

TAMIYA’S TOMCAT is a large kit 
with a lot of parts — 333 of them on 
seven trees. Most parts are molded in 
light gray plastic which I found neither 
unusually hard nor soft compared to 
other kits. The model is broken down 
into the forward fuselage (cockpit sec- 
tion); lower fuselage; upper rear fuse¬ 
lage; upper main fuselage containing 
the support for the wings and their 
gear mechanisms; wings, ordnance, fuel 
tanks and their mountings; and land- 
ing gear. 

Perhaps the most noteworthy parts 
are the metal support piąte, screws, 
washers, and brass bushings for the 
folding wing mechanism and the wire 
support rods that strengthen the land- 
ing gear to support the weight of the 
completed model (about 2 l A pounds). 
The multicolored decal sheet measures 
8" x 15" and provides markings for a 
VF-211 aircraft operating from U. S. S. 
Constellation, a VF-84 aircraft from 
U. S. S. Nimitz , and an Iranian Air 
Force version. The kit includes three 
figures: pilot, NFO, and catapult crew- 
man. 

My evaluation of the parts before 
construction was that they are well 
above average, with excellent detail. 
The landing gear assemblies are little 
kits in themselves (with 15 parts each, 
not including the rubber tire), and the 
same goes for the ejection seats, which 
contain 16 parts each. The only flaw I 
found was a smali crack near the back 
of the elear canopy, part G4, which the 
manufacturer replaced promptly in re- 
sponse to a written reąuest. 

The 16-page, 8" x 12" instruction book- 
let breaks assembly down into 36 elear 
and concise steps illustrated with 22 
photos and several dozen drawings and 
sketches. Painting and decal applica- 
tion instructions are included. Ali as¬ 
sembly options are clearly explained. 
The box art (a painting) ąualifies as 
part of the instructions, sińce it could 
]>e helpful in painting or decaling the 



kit if you’re not familiar with paint 
schemes and markings. 

For the most part I followed the in¬ 
structions exactly, but I did build up 
and paint the landing gear, ordnance, 
and ejection seats as subassemblies just 
to save time. The only problem I had 
with fit was where the forward fuse¬ 
lage section joined the upper main fu¬ 
selage. There was a little offset that 
had to be corrected there, so I filed and 
sanded the fuselage spine to even out 
and match up the body lines and con- 
tours as much as possible. I then lev- 
eled it with putty to eliminate high or 
Iow spots. The only other minor fit 
problem was where the jet intakes glue 
to the lower fuselage. Again, the offset 
was filed away and putty used to level 
it out. 

While the kit can be built ąuite ade- 
ąuately simply by following the in¬ 
structions, if I were to assemble this kit 
again I would reverse the order of steps 



Ali photos. FINESCALE MODELER: A. L. Schmidt 



11 and 12. As written, there is a possi- 
bility of creating a gap of up to VW' be- 
tween the forward fuselage section and 
the main fuselage assembly, which is 
what happened to me. By reversing the 
order of the steps you can fit the for¬ 
ward section morę closely after the up¬ 
per main fuselage assembly is glued in 
place. 

The swing-wing mechanism is accu- 
rately madę, presents no difficulties in 
assembly, and works fine. Three sets of 
parts are provided for the intake ramp 



10 FineScale Modeler 


























assemblies so that they may be mod- 
eled in the subsonic, transonic, or su- 
personic positions. I chose the subsonic 
position. 

I checked my completed model against 
drawings and specifications listed in 
Bert Kinzey’s F-14 Tomcat in Detail 
and Scalę and found it accurate. Scalę 
thicknesses, especially where molded 
parts are exposed edge-on, are also very 
close. 

Besides the minor fit problems. men- 
tioned earlier, my only complaint with 
the kit is the lack of molded detail on 
the instrument panels and consoles. 
True, the decals provided are nice, but 
why stop there when so much time has 
been devoted to detail on the rest of the 
kit? If I assembled this kit again, I 
would devote much morę time tó cock¬ 
pit details, including straps on the seats, 
scratchbuilt consoles and instrument 
panels, and oxygen hoses. 

I was particularly impressed with 
the overall level of detail on this kit, es¬ 
pecially the landing gear, wheel wells, 
ordnance, and ejection seats, and the 
excellent fit of the parts. Although I 
spent 100 hours on my model, it didn’t 
seem that long because of the ease with 
which the parts went together. For a 
model of this size and number of parts, 
everything fit like a glove, and I’d rec- 
ommend this kit to a friend, as long as 
he had some modeling experience un- 
der his belt. Larry Schramm 


Kit: No. PK-176, Char B.1 bis and Re¬ 
nault FT.17 tanks 
Scalę: 1/76 

Manufacturer: Matchbox, Lesney 

Products P.L.C., London, England 
Price: $5.50. 

THIS KIT PROVIDES parts to build 
two early French tanks: a tiny 6.8-ton 
Renault FT.17 of WWI and a between- 
the-wars design, the Char B.l bis. Both 
vehicles saw some service in the early 
days of WWII. Parts are also included 
to build a simple, 2 W' x 7 W' setting de- 
picting a road and a ruined building. 

The kit is madę of styrene and has 
rubber tracks. Matchbox likes to mold 
its kits in some of the basie colors that 
the vehicle or piane would have been 
painted, and in this kit the bulk of the 
superstructure parts are olive green, 
with the suspension in ochrę. The flexi- 
ble track is steel-colored, and the four 
figures, road, and ruins are brown. The 
five sprues contain 81 parts. The decal 
sheet measures 3" x 3" and is printed in 
white, red, and blue. 

I consider the parts above average. 
Surface detail is crisp, delicate, and re- 
alistic. Most mold marks are on the in- 
side surfaces of the parts. 

The four pages of instructions in- 
clude 21 steps illustrated with drawings 
and sketches. The painting instructions 
are extremely detailed, with three sets 



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of top, side, front, and back views for 
each tank. The color artwork on the 
back of the box supplements the black- 
and-white drawings and painting keys, 
so the instructions are better than most 
concerning painting information. 

I built the kit according to the in¬ 
structions, with the sole exception of 
painting the mufflers separately before 
adding them to the tanks. (Mufflers 
tended to rust and scorch badly, and I 
didn’t want to paint them the same col- 
ors as the hulls.) A few light mold 
marks on the guns, mufflers, tools, and 
handrails must be sanded off. The only 
minor problem I encountered was in 
gluing parts 4 and 6, the front fenders, 
to the Char hull. If you don’t align 
these pieces correctly, you’ll have trou- 
ble sliding the tracks into place. 

The fit of all parts was excellent with 
the exception of the commander’s seat 
hatch on the Char. After gluing it in 
place, I noted a gap which I filled by 
painting it with white glue. I also had 
to do a smali amount of sanding on 
some of the joints in the Renault turret. 
The tracks on the Renault must be 
glued to the return rollers on top of the 
suspension system to keep them from 
bulging up. I also drilled out all gun 
barrels. 

I don’t have any documentation on 
these tanks, so I don’t know how close 


the models are to scalę. The overall 
proportions are good, and the 
thicknesses of most parts appear cor¬ 
rect, although I did replace the Char’s 
antenna (which was about as thick as 
the 47 mm gun) with a piece of 
stretched sprue. For scalę reference 
materiał I used Profile No. 36, AFV 
Weapons on the Char’s Hotchkiss, H-35 
and H-39, and Somua S35. The Somua 
used the same turret as the Char; other 
components also appear similar. 


These models are among the best 1/76 
or 1/72 armored vehicles that I have 
built. I particularly like the realistic 
appearance of the tracks and the lock- 
ing feature which allows them to be 
joined securely. I spent 10 hours build- 
ing the two tanks, which I ratę as about 
average for me for this scalę vehicle, 
and I think even a beginner with only a 
few kits under his belt could turn this 
kit into a pair of attractive early armor 
models. Dennis Moore 



Kit: No. 1187, Lockheed SR-71A 

Blackbird 

Scalę: 1/72 

Manufacturer: Hasegawa, imported 
by Minicraft Models Inc., 1510 West 
228th St., Torrance, CA 90501 
Price: $8.00. 

THE SR-71 is a fascinating subject, 
and lately it seems as though every 
manufacturer in the modeling field has 
decided to offer a kit of it. Hasegawa’s 
version is certainly among the better 
ones. 

The kit is molded in black styrene 
and consists of only 43 parts on two 
sprues. Most of the fuselage and wing 
is composed of only two pieces, upper 
and lower. In addition, there is a sim- 
ple cockpit assembly, the undercar- 
riage assembly, and fore and aft engine 
assemblies. Most panel lines are 
raised, and the corrugated skin panels 
on the wings are accurately repre- 
sented. Smali parts are detailed and to 
scalę. I compared the parts to the pic- 
tures of the SR-71 A in the October 


1974 issue of Air International and 
they match up nicely. 

The elear parts were also well 
molded, but had scruffed areas that I 
polished out with Blue Magie metal 
polish cream (Blue Magie, P. O. Box 
3145, Long Beach, CA 90803). The 
T/a x 3 / 2 " decal sheet was printed in 
red, white, green, yellow, and black. 

The instructions consist of four pages 
measuring 8!4" x 11". There are eight 
construction steps, each illustrated 
with a drawing, one photo of the fin- 
ished model, and a detailed three-view 
drawing that shows where to place all 


decals. The painting directions are es- 
pecially well done, and they include the 
FS (Federal Standard 595a) numbers 
for the reąuired colors as well as an ad- 
dress for obtaining an FS color chip 
book. A brief history of the piane is pro- 
vided and the correct color of each part 
is listed. 

Assembly is easy. I found smali 
amounts of flash on the tip of the taił 
and shoulder of the wing, and I had to 
remove mold marks from the edge of 
the upper half of the fuselage and wing 
piece. There were also some heavy 
mold marks on the wheel well doors 


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Fali 1982 


13 



























which had to be sanded off. I deviated 
from the instructions by adding the 
nose assembly after applying the de- 
cals. I was afraid of Jbreaking the nose 
probe. 

The openings of the air intakes did 
not fit well and so I had to putty them; 
the same is true of the taił. The two 
vertical stabilizers have smali gaps un- 
der them that can be closed by painting 
white glue into the seam. 


Kit: No. 682, McDonnell Douglas RF- 
4C or E Phantom II 
Scalę: 1/72 

Manufacturer: Italeri, imported by The 
Testor Corporation, 620 Buckbee St., 
Rockford, IL 61101 
Price: $6.00. 

THIS PHOTO RECON version of the 
Phantom II is the first truły new 1/72 
scalę model of the F-4 to come along in 
ąuite some time. There are 63 parts on 
three sprues, all but a few of them 
crisply molded in green styrene of aver- 
age hardness. 

The nose section is molded separately 
from the fuselage, which would seem to 
indicate plans for another version with 
common parts later on. The rest of the 
fuselage and cockpit follow normal kit 
design. The wing section consists of 
three pieces and attaches to the bottom 
of the fuselage. Optional parts are pro- 
vided for the C and E yariants, along 
with spare components for items that 
differ among the American, Japanese, 
and German air forces. The panel lines 
are raised and ąuite delicate, as are 
most other surface details. 

The smali parts, including the cock¬ 
pit parts, are nicely detailed. However, 
the elear parts are less satisfactory. 
They have scratch-like flaws molded 
into the plastic that are visible at close 
rangę, and the surface of the canopy in- 
cludes minor distortions. 

The kit includes a 4'/2" x 4 / 2 " sheet of 
Microscale decals printed in red, black, 
blue, white, and yellow that furnishes 
markings for a West German or Japa¬ 
nese RF-4E or a U. S. Air Force RF-4C. 
Unfortunately, the box photo shows de¬ 
cals on the consoles next to the pilot’s 
and navigator’s seats, which are miss- 
ing from the sheet. Page 36 of the Jan¬ 
uary 1980 Air International shows the 
nose of Luftwaffe RF-4E from Aufkl. 6- 


The completed model scales out ex- 
actly in the major dimensions of 
wingspan, length, and height, and 
scalę thicknesses of all parts were fine 
except for the canopies (a purist might 
want to replace them with vacuum- 
formed parts). Overall detail is excel- 
lent, and if I were to assemble this kit 
again all I would add is seat belts, a 
throttle, and Kristal-Kleer lights. 

The least satisfactory part of this kit 
was the decal sheet, which provides 
markings for three planes of the 9th 
Strategie Reconnaissance Wing, Beale 
AFB, California. Although they are 
well printed, very detailed, and settle 
nicely using the Microscale system, 
they have a horrible bluish adhesive. 
After soaking each decal section from 
its backing I had to hołd the film on my 
finger while wiping off the adhesive. 
This was time-consuming and tricky, 
but necessary so that the adhesive 



would not cloud all the elear areas of 
the decals. 

This kit rates high marks for its ex- 
cellent detail and the delicate molding 
of its smali parts. All in all, it’s an easy 
aireraft kit to build — it took me 14V2 
hours, but the decals accounted for about 
2 hours of that — and were it not for 
the adhesive problem with the decals I 
would gladly recommend this kit to a 
beginner. Dennis Moore 



51 with a diving bird of prey on the 
nose and another bird marking on the 
intake baffle; these also are missing 
from the sheet. 

There are 12 W x 11" pages of in¬ 
structions, and they are among the 
most detailed I have seen. Included are 
a brief history, specifications, bibliog- 
raphy, detailed painting instructions 
with FS numbers, weathering hints, 
four photos, decaling instructions, and 
three pages of three-view drawings of 
the American, West German, and Jap¬ 
anese versions of the piane. The box art 
provides a total of 10 color photos of 
models built in the U. S. and German 
schemes. 

Although the eight-step assembly se- 
ąuence is excellent, I would make the 
following minor suggestions. The cam¬ 
era Windows in the nose, although well 
molded, are bunched in the area of four 
major seams. Unless you want to go 
crazy masking and polishing out sand- 
ing scratches, I suggest substituting 
Micro Kristal-Kleer for the elear parts. 

The overall fit of the parts was excel- 
lent except in the nose area and around 
the air scoops; you also will have a lit- 


tle filling to do under the wing in the 
fold seam. To ensure a snug fit along 
the fuselage, sand down the air chan- 
nel triangle that parts Nos. 25 and 33 
are glued over. To prevent breakage, 
don’t glue the nose probe on until the 
kit is finished. I added the landing gear 
and wing tanks after painting. 

It took me 14 hours to complete the 
kit, including painting. The model com- 
pares favorably with the specifications 
given in the instruction sheet, and in 
areas where molded parts are exposed 
edge-on the appearance is generally ex- 
cellent. The most unsatisfactory part of 
the kit was the canopy, which could 
have been molded better. I had planned 
to build the model with the canopy 
open, but discovered that it did not 
come with hinges. There are gaps in 
the cockpit between the seat-floor as¬ 
sembly and the fuselage sides, and if I 
assembled this kit again, I would detail 
the cockpit and add missing markings 
wherever possible. 

This is a fine model of a popular air¬ 
eraft, and the kit stands up well when 
compared to other recent Italeri re- 
leases. Dennis Moore. 


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P-51 Mustang, good formodeiler 
Focke Wulf. FwI90. much color 
Zero Fighter. color fold out pgs 
Spitfire. large format, detailed 
Messerschmitt 8 f 109. color drw 
Hellcat. structural/cockpit detail 


Flying Tigers 


Hellcat F 6 F m WWII. 228 pgs 
Winged Maiesty BI 7. Birdsall 
F 86 Sabre In Color 
MiG Master F 8 Crusader . 

III. History of The Fighter 
Escort to Berlin. 300 photos 
Stuka At Wa/ 

Luftwaffe Test Pilot. Lerche 
Mosquito. Piet. Hist. DH 98 
Mess. Me262. Boyne 
The Mel09. Harleyford Pub 
Excaliber II P51. Smithsoman 
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Junker$287 
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over 200 insigma. 190 pho¬ 
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FSM LOOKS AT NEW PRODUCTS 


FINESCALE MODELER Staff photos 
by A. L. Schmidt 



Polyester filier pastę 

Ad-Tech Ultra-Filler No. 14 is a two- 
part filier putty (one pint of filier and 
one ounce of cream hardener) that sets 
in 5 to 8 minutes and that can be ap- 
plied in thick or thin layers to almost 
any rigid surface (test on a scrap before 
using on styrene). The cans are dated 
with the month and year of manufac- 
ture; Ad-Tech claims a shelf life of one 
year if the materiał is stored in a cool 
place. The one-pint package is avail- 
able from Mail-Call Models, 1525 West 
MacArthur Boulevard, No. 20, Costa 
Mesa, CA 92626, for $7.95. 



Epoxy filier pastę 

Biggs Company, 612 East Franklin, 
El Segundo, CA 90245, manufactures 
an epoxy pastę which sets in 10 to 15 
minutes after eąual parts of resin and 
hardener are mixed. The pastę spreads 
easily and can fili even hairline cracks. 
The material’s special virtue is that it 
is thicker than ordinary epoxy glues (so 
does not run), but not as thick as epoxy 
putties. It is sold in packages that con- 
tain one each 2 l / 2 -ounce tubes of resin 
and hardener. The pastę is sold in many 
retail plumbing supply Stores or may 
be ordered from Biggs for $4.00 per 
package. 

16 FineScale Modeler 



Brass irwestment castings 

Cal-Scale, P. O. Box 475, Pinedale, 
CA 93650, has released the first of its 
Combat Series linę of 1/32 scalę brass 
castings. The items are: 

• CS-10, Browning .50 caliber M2HB 
heavy barrel air-cooled machinę gun, 
$4.95. 

• CS-11, Browning .30 caliber M1919A4 
air-cooled machinę gun, $3.95. 

• CS-12, Browning .30 caliber M1917A1 
water-cooled machinę gun, $3.95. 

• CS-13, M31 pedestal mount, $6.95. 

• CS-14, M24 pedestal mount, $2.75. 

• CS-15, M3 ring mount, $6.95. 

• CS t 16, pioneer tool rack, $3.95. 

• CS-17, cradle, pintle, and ammo box, 
$4.95. 


• CS-18, M2 .50 caliber ammo box with 
ammo belt, $2.95. 

Also available are kit No. 100, a .50 
caliber M2HB air-cooled machinę gun 
with tripod and ammo box, $14.75; and 
kit No. 102, a .30 caliber M1917A1 wa¬ 
ter-cooled machinę gun with tripod, cra¬ 
dle, and ammo box, $16.95. 

The items can be assembled with 
cyanoacrylate cement. 

Cal-Scale chose 1/32 scalę so that the 
guns and other accessories can be used 
on both 1/32 and 1/35 models. Although 
the parts are a little oversize for exact 
1/35, the manufacturer claims that larg- 
er than exact-scale accessories provide 
better visual balance. 



Enamel paints 

Precision Paints Company Ltd., P. O. 
Box 43, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, 
GL51 5HR, England, has introduced a 
linę of hobby enamels for pre-WWII 
British aircraft, WWII RAF aircraft 
and Royal Army eąuipment, Luftwaffe 
aircraft and German Army eąuipment, 
U. S. Army Air Force and U. S. Navy 
aircraft and U. S. Army eąuipment, and 
a linę of colors for contemporary RAF, 
NATO, U. S., Israeli, and Swedish air¬ 
craft. There are currently 174 colors 
available and all colors are claimed to 
match applicable national standards (for 
example, the U. S. colors are based on 
Federal Standard 595a) and the stan¬ 
dard numbers are printed on the cans. 


The colors rangę from fiat to duli 
(half-flat) to gloss, as appropriate, al¬ 
though the gloss paints are only about 
80 percent as glossy as the original 
standard. Precision claims that the low- 
er gloss is used to obtain the proper 
scalę effect on smali models. All colors 
come in ^-fluid ounce (15 ml) cans, 
priced at £ 0.28. 

If you want a color that is not yet in 
the linę or a color mixed to match your 
sample, the firm States it may be able 
to custom blend the paint for you. 

Precision has not yet announced a 
U. S. distributor for these paints, nor 
U. S. prices, so modelers should write 
directly to Precision for a list of colors 
and other information. 















Painting booth 

Mitchell Products, Inc., 421 North 
Lakę Street, Highway 45, Mundelein, 
IL 60060, has released the Hobby Vent 
painting booth and a linę of Hobby 
Vent accessories. The basie booth is 
madę of 26-gauge galvanized Steel and 
measures 12" high by Yl x /% wide by 12" 
deep. It comes with a Dayton 120-VAC 
motor and fan with 95-CFM capacity, 
and a HP/a" Rubbermaid turntable. The 
price is $125.00. 

Accessories include a 2-stage light- 
ing set for illumination and heat treat- 
ing (No. 107, $46.50), an expansion kit 
that approximately doubles the size of 
the booth (No. 102, $18.50), an expan- 
sion kit cover (No. 102-5, $7.25) that 
fits over the front of the expansion kit 
enabling the booth to be used as a dust- 
free drying chamber, a 125-degree ther- 
mostat (No. 107-6, $12.25) for use with 
the lighting/heating set, a 140-degree 
thermostat (No. 107-8, $12.25), and a 
set of metal vent pipes and couplers 
(No. 111, $17.50). An automatic timer 
(No. 125, $24.25) is also available. The 
unit shown consists of the basie unit, 
the expansion kit, and a lighting set. 

An instruction sheet explains instal- 
lation and maintenance. 

Reinforced cutoff wheels 

Dremel, P. O. Box 518, Racine, WI 
53406, has introduced the No. 426 cut¬ 
off wheel for use with Dremel mandrel 
No. 402 and any high-speed motor tool 
or flexible shaft. The wheels are l 1 //' in 
diameter and about y hi thick; they con- 
sist of an abrasive materiał bonded 
with resin and reinforced by fiberglass. 
The retail price per pack of four wheels 
is $4.95. 

The wheel cuts tempered steel, musie 



wire, brass tubing, aluminum sheet, 
pine, and styrene; a test wheel showed 
little wear after morę than an hour’s 
constant use. The new wheels perform 
at least as well as the Dremel No. 409 
emery cutting wheel and are safer be- 
cause they are far less likely to fly 
apart. 



STREAMLINED 


STRUT STOCK 



1/48 and 1/72 streamlined strut stock 

Pegasus Model Products, Inc., 10221 
Slater Avenue, Suitę 118, Fountain Val- 
ley, CA 92708, offers packages of 2Vi 
lengths of streamlined styrene molded 
plastic strut materiał suitable for 1/48 
and 1/72 model aireraft. A package con- 
tains two frames, each with four sizes 
of struts. The struts are approximately 
one-third as thick as they are wide. 
Each package costs $1.98. 

Landscaping materials 

Life-Like Products, Inc., Baltimore, 
MD 21211, has introduced its linę of 
SceneMaster ground foam, lichen, and 
rock landscaping materials for diora- 
mas. There are seven kinds of ground 
foam for simulating bare earth and 
grass and other vegetation; these rangę 


AUGMENTABLES 

in PLASTIC ^ . 

by fyicuidt 

HINCES •• NUTS, BOLTS •• QUEENPOSTS 
EYEBOLTS •• ROODINC •• TURNBUCKLES 
SHIP CRATINC 

Se od 50C and SSAE for Augmentable* Flyer 

1040 B SHARY CT, CONCORD, CA 94518 



ouse 


KCC is a bi-monthly publication 
of ads and info on collectable 
plastic kits and related items. 
Pictures of rare kit box art and 
early neYs of n.ew and re-issued 
kits are included. Send $1.00 
for current issue and subscrip- 
tion in forma tion. | 

JOHN W. BURNS • 3213 HARDY DR • EDMOND, OKLA. 73034 I 


VPZ. 

CANADAA 


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yacuforms 


BORED? 
TRY THESE! 


Beriev Be-2 (KOR-1) 1937 Russian seaplane 
Blohm 6 Voss BV-40 WW2 glider fighter 
Bereznyak-Isaev BI WW2 Russian rocket fighter 
Avia BH-21 1925 Czech biplane fighter 
Avia B-634 1936 Czech biplane fighter 
lavochkin LaGC-3 NW2 Russian fighter 
Messerschmitt Me-163A rocket research fighter 
Avia BM-3 1922 Czech monoplane fighter 

Send for newsletter. DEALER INQUIR1ES INYITEP. 
Payment in US dollars. POSTFREE. 

VICT0R1A PkODUCTS, DEPT. F, 930 Foul Bay Road 
Yictoria, B.C., Canada, V8S 4H8 


$6.95 

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MODELERSH! 

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• F-4 Phantom II, Part I 

• B-17 Flyi ng Fortress, Part I 

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Fali 1982 17 













































ATTENTION 
PLASTIC MODEL 
BUILOERS 




srace,AG E 
Pla *I!. C der 

Makes Plastic Cement 
a Thing of The Past! 

One Drop Welds a Seam, FAST! 

50 CENTS Postage and Handling 

DEALER INOUIRIES WELCOME 

SENDNOW!- 


R.H. HEBNER DIST. □ $2.00 Enclosed I 

P.O. Box AH Dept 1 I 

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NAME. 


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in size from very fine texture (less than 
0.01") to fairly coarse (approximately 
0.1") and in color from light gray to dark 
green. The lichen is dyed green and may 
be used to model shrubs and trees. There 
are also light gray and dark rocks with a 
grain size about 0.03", and a black rock 
to simulate coal. The ground foam and 
lichen are packaged in 18-cubic-inch 
plastic bags, the rocks in 14-ounce bags. 
Ali are priced at $1.25 per bag. 



Plastic rod 

Grandt Linę, 1040 B Shary Court, 
Concord, CA 94518, offers styrene rod 
from Slater’s of England in packages of 
12 one-foot lengths. Diameters avail- 
able are 0.010", 0.020", 0.030", 0.040", 
and 0.050". Each package costs $2.50. 

Modeling miter 

Kalee, Inc., 2041 Winnetka Avenue, 
North Minneapolis, MN 55427, offers a 
Lexan modeling miter that features a 
714" x 7 1 / 2 " cutting surface. The tool can 
cut any angle up to 60 degrees in 5-de- 
gree increments, plus 2214 degrees. It 
uses ordinary single-edge razor blades or 
Zona razor saw blades, and has a slide 
stop for use when cutting many pieces 
of the same length. The miter cuts 
wood, plastic, and brass and aluminum 
tubing. The price is $21.95. 



Epoxy putty 

Woodhill Permatex division of Loc- 
tite Corporation, Cleveland, OH 44128, 
has introduced Duro Hobby Strip epoxy 
adhesive and filier. This is a ribbon 
containing eąual parts of white and 
green resins, which are kneaded for a 
few seconds until the materiał turns a 
uniform gray. The kneaded filier has 
the consistency of modeling clay and 
can be used to build figures, fili gaps, or 
bond wood, metal, plastic, and most 
other materials. Duro claims a ten- 
minute cure time for this epoxy; the 
materiał can be drilled, carved, sanded, 
and painted. A 0.7-ounce package is 
$2.89. 



18 FineScale Modeler 

































From the editor 


TfflS MAGAZINE is the Charter Is- 
sue — Volume One, Number One — of 
FineScale Modeler, and Fm very 
happy to report that we’re sending it 
your way far sooner than anyone had 
anticipated. Your enthusiastic response 
to our Spring 1982 test issue, published 
last January, convinced us that there is 
a definite need for a new magazine on 
the modeling scene. In mid-March we 
announced that FSM would be launched 
as a ąuarterly publication, and I sin- 
cerely hope that we’ll be able to in- 
crease the freąuency to bimonthly, per- 
haps even monthly, before long. 

Starting any kind of new project is 
exciting, but starting this one is doubly 
so, because with it we hope to introduce 
a whole new standard of ąuality in a 
modeling magazine. The kinds of arti- 
cles and columns we’ve planned are in- 
tended to open up the broad field of 
scalę modeling, to show you what oth- 
ers are doing — and, morę important, 
ho w they are doing it — and to spark 
your own imagination and creativity. 

Each issue of FSM will bring you a 
fuli helping of fine modelwork and in- 
teresting, readable articles, but morę 
than that, each issue will bring you de- 
tailed information on techniąues you 
can put to work in your own modeling 
projects. In fact, we plan to make FSM 
into a new kind of tool, a tool that you 
can use to keep abreast of modeling 
trends and the dozens of new products 
being introduced in an ever-changing 
marketplace. 

An emphasis on new product report- 
ing is a large part of the difference be- 
tween our Spring test issue and the 
magazine you no w hołd in your hands. 
You’ll find — if you haven’t already 
found them — four columns devoted to 
what’s new: FSM Update (page 4), FSM 


Workbench Reviews (page 10), FSM 
Looks at New Products (page 16), and 
FSM Book Briefs (page 60). 

Each column takes a slightly differ- 
ent approach: Update lists new kit re- 
leases, new tools, and other product an- 
nouncements, Workbench Reviews re- 
ports in depth on a modeler’s expe- 
rience in assembling or using a new 
item, FSM Looks at New Products cov- 
ers those things that are best described 
with a photograph, and Book Briefs 
lists new offerings in reference materi- 
als. I hope you’11 enjoy all of them. 

We plan to introduce morę new col¬ 
umns in subseąuent issues of FSM, and 
I’d like to hear what you’d like to see in 
them, as well as what kind of feature 
articles you want. I appreciate your 
feedback, and as I promised last time, 
Fil read and answer every letter. Let 
me hear from you. 

There simply isn’t room here to tell 
you about all the fine feature articles 
we have planned for coming issues of 
FSM, but Fd like to ask for your help 
with one of them. Early next year we 
plan a staff review of all the various 
materials that modelers use as fillers, 
entitled "The Search for the Perfect 
Filier Putty.” I want that review to be 
as complete as possible, so please send 
me a postcard with the brand name of 
your favorite filier and the address of 
its manufacturer. If you use a home- 
brewed filier, how about sharing your 
recipe with the rest of us? 




KEXT 

ISSUE 


FEATURES 



Steve Załoga’s 1/35 scalc Russłan T-60 scout tank. 

Armor expert Steve Załoga re- 
tums in the Winter issue with a 
scratchbuilding project for be- 
ginners. The subject is a diminu- 
tive Russian T-60 scout tank in 
1/35 scalę, and Steve’s article in- 
cludes superb scalę drawings and 
full-size templates. Prizewinning 
modeler Dennis Moore also re- 
turas, this time with techniąues 
for building elear acrylic display 
cases for any model. And, even if 
you have never built a diorama, 
you will be able to follow FSM’s 
step-by-step instructions on basie 
diorama techniąues to come up 
with a magnificent display! 

DATA/DRAWINGS 



Spltfirc Mk. 1A renderings by Ken Sommcrficld. 

Modeler Ken Sommerfield spent 
morę than a year researching the 
story behind the Spitfire Mk.lA 
that resides in Chicago’s Museum 
of Science and Industry. The re- 
sult is a striking set of full-color 
renderings, and enough data for 
you to to model the Supermarine 
Spitfire Mk. 1A in any scalę! 


ALL L\ T 
WINTER 
FSM! 




































Posing and painting 
“The Fez Seller” 

A dramatic two-figure vignette built from 
Airfix 1/32 scalę multi-pose figures 



This photo by Lane Stewart, all others by the author 


“It is most complimentary, sir!” The scene 
is Cairo in 1882, and the subject is sales- 
manship: A kilted Highlander of the leg- 
endary Black Watch tries on a fez while a 
robed Egyptian furnishes the hard sell. 



Both figures are extensive conversions, 
but the techniques used to make their gar- 
ments differ. (Middle) The Highlander’s 
kilt, pouch, and the all-important fez were 
formed from epoxy putty, while the Egyp- 
tian’s simple robe-like gallabiya (above) 
was madę from glue-soaked facial tissue. 


BY JOE BERTON 


I N 1882, using the excuse of safe- 
guarding the Suez Canal, the Brit- 
ish occupied Egypt. Their occupation 
lasted, in one form or another, for over 
seventy years, and in addition to reor- 
ganizing the government, during that 
period the British Army interacted and 
interfered with the Egyptian society in 
many ways. 

Such interplay between Western and 
Middle Eastern cultures is the subject 
of my two-figure vignette, "The Fez 
Seller.” The scene is Cairo, the datę 
perhaps October 1882, just one hun- 
dred years ago, soon after the Battle of 
Tel-el-Kebir where the Black Watch so 
distinguished themselves in annihilat- 
ing the Egyptian Army. Somewhere 
among the brass and leather shops in 
the crowded, winding streets of Khan- 
el-Khalili a private of the Black Watch 
is checking his good looks by trying on 
a fez, the popular headgear of the Otto- 
man Empire. The Highlander has the 
fez pushed back on his head, daintily 
adjusting it, while a white-robed native 
(doubtless the nineteeth-century equiv- 
alent of a used-car salesman) hovers 
over him and assists with a smali hand 
mirror. 

Both figures are conversions based 
on Airfix multi-pose and Tamiya WWII 
figurę parts. Some modelers may find it 
hard to envision just ho w the jaunty 
Highlander and the robed Egyptian fel- 
lah were pieced together from parts of 
Afrika Korps, desert rats, and tank 
commander figures, but that’s the way 
I did it. If you haven’t tried a figurę 
conversion, the Airfix sets are rela- 
tively inexpensive and a good way to 
learn. 

Sorting figurę parts. Each Airfix mul¬ 
ti-pose set includes six soldiers with 
separate heads, arms, bodies, and legs. 
The parts are well sculpted, anatomi- 
cally speaking, and (to me at least) lack 
the stiffness that typifies Historex fig¬ 
ures. Over the years I’ve purchased 
several different sets and sorted all the 
heads into one box, right arms into an¬ 


other, and so forth until I built up an 
impressive "morgue” of body parts that 
offers me almost unlimited conversion 
possibilities. Figures 1 and 2 show the 
parts used for "The Fez Seller.” 

I draw upon the sorted figurę parts to 
assemble basie figurę armatures, and 
given the wide variety of positions avail- 
able in the Airfix sets little cutting and 
bending is reąuired. I start by concen- 
trating on the pose I want for each fig¬ 
urę, then experiment. It’s important to 
pay careful attention to anatomy and 
to evaluate the pose in terms of what 
does and doesn’t look right, because if a 
figurę looks strange and mispropor- 
tioned as a naked armaturę, it will still 
look strange and misproportioned after 
it’s dressed, primed, and painted. 

Once Fm pleased with the pose of the 
basie figurę armaturę, I assemble its 
parts, let the joints dry, and scrape off 
all the uniform details using a model- 
ing knife and a motor tool. Next, I fili 
the major joints between parts with 
Testor’s body putty. At this point the 
figurę is basically a naked version of 
the finished piece, ready to be dressed, 
Fig. 3. 

Dressing the Highlander. 1 clothed 
the Highlander figurę with garments 
madę from two materials: A -I- B epoxy 
putty and Testor’s body putty. A + B 
putty is one of several two-part epoxy 
doughs used in the plumbing trade. It 
comes in the form of two foil-wrapped 
bars, and when eąual portions of each 
bar are kneaded together the|resulting 
putty has the consistency of modeling 
clay and will air-dry hard in a couple of 
hours. I apply the putty with a rounded 
sculpting tool (a dowel that has been 
tapered to a point in a pencil sharp- 
ener, then rounded and smoothed with 
sandpaper will do), and smooth it with 
water. Details can be sculpted in easily 
with the pointed tool or a modeling 
knife. 

The kilt and sporran (the purse-like 
pouch) are epoxy putty. After building 
up the basie form of the kilt, Fig. 4, I 
added the pleats in the back, Fig. 5, by 
pushing the fiat edge of my modeling 
knife blade into the soft putty at par- 


20 FineScale Modeler 






Head 

Airfix multi-pose British 
8th Army part No. 21 

Left arm 

Airfix multi-pose British 
8th Army part No. 24 

Right arm 

Airfix multi-pose British 
8th Army part No. 18 

Body 

Airfix multi-pose British 
8th Army part No. 27 

Legs 

Tamiya Military Com- 
mand Figurę set part 
No. A2 


FIG.1 EGYPTIAN FEZ SELLER 



FIG. 2 HIGHLANDER 


Head 

Airfix multi-pose British 
8th Army part No. 16 

Left arm 

Airfix multi-pose German 
Afrika Korps part No. 3 

Right arm 

Airfix multi-pose German 
Afrika Korps part No. 24 

Body 

Airfix multi-pose British 
8th Army part No. 2 

Right leg 

Airfix multi-pose German 
Afrika Korps part No. 15, 
right leg only 

Left leg 

Airfix multi-pose German 
Afrika Korps part No. 5, 
left leg only 


allel and eąual distances. This was an 
easy and effective way of dealing with 
what I had thought would be an unusu- 
ally difficult bit of modeling. I then fin- 
ished the kilt by trimming the bottom 
edge (hemming, I guess you could cali 
it) with the knife. 

The doublet and stockings were built 
up with Testor’s body putty, Fig. 6. 
How you apply this putty is important. 
I sąueeze smali amounts onto an index 
card, then use a No. 2 brush moistened 
with Testor’s liąuid plastic cement to 
thin and apply it. Because the smali 
brush and the plastic cement allow 
greater control over the consistency and 
workability of the putty, it’s easy to fili 



Fig. 3. The basie armaturę for the Egyptian 
after the parts were cemented, scraped, 
and the gaps filled with putty. The dark 
plastic legs are from a Tamiya figurę, but 
the rest of the parts are Airfix. 


gaps and build up wrinkles and folds. 

“Liquid sprue.” The body putty re- 
quires about a day to dry thoroughly, 
then it can be trimmed and sanded. 
Next, I gave the figurę a light coating 
of what I cali "liąuid sprue.” I make 
this handy goop by dissolving bits of 
sprue in a bottle of liąuid cement. It 
takes a while for the solvent to dissolve 
the plastic, but when the mixture has 
the consistency of Elmer’s Glue-All I 
brush it lightly over the built-up putty 
parts to give them a thin, smooth plas¬ 
tic coating. 

The Highlander’s belting was madę 
from white writing paper coated with 
Elmer’s Glue-All. First I trim the paper 



Fig. 4. The first step in forming the High- 
lander s kilt was to add a large, smooth 
band of epoxy putty to the basie, scraped- 
down figurę armaturę. 


to the right width and brush it lightly 
with water to make it pliable. Then I 
place a dot of ElmeFs on the figurę at 
each end of the belt, lay the damp pa¬ 
per in place, and hołd it there for a 
minutę or two. Finally, I brush Elmer’s 
over the entire belt to make it hołd its 
shape. 

By the way, in modeling belting (or 
anything else, for that matter) it’s im¬ 
portant that you understand what you 
are trying to make. To the uninitiated, 
the belts on a figurę often look like a 
tangled mess of buckles and straps, but 
each one starts somewhere, goes some- 
where, and has a purpose. Always study 
reference materiał until you have a 



Fig. 5. Pleats were pressed into the back 
of the epoxy kilt with a No. 11 hobby knife 
blade. The fez and sporran, or pouch, 
were also madę from epoxy putty. 


Fali 1982 21 






















Fig. 6. The Highlander s jacket and stock- 
ings were formed from thinned Testor s 
body putty, applied with a brush. To seal 
them before painting, these parts were 
coated with a dissolved plastic solution 
that the author calls “liquid sprue.” 

elear understanding of just what it is 
that you’re out to model, then go to it. 

I completed the Highlander with a 
canteen and eąuipment pouches formed 
from epoxy putty, epaulets madę from 
paper, and buttons cut salami-style from 
stretched sprue. 

Facial tissue for the fellah. I posed 
the Egyptian, a fellah , or peasant, by 
literally assembling the parts around 
the Highlander, Figs. 7 and 8, so the 
figures would have the proper dramatic 
relationship to one another. The legs 
came from a Tamiya U. S. Command 
set; the rest of the parts are Airfix. 
After assembly the posed armaturę was 
scraped down until it was basically a 
nudę figurę. I built up the nose, beard, 


balgha (heelless slippers), and lebda 
(headdress) using thinned body putty. 

Other than his pose, the most impor- 
tant aspect of the fellah is his robe-like 
garment, a gallabiya, which is not a 
robę at all but a wide-sleeved, collar- 
less shirt that falls to the ankles. 1 
madę this from Kleenex facial tissue 
and Elmer’s Glue-All, employing a tech- 
nique that has numerous applications 
in figurę modeling. 

First, I studied the figurę carefully to 
see how the gallabiya should fit. 1 cut a 
piece of double-ply tissue to fit across 
the front of the figurę, covering the 
area between the waist and the knees. 
This apron-like section was brushed 
lightly with Elmer’s thinned with wa- 
ter, and the glue was also brushed onto 
the figurę where the tissue was to go. 
After positioning the tissue on the fig¬ 
urę I lightly brushed on morę thinned 
glue to give it morę body. 

By directing my brush strokes I in- 
troduced a few folds and wrinkles into 
this first tissue "apron,” but its main 
purpose was to serve as a base over 
which morę folds were added using 
body putty after the tissue and glue 
had dried. After shaping the front sec¬ 
tion I turned the figurę over and added 
a similar tissue piece across the backs 
of the legs. 

A key principle in working with wet 
tissue is to avoid doing too large an 
area at once. It is easier to break a gar¬ 
ment down into several smali tissue 
sections than to wrestle with a piece 
large enough to cover an entire robed 
figurę. Remember, too, that it’s easier 
to add folds later using putty than it is 
to make them by working and tugging 
at the glue-soaked tissue. 

After the overall shape of the drap- 
ery was formed I gave all the tissue 
areas of the figurę several morę coats of 
ElmeFs to stiffen the tissue and help 



Figs. 7 and 8. By far the most important element in the vignette is the relationship be¬ 
tween the two figures. To ensure the interplay would be right, the Egyptian armaturę 
was posed after the Highlander figurę was substantially complete. 


fili in its texture. Next I added folds 
with body putty, some of them stretch- 
ing from the shoulders to the hem. 
Once I was satisfied with the robę I 
gave it a thin coating of liąuid sprue 
solution. 

Priming and painting. Since there 
isn’t room here to cover painting tech- 
niąues in detail, Fil try to pass on a few 
important points. First, I consider it 
absolutely essential to eliminate all 
flaws, scratches, and gaps on converted 
figures before painting. A quick primer 
coat of white enamel invariably reveals 
such flaws so they can be corrected. 

Next, I underpainted portions of each 
figurę with a base coat of the actual col- 
ors to be used later — the skin area re- 
ceived a base coat of flesh, the cotton 
robę white, and so forth. On major 
areas such as the Egyptian’s robę I 
blocked in shadow areas as part of this 
base painting step, too. 

I finished the figures with Winsor & 
Newton oils, Plaka water-base paints, 
and Testor hobby enamels for the metal 
parts. Oils offer smoothness and ease of 
blending, and the Plaka colors were 
used for the patterned areas on the kilt 
and stockings because they dry quickly 
and correcting mistakes is easy. 

I have two tips that pertain to these 
specific figures: First, the Black Watch 
kilts are very dark plaid — many mod- 
elers paint them far too bright. If you 
use Plaka and the kilt turns out too 
bright, simply give it a light wash of 
black Plaka to darken it. Second, paint¬ 
ing a white garment like the gallabiya 
is easier and morę convincing if you ex- 
ercise great restraint in shadowing the 
white. It’s far better to err on the light 
side than to use heavy grays and black. 

Modeling an oriental rug. Since this 
vignette is set in the Middle East of the 
1880s, nothing could be better than ori¬ 
ental rugs on the base. The first prob¬ 
lem encountered in modeling rugs in 
miniaturę is capturing their texture. I 
rolled epoxy putty smoothly and thinly 
over the base, trimmed the edges, and 
while the putty was soft stretched a 
piece of T-shirt materiał over it and 
pressed in the texture. 

I painted the rugs with Plaka colors, 
then ground artisfs pastel chalk into 
fine powder and lightly brushed it over 
the rugs to add a warm and well-used 
look. The color photo on page 20 shows 
the result. I was careful to keep the rug 
pattern relatively simple so it wouldn’t 
overpower the figures; they must al- 
ways come first, and the base should 
only complement them. 

The last item I added was the Egyp- 
tian’s smali hand mirror. This was cut 
from a mirror-finish plastic sheet pur- 
chased at a dollhouse miniaturę shop. 

Thafs it for "The Fez Seller.” Did the 
fellah sell the fez to the Highlander? 
Hard to say, but perhaps you can an- 
swer the question by modeling your 
own version of this vignette. FSM 


22 FineScale Modeler 







FINESCALE MODELER: A. L. Schmidt 

Styrene parts, from left: a 1/35 scalę commander s cupola, a tile roof coping, and a boxcar door modified from a commercial part. 

Styrene parts from RTV molds 

The only exotic tooling is a toaster oven 


BY BOB HAYDEN 

A LL OF US occasionally need sev- 
i eral — or several dozen — identi- 
cal parts for a particular model or dio¬ 
rama. Over the years I’ve tried all kinds 
of casting materials, but for the past 
couple of months I’ve been experiment- 
ing with elear styrene beads. While 
this materiał isn’t the answer for every 
casting situation, it does offer signifi- 
cant advantages over other methods. 
To give credit where it’s due, I got the 
basie idea from a one-page article by 
Terry Metcalfe in a model railroad spe- 
cialty magazine, The Narrow Gauge & 
Short Linę Gazette. 

Making parts with this techniąue of- 


fers several advantages over casting 
with two-part epoxy or polyester mate¬ 
rials. First, the finished parts are sty¬ 
rene, so they can be joined with regular 
liguid cement and working with them 
is just like working with kit parts. Sec- 
ond, especially when the parts to be 
madę are smali, there’s no need to mix 
tiny batches of resin and hardener, and 
little materiał is wasted. The styrene 
pellets are inexpensive and have an 
unlimited shelf life, and because the 
most sophisticated item of eąuipment 
reąuired is an oven, this is a techniąue 
that anyone can use. 

Preparing the pattern. As long as 
it’s flat on one side the master pattern 
can be anything you like: scratchbuilt, 


converted from existing parts, or a 
piece from a kit that’s no longer avail- 
able. It should be something that you 
can’t easily mass-produce some other 
way, and it must not be undercut in 
such a way that it will be impossible to 
remove the finished part from the 
mold, Fig. 1. The one-sided reąuire- 
ment, by the way, is not as restrictive 
as you might think. Many parts only 
need detail on one side, and others can 
be madę as flat halves and cemented 
back-to-back. 

The pattern should be as perfect as 
you can make it, and in most cases it’s 
worth making two or three patterns 
and choosing the best, sińce any defect 
in the master will be duplicated in ev- 


FIG. 1 GOOD AND BAD DRAFT ANGLES 

The parts to be cast must have flat backs and should not 
have undercuts or hook-like projections. These cross-sec- 
tions will cast completely and the parts will come out of the 
mold. . . 




Fig. 2. Since the patterns must have a fiat back anyway, the 
easiest way to build them is on slabs of heavy styrene sheet. 


Fali 1982 23 















Fig. 3. The elear 1 "-high cofferdams 
around these patterns are extra styrene 
dividers from plastic parts drawers. 


ery casting. If a portion of your pattern 
is a kit part, be surę to fili sink holes 
and knockout-pin marks and remove 
all molding lines from it. If your pat¬ 
tern is hollow, fili or seal the cavity so 
that the RTV rubber can’t seep inside 
it, which would lock the pattern in the 
mold. 

Since the master must have a fiat 
back anyway, I build minę on a rectan- 
gle of .060" styrene or 0.10" ABS, Fig. 2, 
then add l"-high walls of the same ma¬ 
teriał to make a mold box, Fig. 3. I 
make surę that the mold box clears the 
master by at least %" on all sides. De- 
pending upon the shape of the pattern, 
the mold box could be madę round (you 
could use a plastic cup, or even a tin 
can), which would minimize the amount 
of rubber reąuired for the mold. 

Pouring the mold. The molds are 
madę from RTV (Room Temperaturę 
Vulcanizing) silicone rubber, an indus- 
trial materiał used for encapsulating 
electronic components, pouring gaskets, 
and, oddly enough, making molds, Fig. 
4. There are several brands, including 
General Electric RTV-11, Dow-Corning 
Silastic 3110 RTV, and the product I 
used, Castomold SR/P. Most have simi- 

CASTING MATERIALS 
RTV mold-making compounds: 

Castomold SR/P 
Castolite 

Dept. FS 182, P. 0. Box391 
Woodstock, IL 60098. 

(A 1-pound kit is $15.95, plus shipping.) 

Dow-Corning 3110 RTV 
Dow-Corning Corp. 

Midland, Ml 48640 

(Check your phone book or write and ask for the 
name and address of a local Dow-Corning dealer.) 

General Electric RTV 11 
General Electric Silicones 
RR4, Waterford, NY 12188 
(Check your phone book or write and ask for the 
name and address of a local General Electric Sili¬ 
cones dealer.) 

Styrene casting beads: 

“Makit & Bakit” refill kits 
Quincrahs 
40 Pond Park Road 
Hingham, MA 02043 

Styrene baking crystals 
Castolite 

Dept. FS 182, P. 0. Box 391 
Woodstock, IL 60098. 

(An 8-ounce package is $2.49, plus shipping.) 



Fig. 4. Materials for casting styrene parts: from left, a “Makit & Bakit” ornament kit; 
Castomold RTV rubber and hardener; and elear, untinted styrene baking crystals. 


lar working properties. Shelf life for all 
these rubbers is about a year, so it’s 
best to purchase the smallest ąuantity 
that will meet your immediate needs. 
The shelf life can be extended by stor- 
ing the unused rubber in a refrigerator 
or freezer. 

Unless part of the pattern is RTV, no 
release agent is reąuired to keep the 
rubber from sticking to the pattern and 
mold box. To make a mold, mix the 
RTV in accordance with its instruc- 
tions and allow the mixture to rest 
undisturbed for 20 minutes so most 
bubbles rise to the top and pop. Then, 
using an inexpensive disposable brush, 
work a thin coat of RTV over the pat¬ 
tern, Fig. 5. I like to force this initial 
rubber coat into the cracks and crevices 
of the pattern with a stream of com- 
pressed air from an airbrush. Then 
pour the rest of the RTV into the mold 
box and set it aside to cure for 24 hours, 
Fig. 6. 

Don’t try to skimp on the amount of 
rubber used to make the mold; it’s best 
to fili the mold box to its fuli 1" depth. 
In fact, it’s better to make the mold too 



thick than too thin, sińce a thin mold 
may flex during casting and yield de- 
formed parts, and a thicker mold will 
stand up to heat better than a thin one. 
If you didn’t mix enough RTV to fili the 
mold box on the first pour mix up a sec- 
ond batch and pour it on top of the first; 
the two batches will bond as one. 

Most RTVs take 24 hours to cure, 
and a good indication that the rubber 
has cured fully is that the exposed sur- 
face of the mold is no longer sticky. To 
remove the cured mold from the pat¬ 
tern, first strip the sides off the mold 
box, then carefully flex the mold and 
separate the master from the RTV. In- 
spect the mold cavity for defects and 
use a new single-edge razor blade to 
trim away the raised lip of rubber where 
the back of the mold met the walls of 
the mold box. This is so the upside 
down mold can sit perfectly fiat during 
casting, Fig. 7. 

Casting with styrene beads. The 

most readily available source of elear 
styrene beads in smali ąuantities is a 
crafts storę, where you can buy a refill 
package of the colored plastic cooking 



Figs. 5 and 6. To ensure there will be no bubbles trapped in the face of the mold, first 
brush a thin coat of RTV over the pattern with a disposable brush (left), inspect for bub¬ 
bles, then pour in the rest of the rubber to fili the mold box (right). 


24 FineScale Modeler 





Fig. 7. These completed RTV molds were 
stained by attempts to cast parts from 
chopped-up sprue. The elear styrene bak- 
ing crystals yielded better results. 



Fig. 8. The cupola moid piled high with sty¬ 
rene beads prior to baking. 

crystals supplied in "Makit & Bakit” 
suncatcher ornament kits. These col- 
ored beads are intended to be heaped 
into a cast-metal framework and baked 
for 15-25 minutes until the pellets melt, 
giving the finished ornament a trans¬ 
parent, stained-glass look. 

How well the molten styrene flows 
into the mold depends upon the shape 
and depth of the mold cavity. Some 
molds will cast well if you simply heap 
beads over the cavity, Fig. 8, and place 
the mold in an oven preheated to 375 
degrees F., the temperaturę called for 
in the "Makit & Bakit” instructions. As 
the styrene pellets reach their melting 
point, just above 230 degrees F., they 
become gel-like and slowly relax into 
the mold. After 15-25 minutes in the 
oven the mold can be removed, allowed 
to cool, and the finished part popped 
out. 

The finished castings can be filed, 
sanded, drilled, and painted like any 
plastic kit part. Minor imperfections 
can be filled with your favorite putty. 
The plastic is just a little harder than 
that found in most kits, about the same 



Fig. 10. These parts were madę using the 
heated-weight injection technique. The 
flash will be removed by sanding. 



Fig. 9. A mold filled with plastic, topped with a preheated metal weight, and ready to go 
back into the toaster oven. 


hardness as canopies and other elear 
parts. 

Kitchen-table injection molding. If 

the beads will not make a perfect im- 
pression of all the detail of the pattern, 
the molten plastic can be forced into 
the mold cavity with a heated metal 
weight. It’s the kitchen-table equiv- 
alent of injection molding, and it works 
like this: 

1. Preheat the mold in the 375-de- 
gree oven for 15 minutes. 

2. Heap styrene beads over the mold 
cavity and return the mold to the oven. 
At the same time, preheat a fiat brass 
or Steel weight large enough to cover 
the mold cavity. 

3. After 10-15 minutes remove the 
mold from the oven and poke the gel- 
like plastic into any unfilled portions of 
the mold cavity with tweezers. Place 
the heated weight on top of the mold, 
sąueezing the molten plastic into the 
mold cavities, Fig. 9, and return the 
mold with the weight on top to the 
oven. 

4. Heat the mold, plastic, and weight 
for another 5-10 minutes, then remove 
and allow to cool. When the weight is 
cool enough to touch, pop away the 
mold and examine the finished part. 
Slip a thin knife blade under the part 
to separate it from the weight. If the 
parts stick to the weight, coat the metal 
lightly with a lubricant such as WD-40. 
It’s possible to rapidly cool the heated 
mold and weight by running cold water 
over them, but I have warped several 
castings in doing so. 

Whether you use the heated weight 
techniąue or not it’s best to overfill the 
mold slightly, leaving some flash on 
the back of the casting that must be 
sanded off, Fig. 10. Castings that don’t 


come out perfect can be returned to the 
mold and reheated for another try. 

The variables. Given a little exper- 
ience in how a particular mold works, I 
found I could reduce its rejection ratę 
almost to zero. The melting tempera¬ 
turę of the plastic seems to be the most 
important variable. 

The best temperaturę setting on my 
toaster oven is 410-435 degrees, but I 
suspect the temp inside is the recom- 
mended 375 F. Don’t be tempted to in- 
crease the temperaturę morę than 10 
degrees at a time. I found that when 
the styrene beads are overheated they 
start to decompose, forming bubbles 
while hot and cooling to a brittle (and 
useless), candy-like mass. In case you’re 
wondering, the RTV rubber I use with- 
stands temperatures up to 600 degrees 
F., and most types have similar heat- 
reśistant characteristics. 

I don’t know many modelers who 
don’t have extensive sprue collections, 
so to answer your next ąuestion, no, 
sprue isn’t a good substitute for elear 
styrene beads. While I have madę one 
or two usable castings from chopped-up 
sprue, it tends to smoke in the oven, 
and the beads definitely work better. 

One parting notę — before you head 
off to the kitchen to Shanghai that 
toaster oven, remember that mold-mak- 
ing and casting are really justified only 
when you need many duplicates of a 
part that is not commercially available. 
It’s far from a way to save money — the 
molding rubber is expensive, not to 
mention the amount of electricity you’11 
use — and the process is time-consum- 
ing. And, it’s work — if nothing else, 
casting your own parts gives you a 
heightened appreciation of commercial 
products! FSM 


Fali 1982 25 












Ali photos: FINESCALE MODELER. A. L Schmidt 

Models that will be handled frequently should be sturdy and shows in shopping malls and public libraries without sustaining 
easily repairable. These Mustangs have survived a number of any damage. 


Building a five-model scalę 
reference display 


Ouickly constructed P-51s that immediately 
explain the concept of scalę 


BY LARRY SCHRAMM 

A COLLECTION OF MODELS for 
• public display should be attract- 
ive and informative: The models should 
first capture the viewer’s attention and 
then answer a ąuestion. One ąuestion I 
often hear at modeling shows is "How 
do you know what scalę that model is?” 
Another is, "What do you mean by 1/32 
scalę?” Instead of trying to explain this 
concept until we’re blue in the face, 
several members of the Richard I. Bong 
Chapter, IPMS, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 
decided that we would build a visual 
reference display, choosing one aircraft 
and building models of it in five differ- 
ent scales. 

The piane I modeled. We looked 
about for a piane that would be at least 
somewhat familiar to most non-model- 
ers (so that we wouldn’t have to explain 
how big the full-size piane was), that 
had relatively few delicate parts, and 
that would be easily repairable. Plastic 


kits would also have to be available in 
five scales. We decided on the P-51D 
Mustang, a piane that met all of our 
criteria, and that’s attractive to boot. 

Of course, there were many produc- 
tion versions of the Mustang, so which 
should we choose, and which pilot’s 
piane should we represent? I decided on 


\ 


Major William Shomo’s "The Flying 
Undertaker” because Ralph Winkel, our 
late secretary-treasurer, was crew chief 
for that piane: The display is dedicated 
to Ralph. 

William Shomo, then a Captain, was 
with the 71st Tactical Reconnaissance 
Group, 82nd Tactical Reconnaissance 
Sąuadron, Fifth Air Force. While on a 
recon mission to Luzon in the Philip- 
pines on January 11, 1945, Shomo and 
his wingman, Lt. Paul Lipscomb, flying 
F-6Ds, intercepted a formation of 12 
Japanese Tony fighters escorting a Bet- 



In order to keep the focus on the relative sizes of planes in different scales, each of the 
models has identical color schemes and markings. 


26 FineScale Modeler 




“The Fiying Undertaker” markings are a great conversation starter. Hand painting the 
markings on elear decal paper (and on a fiat surface) rather than directly on the model 
lets you correct mistakes morę easily. 


ty bomber. Shomo destroyed six fight- 
ers and the Betty in 15 minutes; Lip- 
scomb shot down three morę fighters. 
Shomo received the Congressional Med¬ 
al of Honor; Lipscomb received the Dis- 
tinguished Fiying Cross. 

The piane flown by Shomo that day 
was "Snooks 5”; I modeled "Snooks 6,” 
P-51D-20-NA, serial 44-72505, a piane 
Shomo received a few inonths after 
these victories and the one that borę 
the famous "Fiying Undertaker” letter- 
ing. The aireraft was named "The Fly- 
ing Undertaker” because Major Shomo 
had been a licensed embalmer before 
the war. An excellent article by Ralph 
Winkel and Rev. Del Miller in IPMS 
Quarterly , Vol. 13, No. 1 (1977) ex- 
plains Shomo’s planes and shows their 
markings. By the way, William Shomo 
survived the war, remained in the Air 
Force, and retired as a Lt. Colonel. 

Kits. I built my five models from the 
following kits: 

• 1/24 scalę — MPC No. 2-3502 

• 1/32 scalę — Minicraft / Hasegawa 

No. 1086 

• 1/48 scalę — Otaki No. OTZ-13 

• 1/72 scalę — Minicraft / Hasegawa 

No. 1101 

• 1/144 scalę — Crown No. 1033 

Construction. Because these models 

were to be used only as a scalę refer- 
ence display, I madę no effort to super- 
detail them, so the entire project took 
only about 35 to 40 hours. (For contest 
models, I often spend 50 hours on the 
cockpit alone!) In order to reduce con¬ 
struction time, I eliminated all parts 
that couldn’t be seen on the completed 
models, i.e., engine parts, hidden cock¬ 
pit and gun bay details, and so on. I 
added them to my spare parts box. 

I did, however, fili all seams and 
painted and decaled the models care- 
fully so that they would make a good 
impression on viewers. 

I built the 1/24 scalę kit separately 
because it had a large number of parts, 
but all of the other models were con- 
structed simultaneously, using assem- 
bly-line techniąues. 

I first assembled and painted the 
cockpits and joined the fuselage halves. 
The wing assemblies came next, fol- 
lowed by the horizontal stabilizers. I 
Ieft off all smali parts until after paint¬ 
ing and decaling. 

Painting. I used Pactra paints on all 
of the models, and here again I used an 
assembly-line approach. I first painted 
fiat black all of the tires, props, and the 
areas on the wings and fuselages where 
the Identification stripes were to go. 
The anti-glare panels are olive drab, 
the prop hubs and taił tips are yellow. 
After all paint had dried overnight, I 
masked the fuselage and wing stripes, 
the anti-glare panels, taił tips, and can- 
opy framing. I then sprayed all of the 
remaining surfaces with Pactra Chrome 
Silver. 

Why did I paint in this seąuence? 


Weil, if you’ve had any experience with 
metallic paints like silver, you know 
that if you apply the metallic paint 
first, you’11 invariably puli off some of 
the paint when you remove the mask- 
ing tape. Nonmetallic paints adhere 
better and can be masked safely. 

If these were contest models, I would 
have used Liqu-a-plate to simulate alu- 
minum, but knowing that these models 
would be handled often, I chose the 
Chrome Silver paint which can take 
much morę abuse. 

After the silver paint had dried, I re- 
moved all of the masking except that 
on the canopies and anti-glare panels 
and sprayed on several thin coats of 
Micro Gloss. 

Decals. With the exception of the 1/48 
scalę model, I hand painted all personal 
markings for the aireraft on Scale-Mas- 
ter elear decal film. The 1/48 scalę 
markings are from Microscale sheet 
No. 48-1, Mustang Aces, which includes 
the "Fiying Undertaker” lettering. The 
yellow striping is from a Scale-Master 
sheet. Serial numbers are from Micro¬ 
scale sheet 72-25, U. S. ID Letters and 
Numbers. The stars and bars, ki 11 mark¬ 
ings, and all other markings came from 



To save time, use commercial products if 
they are available; here the “66“ is a com¬ 
mercial decal with hand painted shading. 


kit decal sheets or from my scrap box. 

All decals were applied by the Micro¬ 
scale system. After the decals dried, I 
washed off all excess decal adhesive 
and setting Solutions and gave the mod¬ 
els several finał coats of Micro Gloss. 
After this had dried, I removed the 
masking on the canopies and anti-glare 
panels and glued on wheels, gear doors, 
props, and antennas. 

Public reaction. The display serves 
its purpose. We’ve taken it to several 
shows and the most common reaction 
from viewers is that, yes, it’s a lot 
easier for them to understand scales 
when they have models to look at in- 
stead of just a bunch of numbers. For 
my own part, I found that building five 
models at once was great fun, and, in 
its own way, morę relaxing than slav- 
ing for months over a single contest 
piece. Building the display was a wel- 
come "vacation” from my morę serious 
modeling projects, and I recommend 
such a vacation to all modelers. After 
all, there are enough kits available in 
enough scales these days that dozens of 
subjects exist for three-, four-, or five- 
model scalę reference displays. Try your 
hand at one! FSM 



Larry confined weathering to smoke marks 
behind the machinę gun muzzles and ex- 
haust stains near the engine exhaust 
ports. All external surfaces except the 
canopies are sealed with elear varnish to 
protect the color coats of paint. 


Fali 1982 


27 


Modeling the Supermarine 
Walrus in 1/48 scalę 

Funny— it doesn’t look like a Spitfire 

BY ROSCOE CREED 


1 T’S HARD TO BEL1EVE that the 
Supermarine Walrus and the Spit¬ 
fire of World War II were designed by 
the same man, and only a few years 
apart. The Walrus biplane, with its 
maże of struts and wires, looks morę at 
home alongside an S.E.5 of an earlier 
conflict than it does beside its sleek 
younger cousin. 

About the Walrus. Reginald Joseph 
Mitchell probably wouldn’t have de¬ 
signed the Walrus if he hadn’t been 
asked to. In 1929 the Royal Australian 
Navy reąuested a short-hulled flying 
boat to be carried aboard ship for recon- 
naissance. Mitchell took the easy way 
out, but at the same time went the 
RAN one better: He refined his Seagull 
I design of 1922 and came up with an 
amphibian, the Seagull V. 

Mitchelfs anachronism had a 45' 10" 
wingspan and a 37' 7" hull that held a 
pilot, navigator, and "telegraphist air 
gunner.” It stood almost half as tali as 
it was long: 15' 3" (on chassis). A na- 
celle mounted on struts between the 
wings carried a 775 hp Bristol Pegasus 
VI nine-cylinder radial air-cooled en- 
gine which swung a four-bladed wooden 
propeller, pusher style. To arrive at 


four blades, the designer showed typi- 
cal British practicality by bolting to- 
gether two two-bladed propellers. The 
wings folded back alongside the fuse- 
lage for a folded width of a mere 17' 11". 
The main landing gear was fully re- 
tractable into the lower wing. 

The Seagull V first flew in 1933 and 
its performance can best be described 
as sedate: Top speed at sea level was 
124 mph and cruising speed at 3,500' 
was 95 mph. 

The name Walrus was chosen by the 
Admiralty when the first order for the 
piane was placed for the Royal Navy in 
1935. Aircrews soon applied their own 
names, however. "Steam Pigeon” was 
obviously derived from the effects of 
sea spray hitting the exposed cylinders 
of the Pegasus. Another, "Flying Gas 
Ring,” came from the stove-like glow of 
the exhaust stacks at night. It was also 
called "Shagbatfor reasons known 
only to the British. 

As to the manufacturer’s name, I’ve 
found the piane called the Superma¬ 
rine Walrus, the Vickers Walrus, the 
SupermarineA^ickers Walrus, and even 
the Vickers/Armstrong Walrus. This 
diversity results from mergers in the 


British aircraft industry during the ’20s, 
’30s, and ’40s, so be prepared to look 
under all of the names when using bib- 
liographies and indexes. 

The Walrus was stressed for cata- 
pulting, although its rickety appear- 
ance gave rise to the feeling that one 
good shot would leave the top wing and 
engine behind on the deck. It was also 
fully aerobatic, but new pilots never 
looped it morę than once because of the 
cold shower that splashed down out of 
the bilges. 

Its hull could withstand landings and 
takeoffs in six-foot swells, a ąuality 
that meant the difference between life 
and death for many downed airmen 
and sailors bobbing about in the icy 
waters of the North Atlantic and Eng- 
lish Channel during WWII. 

The Walrus performed eąually well 
in its shipboard scouting and air-sea 
rescue roles. Bristling with a Lewis 
gun in the fore and aft hatches, and 
toting a 100-pound bomb under each 
wing, it even saw antisubmarine ser- 
vice in the Mediterranean. But, over- 
shadowed by the exploits of the fighters 
and bombers, the Walrus got about as 
much attention during the war as an 


28 FineScale Modeler 















The author buitt his Walrus Mk. II from an Italian Artiplast re-release of an injection- 
molded kit whose English Merit molds datę from the ’50s. The kit is now manufactured 
by Smer Prague in Czechoslovakia. 


ugly stepchild. Even its most heroic 
air-sea rescue efforts went largely 
unsung. 

The kit. The Walrus kit was first re- 
leased in England in the ’50s under the 
Merit label. The one I was given was a 
’60s re-release by Artiplast of Italy. 
Lately the kit has resurfaced in Czech- 
oslovakia under the name Smer Prague, 
with kits finding their way to the West 
through trades by individuals. The box 
clearly States 1/50 scalę, but unless my 
facts are wrong or I misread my Mur- 
phy’s Rule, the dimensions are on the 
money for 1/48. 

In going through the pieces — 67 of 
them, now encumbered with consider- 
able flash — I realized the kit, perhaps 
good enough for the ’50s, is not so to- 
day. The simulated rivets depressed in 
the hull are a good scalę inch in diame- 
ter, the sag of fabric across wing and 
taił surfaces is pronounced, and the in¬ 
terior is Spartan and mostly wrong. 
However, the generał outlines are good. 
I found the kit a step ahead of scratch- 
building. 

The piane I modeled. I modeled a 
Walrus Mk. II of 276 Sąuadron, an air- 
sea rescue unit operating in England 
early in the war, whose picture I found 
in the April 1968 Aeroplane magazine. 
Interior data came from a cutaway 
dra wing on the endpapers of The Super- 
marine Walrus , a book by G. W. R. 
Nicholl published in London by G. T. 
Foulis & Co., Ltd., in 1966. These, plus 
a book titled British Auiation Colours 
of World War II and some IPMS arti- 
cles from the past, put me in business. 

Detailing the hull and the interior. I 
first sanded all of the hull joints on a 
piece of 400-grit sandpaper laid fiat on 
the workbench, Fig. 1; this ensured lit- 
tle putty would be needed later. Then I 
sawed off the vertical stabilizer and the 
rudder; they are too thick and the fillet 


is too large, so must be thinned down. 
The gaps in the fuselage halves caused 
by the surgery were filled with sheet 
styrene. 

Opportunities for detailing the inte¬ 
rior were rife because the kit provided 
only two bad seats, an incorrect instru¬ 
ment panel, and an overlarge steering 
wheel. 

The inside of the hull features promi¬ 
nent reinforcing ribs which I madę from 
strips of HO scalę 2x2 model railroad 
basswood first smeared with white glue 
and then sanded to remove the rough 
edges, Fig. 2. The strips conformed eas- 
ily to the curves of the hull and were 
cemented in place with Hot Stuff. I 
epoxied the hull Windows in place and 
painted the interior a duli green. 

Decking for the bilge covers came 
from styrene HO model railroad wooden 
boxcar siding, Fig. 3. I reshaped the 
seats to conform to those in the cut¬ 
away drawing and the pilot’s seat got a 
wire landing gear raising handle and a 
masking tape seat belt with Waldron 
buckles. The pilot also got a scratch- 
built Waldron instrument panel, rud¬ 
der pedals, throttle ąuadrant, and trim 
wheels. 

The radio operator got a seat from 
the spare parts box (there was nonę in 
the kit) and radios complete with head- 
phones. Unfortunately, this compart- 
ment was hidden when the hull halves 
were assembled. 

I put the navigator and his table be- 
hind the pilot. A kit-supplied bulkhead 
between navigator and radio operator 
was tossed in the spare parts box; nonę 
shows in the cutaway. 

A fluked anchor from a model boat 
and a scratchbuilt boathook went in¬ 
side the fore hatch; a mounting ladder, 
sea anchor, flares, bilge pumps, and 
fuel transfer pumps went inside the aft 
hatch, Fig. 4. I sawed the magazines 



Fig. 1. Before assembly, Roscoe sanded 
all joints on a sheet of 400-grit sandpaper 
laid fiat on the workbench. This ensured 
that little putty would be reguired. 



Fig. 2. To simulate reinforcing ribs inside 
the hull, Roscoe coated strips of bass¬ 
wood HO scalę 2x2 lumber with white 
glue, sanded them smooth, and then ce¬ 
mented the strips in place using freezer- 
cooled Hot Stuff applied with a drafts- 
man s ruling pen. 



Fig. 3. A portion of the decking — HO box- 
car siding — can be seen through the fore 
hatch, as well as the scratchbuilt control 
column through the cockpit hatch, which 
was sawed out and opened. 



Fig. 4. View through aft hatch shows bilge 
pump and flares. Other interior equipment 
includes a sea anchor, boathook, fuel 
transfer pumps, ladder, and an anchor 
from a model boat. 


Fali 1982 29 






















Royal Air Force Museum 

This 1938 photo of two mechanics working 
on a beached Walrus’ Pegasus VI engine 
suggests interesting possibilities for a 
simple diorama. 


Ron Moulton 

This beautifully restored Walrus Mk. II is on permanent display at the Royal Air Force 
Museum, Hendon, London. 


30 FineScale Modeler 

































































































































Royal Air Force Museum 


The Supermarine Walrus of the ’30s and ’40s was based on a 1922 design, which ex- 
plains why it looked like a holdover from the previous war. During WWil it served mostly 
in air-sea rescue and scouting roles. There were two variants: the Walrus Mk. I differed 
from the Walrus Mk. II only in that the former had a metal hull, the latter a wooden hull. It 
was powered by an early model in the Bristol Pegasus series of radial engines. 


SUPERMARINE WALRUS Mk. II 

Manufacturer: Supermarine/Vickers 
Power p/ant: One 775 horsepower Bristo/ Pega¬ 
sus VI nine-cylinder radial engine 
Dimensions: Wingspan - 45' 10" (17' 11" folded) 
Length - 37' 7" 

Height -15' 3" 

Wing area - 610 square feet 
Weights: Empty - 4,900 pounds 

Loaded - 7,200 pounds 

Performance: Speed - 124 mph at sea łevel, 135 
mph at 4,750 feet. Ratę of climb - 
12.5 minutes to 10,000 feet. Rangę 
- 600 miles at 95 mph at 3,500 feet. 
Service ceiling - 18,500 feet 


from the Lewis guns and stowed the 
guns and ammunition inside the hull 
because nonę of my photos showed the 
guns mounted on their ScarfT rings. 

Thanks to their earlier sanding the 
fuselage halves needed very little putty 
after they were joined with liquid plas- 


Fall 1982 31 


































































































































Fig. 5. After he had filed and sanded the assembly to an airfoil 
shape, Roscoe cut the elevators from the horizontal stabilizer 
with a jeweler s saw. 


Fig. 6. Outboard wing struts were molded in pairs on a bar which 
fit poorly into a slot on the wing. These were sawed off, ieaving 
part of the bar on the strut to serve as a mounting tab. 



Fig. 7. The remaining portion of the strut 
bar was cemented in its slot, then puttied 
over and sanded flush. 

tic cement. I then masked all hatches 
and cockpit openings to keep out dust, 
overspray, and errant fingers, and gave 
the exterior of the hull and wing tip 
floats a coat of putty to fili the rivet de- 
pressions. (My photos didn’t show riv- 
ets either.) 



Fig. 8. After opening up the carburetor in- 
take and before joining the nacelle halves, 
Roscoe inserted a piece of fine-mesh 
brass screen. 

Canopy. The cockpit canopy fit poor¬ 
ly at the windshield so I white-glued it 
in place, then puttied and sanded the 
seam. First, however, I sawed out the 
sliding portion of the canopy top and 
filed the edges smooth. I later inset a 
fiat piece of elear butyrate plastic in 


the open position. Clear butyrate plas¬ 
tic sheet in thicknesses of 0.0075", 0.10", 
0.015", and 0.030" is distributed by K&S 
Engineering and sold in most hobby 
shops. Butyrate is morę flexible and 
morę resistant to solvents than styrene. 

I sanded all joints on the top and bot- 
tom halves of both wings, filed and 
sanded the too-thick trailing edges, then 
glued the lower wing to the hull. 

Elevators and struts. Next, I filed 
the blunt trailing edges of the horizon¬ 
tal stabilizer to an airfoil shape and re- 
moved the elevators with a jeweler’s 
saw, Fig. 5. I later remounted the ele- 
vators in their down position, as they 
appear in most photos. 

The taił and wing struts are molded 
in pairs on bars which slip into slots on 
the bottoms of the top wing and hori¬ 
zontal stabilizer. The bars don’t fit well. 
I solved the problem by cutting the 
struts from the bars, leaving the ends 
of the bars attached to each strut to 
serve as mounting tabs later, Fig. 6. I 
centered the rest of the bars in their 
slots and cemented them, leaving a 
hole at each end for the tabs. Each bar 
was puttied over and sanded flush, be- 
ing careful to keep the tab holes open, 
Fig. 7. 

Nacelle, engine, and propeller. Be¬ 
fore cementing together the engine na¬ 
celle halves, I filed out the solid molded 
carburetor intake and installed a piece 
of Kemtron fine-mesh brass wire screen, 
Fig. 8.* 

Setting the engine nacelle in place 
was a trial and error proposition. Rather 
than offsetting the vertical stabilizer, 
the usual remedy, R. J. Mitchell had 
compensated for engine torque by off¬ 
setting the nacelle three degrees, Fig. 9. 
The kit designer chickened out and set 
the nacelle at zero degrees. I achieved 
the offset by cutting smali pieces from 
one front and one rear nacelle strut on 
opposite sides, making it progressively 

*Kemtron products are sold by William K. Wal- 
thers, Inc., 5601 West Florist Avenue, Milwaukee, 
WI 53218, and you can order them through most 
hobby shops. 



Fig. 9. Notę the three-degree offset between the fuselage center linę and the engine in 
this top view. Notę also the rearward sweep of the wings, a concept seemingly ahead of 
its time for 1929. 


32 FineScale Modeler 







Fig. 10. The hubs of the kit-supplied propellers and Pegasus en- 
gine are good facsimiles of the original, but the propeller blades 
needed reshaping. 



Fig. 11. His research photos showed a landing light on the Wal- 
rus being modeled, but nonę was supplied in his kit, so Roscoe 
built up a putty fairing to house an O scalę model locomotive 
headlight lens. 


shorter than its matę, thereby causing 
the nacelle to twist. 

This was a case of one solution creat- 
ing its own problem. Since the top wing 
attaches to the nacelle by cabane struts, 
there was now a three-degree offset be- 
tween top and bottom wings. I solved 
this by leaving off the cabane struts for 
the time being and aligning the top 
wing on the outboard struts. With the 
top wing taped in place, I then scratch- 
built new cabane struts to fit. 

The kit includes a reasonable like- 
ness of the Pegasus, but its propeller 
blades are too paddle-like, so I trimmed 
them with files and sandpaper, Fig. 10. 

Landing light and antenna masts. 
Photos of the 276 Sąuadron Walrus 
showed a landing light on the Iower 
port wing. The kit offered nonę, so I 
built up a putty fairing to house an 
M. V. Products O scalę model railroad 
locomotive headlight lens, Fig. 11.** 

I discarded the spindly kit-supplied 
antenna masts, madę new ones from 
large pins, and attached them to wings 
and rudder with Hot Stuff. 

Painting and decaling. Ali compo- 
nents now completed, I began to paint 
the exterior. To datę my Walrus in the 
Battle of Britain period, I chose Dark 
Sea Gray/Extra Dark Sea Gray over 
Sky Type S. The paint was Pactra, the 
grays mixed from an old chart, and the 
Sky Type S straight from the bottle. I 
limited weathering to lightening the 
upper colors with a few drops of white 
in the finał coat, followed with a wash 
of white misted on to simulate streaks 
of salt spray. 

Decals pirated from a Microscale Mos- 
ąuito sheet (48-13) went on the top 
wing and vertical stabilizer. Fuselage 
roundels came from a friend’s 1/72 scalę 
spare decal box. Fuselage codes were 
from a Microscale sheet. 

Finał assembly and rigging. After 
all paints and decals had dried thor- 

**M. V. Products, Box 6622. Orange, CA 92667. 


oughly, I cemented the top wing in place. 

I had planned how 1 would rig the 
model long in advance and had drilled 
holes in the fuselage, engine nacelle, 
and wings before they were assembled. 
I madę flying wires from 0.015" musie 
(or piano) wire, first ground fiat with a 


flexible-shaft motor tool, then finished 
with a file and sandpaper, Fig. 12. K&S 
Engineering distributes musie wire in 
36" lengths in 14 diameters from 0.015" 
through 14": It’s sold in the flying model 
section of your hobby shop. 

Unless you enjoy ruining expensive 



Fig. 12. Roscoe madę realistic fiat flying wires from 0.015'' piano wire held taut in a 
homemade rack on his workbench, first grinding with a flexible-shaft tool, then finishing 
with a fiat file and 400-grit sandpaper. 


Fali 1982 33 








Fig. 13. Mounting holes for the flying wires were drilled early in 
assembly. The wires were cut to length and cemented in place 
with Hot Stuff after the model had been painted and decaled. 



Fig. 14. Close-up of the empennage shows the positions of ele- 
vators and rudder after remounting, a new antenna mast, and 
the taił wheel, the fairing of which served as a water rudder for 
maneuvering at sea. 


tools, never cut musie wire with side- 
cutting pliers or any other tool except a 
file or a motor tool or flexible shaft 
with a cutoff wheel such as Dremel No. 
409 or No. 426 (best). Clamp the wire 
in a vise before cutting and wear eye 
protection to prevent injury from 
sparks and broken cutoff wheels. 

Although brass wire would be easier 
to work with, I’ve discovered the hard 
way that brass rigging looks great for a 
few months, but then begins to sag 
most discouragingly. 

Short pieces of rigging are stiff enough 
to remain straight on their own; I cut 
these to length and Hot-Stuffed them 
in place. The longer pieces needed ten- 
sioning, so I first cemented one end 
with Hot Stuff. When this had set, I 
pulled the other end of the wire taut 
and applied Hot Stuff, Fig. 13. 

Here’s a tip: Keep Hot Stuff or any 
other cyanoacrylate cement in your 


freezer and apply it with a draftsman’s 
ruling pen. The extreme cold slows the 
setting time and the pen allows precise 
application. The pen points eventually 
become stuck together, but are easily 
separated and cleaned with a modeling 
knife. 

An aft hatch cover is supplied in the 
kit as a elear part because it has four 
smali Windows in it. I masked the Win¬ 
dows and painted the cover interior 
green, followed by a top coat of gray. 
No cover is supplied for the fore hatch, 
so I scratchbuilt one and laid it on the 
decking in its open position so as not to 
hide the stowed eąuipment inside the 
hatch. 

The plastic axles of the main landing 
gear seemed inadeąuate to support the 
weight of the model, so I replaced them 
with wire. The landing gear struts, 
painted at the same time as the rest of 
the piane, were not mounted until al- 


most the last, when I attached them 
with rubber cement. I then cemented 
the rudder and elevators in their new 
positions, added a monofilament thread 
antenna, and brushed dots of color on 
the running lights. 

The taił wheel on a full-scale Walrus 
was uniąue: On a hard surface the 
struts telescoped to put it in a rolling 
position; at sea it dropped down so the 
fairing served as a crude but adeąuate 
rudder. The kit fairing is much too 
wide so 1 filed it to half its original 
thickness. Its mounts are quite deli- 
cate; it was the last part cemented to 
the model, Fig. 14. 

A few touch-ups with Micro Fiat to 
hide cement spots and seuffs, and my 
Walrus was finished. It stands in its 
case on my shelf now, my own smali tri- 
bute to an obscure, homely little warbird 
that saved many morę lives than it 
took. FSM 



Close attention to detail and fine craftsmanship enabled Roscoe to build a fine model from a below-average kit. 


34 FineScale Modeler 




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paints you use live up to the ąuality of your workmanship. 

Whether youYe a beginner or a pro... Polly S is the answer. 



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★ ★ ★ 


Fali 1982 35 




















Three for the road 

Detailing and weathering a trio of World War Two jeeps 


BY BRUCE CULYER 


HE CLASSIC "Truck, l A- ton, 4x4 
Command Reconnaissance” — the 
jeep — was built in huge numbers and 
saw duty with every service on every 
front in World War Two. Willys and 
Ford turned out nearly 640,000 of these 
rugged vehicles, and only the 2 V 2 -ton 
6x6 truck was madę in larger quan- 
tities. 

I built and weathered three 1/35 scalę 
Willys MB jeep kits for this article; two 
using Tamiya kits and one from Testor/ 
ltaleri. Each kit has certain strengths 
and weaknesses, and either would make 
a fine model right from the box. Still, 
there are a number of simple improve- 
ments and details to add which result 
in morę accurate replicas. Some of my 


detail parts came from unused pieces or 
by "cross-kitting” — using parts from 
one kit to detail the other. 

To illustrate some of the many possi- 
ble variations in weathering, I finished 
each jeep differently. The ltaleri kit 
(No. 821) portrays a reconnaissance jeep 
in France late in 1944, with basie dry 
weather effects, while the Tamiya jeep 
with the trailer (No. MMI 15) is mod- 
eled as a "Willie and Joe special” (my 
apologies to Bill Mauldin) in Italy, cov- 
ered with mud and extra stowed gear. 
The third model, another Tamiya jeep 
built mostly because once I got started 
I couldn’t stop, falls somewhere in be- 
tween. 

Analysis and reference. My first 
step in detailing or correcting any model 
is to analyze the kit and determine how 
far 1 want to go with changes. I try to 


make the extent of planned modifica- 
tions match the extent of my interest in 
the subject, so that I’ll both enjoy the 
work and be comfortable with the re- 
sults (and still be relatively sane when 
the project is over). 

The second step is to obtain refer- 
ences — photos, sketches, and plans — 
to furnish information for making the 
changes I’ve planned. I hnd photo ref- 
erences the most helpful, but drawings 
are also good. References need be nei- 
ther extensive nor expensive — maga- 
zines and soft-cover photo books often 
provide everything reąuired, even for 
complex conversions. 

Photographs of preserved vehicles — 
in museums, taken at enthusiast ral- 
lies, or in my case, photos of old jeeps 
still running on local streets — are an 
excellent source of modeling informa- 




Va” removed 

Błock to fili slot 
for spring lug 


Cut off U-joint so axle will fit frame. 

FIG. 1 SHORTENING THE TAMIYA FRAME 


Fig. 2. The stock Tamiya chassis (right) compared to the modi- 
fied version. The frame has been shortened, and the rear 
bumperettes modified as shown in Fig. 17. 



36 FineScale Modeler 









Three photos. FINESCALE MODELER A L Schmidt 


tion. Even modified vehicles often have 
original engines, suspensions, and other 
parts, and restored jeeps owned by col- 
lectors usually conform to original "as 
issued” condition. 

Corrections to the Tamiya kit. This 
model represents a standard produc- 
tion jeep from mid-1942 up to the end of 
the war. There are one or two omis- 
sions and minor errors, but most are 
easy to fix. The most noticeable dis- 
crepancy is that the front wheels and 
bumper are too far forward. I remedied 
this by cutting off the frame at the 
front cross member, removing a Vs" sec- 
tion, and cementing the frame back to- 
gether, Figs. 1 and 2. 

Next, I had to shorten the front drive 
shaft to fit the new frame length, and I 
modified the front spring assemblies by 
cutting off the rear mounting lugs and 
cementing these into their slots in the 
frame. I could then cement the front 
springs in place, using the front guide 
pins to locate them properly. This re- 



stores the proper relationship between 
the radiator grille, wheels, and bump¬ 
er, and is the one really important cor- 
rection to make to the Tamiya model. 

The wheels and tires on the Tamiya 
jeep lack tread detail, and my solution 
was to coat them with a heavy layer of 
mud (morę about that later). Another 
approach would be to replace the wheels 
altogether (the wheels from the Italeri 
trailer will work, if you have spares). 

lmproving jerry cans and seats.The 
stowed jerry cans in the Tamiya kit are 
inaccurate, so I replaced them with bet- 
ter parts from U. S. accessory sets by 
Tamiya and Italeri. By the way, U. S. 
vehicles in northern Europę and Italy 
often carried German jerry cans, which 
were superior to the U. S. design. Also, 
the British manufactured an exact copy 
of the German can, many of which are 
still in use today, so you could substi- 
tute German cans instead of U. S. 

If you want to use the Tamiya jerry 
cans, Fig. 3 shows how to re-detail them. 
Cut off the single molded handle and 
replace it with a proper triple-bar grip, 
then replace the molded-on strap with 
a paper or thin sheet plastic one. You 
can also try carefully scribing along 



HIDING THE SOLID 
FIG. 4 SEATFRAMES 


Each of these 1/35 scalę jeeps has a dis- 
tinct personality of its own. The Tamiya 
model with the bullet holes (far left) was 
weathered to represent a light overall 
coating of dried mud. The Italeri jeep (mid- 
dle) mounts a machinę gun and a wire 
cutter bar. Its dry soil weathering was 
done with pastel chalks and sifted soil. 
The Tamiya jeep with the trailer wears a 
thick buildup of still-wet mud; author Cul- 
ver calls it a “Willie and Joe special.” 



the sides of the molded-on strap to 
make it appear to be a separate part. 
Scribing a groove around the top edge 
of the bracket also helps make the can 
and bracket look like separate pieces. 

The Tamiya jeep seats have been 
simplified by molding the seat cushions 
and lower frames onto the floor panel. 
To be correct, the right front seat should 
be supported above the floor on a tubu- 
lar frame, leaving an open storage space 
under it. Since this area was commonly 
used to stów the canvas top, I madę a 
folded top from tissue and used it and 
other stowed items to camouflage the 
solid seat support, Fig. 4. This is a good 



Fig. 6. Opening up the gap between the 
Italeri seat cushion and backrest takes 
time, but the change is noticeable, espe- 
cially if you don’t plan to hide the seat with 
a figurę. 


/ 


Fali 1982 37 



























Strips of 
stretched sprue 
or thin sheet 
for wipers 



. T wo 

frame 

FIG. 7 WINDSHIELD DETAILS (from sprue or plastic rod) 



Fig. 8. This Willys jeep, seen during the 
fighting in the Cherbourg peninsula, car- 
ries the national (and Allied) star and cir- 
cle on the canvas windshield cover. This 
was a common practice, sińce a lot of 
jeeps were driven with the windshields 
down and covered most of the time. 

detail even for the Italeri jeep, which 
does have a correct separate front seat 
frame. 

Corrections to the Italeri kit. The 

Italeri jeep represents a late-produc- 



tion version with powered windshield 
wipers, some extra body fittings, and a 
torque booster spring for the left front 
wheel. Its detail is generally finer than 
that on the Tamiya model, even though 
the Tamiya kit has morę optional parts 
and better figures. There are some mi¬ 
nor discrepancies, most of which can be 
corrected easily. 

The most important discrepancy is in 
the front seat design. Where the real 
thing had an open tubular frame and 
an open space between the rear of the 
seat cushion and the bottom of the 
backrest cushion, the Italeri seats are 
molded with the cushions touching to 
form a solid seat, probably to prevent 
the thin side frames from breaking. 
The gap should be about % 2 " wide. 

The best way to cut away the seat 
cushions and open up the reąuired gap 
is with a Steel cutter in a motor tool, 
but it’s also possible to do the job by fil- 



ing and scraping. If you don’t have a 
motor tool, start by drilling a series of 
overlapping holes to remove most of 
the materiał, Fig. 5. Files, a modeling 
knife (for scraping), and sandpaper will 
complete the job, Fig. 6. The side frames 
are very weak; handle the seats care- 
fully after separating the cushions. The 
solid bottom ledges can also be removed 
by filing, as WWII jeep seats did not 
have them. Leave about W' of ledge on 
the right side of the right seat to sup- 
port it. 

The other detail error in the Italeri 
kit is in the windshield frame assem- 
bly. On the real thing this was a steel 
tubing frame with a sheet metal panel 
welded to the front, below the glass. 
The tubing was visible on the back of 
the panel, but Italeri molded it fiat, 
with only a fine outline for positioning 
the optional rifle scabbard. I added the 
framework using stretched sprue (ny¬ 
lon brush bristles would also work), 
Fig. 7. I elected not to install the scab¬ 
bard, so I sanded off the outline before 
adding the new tubing frame. 

Extra windshield details. Now, with 
the most noticeable errors corrected or 
concealed, I added a number of smali 
details to each model. The windshield 
is a good place to begin. The Tamiya 
model needs windshield wipers, and 
Fig. 7 shows the standard manuał crank 
type. Late-production jeeps had vacuum- 
operated wipers, and the Italeri wind¬ 
shield has the motors but the housings 
are too smali. I madę larger housings 
using the waste plugs from parts 92 
and 93, cementing them in place after 
flattening them to an oval shape with a 
file. I also added manuał cranks to the 
wiper motor housings. 

Figurę 7 also shows how to make the 
slotted windshield clamp strips. If you 
haven’t madę something like this be¬ 
fore, notę that the cutting seąuence is 
important: Cut and shape the center 
slotdirst, then mark the width on each 
side of the slot and cut with a razor saw 
held fiat against the surface and hori- 
zontal so the cut is madę all at once and 
does not tear the thin materiał. 

I also added windshield and hood 
hold-down clamps, as the molded clamps 
are too smali and some are missing. I 
used short chips of plastic rod and bits 
of stretched sprue to make up smali "T” 
shapes, then cemented them in place. 

An important windshield detail that 
I should have included on at least one 
of the jeeps, but didn’t, is a cover for the 
lowered windshield, Fig. 8. This cover 
not only protected the glass, but also 
prevented reflections that might be seen 
by enemy observers. General Patton 
repeatedly stressed the importance of 
covering lowered windshields to pre- 
vent such reflections. The covers were 
widely used in Europę, and even raised 
windshields were often deliberately left 
dirty to reduce reflections. To model 
the canvas cover, pre-paint the wind- 


38 FineScale Modeler 




















Fig. 11. The author cemented facial tissue over the Tamiya top 
to improve the fabric texture, and built a dummy load for the 
trailer from various nondescript spare parts. 


FIG. 12 REWORKING THE TAMIYA GUN STANCHION 


shield frame and wrap it with trimmed 
tissue, then cement with white glue, 
Fig. 9. The real covers fit fairly well, so 
the tissue should be stretched to elimi- 
nate large wrinkles and folds. 

Panels and pedals. Both kits have 
minor errors in the instrument panels, 
Fig. 10. The most prominent new detail 
is the parking brake handle, which 
should be separate from the panel in- 
stead of molded in place. I madę the 
hold-down hooks for the windshield from 
chips of sheet plastic, and other details 
include eyes on the sides of the cowl for 
the safety straps over the door open- 
ings, latch buttons for the toolboxes, 
and separate clutch and brake pedals. 
A ąuick trick for the pedals is to press a 
safety tread pattern into the plastic by 
rolling a knurled file handle over it, 
pressing hard to imprint the pattern. 

I improved the texture of the top on 
the Tamiya jeep by covering it with fa¬ 
cial tissue, using liąuid plastic cement 
as the adhesive. The tissue provides a 
rough, fabric appearance and adds lots 
of realistic folds and wrinkles, Fig. 11.1 
also replaced the solid plastic rear win- 
dow with a piece of heavy cellophane to 
reproduce the uneven surface of the 
flexible window. Add this window be- 
fore covering the top with the tissue pa- 
per overlay so the tissue can be trimmed 



U. S. Army 


Fig. 14. This Military Police jeep mounts 
one of the many variations of the .50 cal. 
Browning installation. Also notę the wind¬ 
shield adjustment clamp and the wiper 
motor housing. 


to fit and hide the edges of the cello¬ 
phane. 

Cross-kitting a machinę gun for the 

“peep.” I mounted the .50 cal. Brown¬ 
ing machinę gun from the Tamiya kit 
on the Italeri jeep, building it as a re- 
connaissance "peep” in France. (Jeeps 
assigned to armored units were often 
called "peeps”) The Tamiya stanchion 
mount for the .50 is simplified, so I re- 
worked it. I have seen photos of a field- 
manufactured mount just like the one 
Tamiya provides, but it was used with 
an air-cooled .30 cal. Browning. The 
weight of the .50 M2HB machinę gun 
reąuired the standard flexible cradle 
mount found on .50-armed U. S. vehi- 
cles. The easiest way to model it is to 
find a suitable cradle from another kit, 
but lacking that, the existing parts can 
be modified, Fig. 12. 

The Tamiya .50 is basically accurate, 
but simplified. The rear double spade 
grips come molded as a solid bar, so I 
removed the center of the bar with a 
round file, opening up the space behind 
the receiver, Figs. 13 and 14. Trim the 
handles until they are round, then thin 
the upper and lower handle forks with 
files. These should be as thin as possi- 
ble, sińce the originals are thin metal 
plates. 

Further optional changes I madę in¬ 
clude drilling out the holes in the bar- 
rel jacket and opening up the cradle 
gun mount molded to the gun. These 
are tedious, but the improvements are 
noticeable. The barrel changing handle 
came from another gun, thinned down 
as much as possible. This handle can 
also be madę from very fine sprue or 
wire. 

Modeling stowed gear. Packs, bags, 
clothing, and other cloth gear can be 
reproduced with facial tissue, moist- 
ened with water and folded to the proper 
sizes and shapes. Add flaps, straps, 
buckles, and fasteners with strips of 
tissue and bits of plastic sheet attached 
with white glue. Heavy-v rubber and 
rubberized canvas tarps, bedrolls, and 
covers are best reproduced using heavy- 
weight aluminum foil or the thin metal 
from toothpaste tubes. The thin metal, 
when painted, simulates the smooth, 
shiny surface of rubber tarps, Fig. 15. 




File or cut to 
open grips 
area yf 


Trigger 




— Buffer 
from thin sprue 


FIG. 13 IMPROYING THE .50 CAL 


/ 

Open 

mounting 

cradle 


Add new 
barrel changing 
handle 


dflEB 

Meet Bruce Culver 

Bruce Culver is 41 years old, and 
has been building models for over 20 
years. After joining IPMS in 1966, he 
wrote several articles for the IPMS 
Ouarterly. He has also written a num- 
ber of magazine articles and several 
books on AFVs and military model¬ 
ing, and has worked on pre-produc- 
tion research for plastic model kits. 

Bruce lives near Dallas, Texas, and 
works as a technical writer at the 
Vought Corporation. Besides model¬ 
ing, his interests include military tech- 
nology, photography, model kit de¬ 
sign, and flying. He is a member of 
IPMS, the AFV Association, the Mili¬ 
tary Vehicle Collectors Club, and a 
replica home-built aircraft group in 
the Antigue Airplane Association. 



Fali 1982 39 




























Fig. 15. Facial tissue folded several times 
lengthwise, then rolled or folded, makes 
corwincing bedrolls, tarps, or other cloth 
stowed items. Metal foil is better for simu- 
lating rubber and rubberized fabric items. 



Fig. 16. The Tamiya jeep and trailer before 
painting, showing the stowed equipment 
and the tissue cover on the trailer. 

When adding stowed equipment to 
your models, remember that the real 
things are heavy. Soft items should be 
punched down, even crushed, by the 
weight of stuff piled on top of them, and 
unsupported packs should sag under 
their own weight. Generally, if you 
make stowed eąuipment look heavy it 
will look right. After arranging the 
stowed items in the model, dampen the 
tissue ślightly so it will retain its shape. 
When dry, remove the eąuipment and 
paint it separately, but be surę you 
weather it with the vehicle. 

A dummy trailer load. The Italeri kit 
provides no eąuipment for the trailer, 



and the Tamiya kit furnishes only a 
partial load, so I madę up a dummy 
load for the Tamiya trailer so it would 
look fuli, and saved the detailed kit 
eąuipment for use on other models or 
dioramas. The dummy load is madę of 
scrap shapes representing boxes, bags, 
cable reels, field packs, clothing, and 
anything else that soldiers might scav- 
enge and hide under the tarp. Once the 
shapes were in place, I draped a tissue 
tarp over the load, moistened it with 
water to make it hołd its shape, Fig. 16, 
trimmed it and added paper straps, 
then painted and weathered the tarp 
along with the trailer. 

Finer front and rear bumpers. Fig¬ 
urę 17 shows the changes to the bump¬ 
ers. Remove the front bumper from the 
frame and hollow it out by cutting slots 
with a razor saw and removing the ma¬ 
teriał between them with a knife and 
files to make a girder-like "C” section. 
Using a motor tool reduces this to a 15- 
or 20-minute job, but it can be done 
with hand tools. Re-install the bumper, 
making surę it is properly aligned. 

File each of the rear bumperettes to a 
thinner cross section using a rattail 
needle file; this takes only 15 or 20 
minutes, and the improvement is no- 
ticeable. If the file won’t fit into the 
molded opening, twist it like a drill un- 
til it penetrates up to the handle, then 
use short strokes to remove plastic from 
the inside of the bumperettes. 

One common field-applied accessory 
on jeeps in northern Europę was a ver- 
tical wire cutter bar welded or bolted to 
the front bumper. Of the many booby 
traps left behind by the retreating Ger- 
mans, the thin decapitation wire strung 
across a road was one of the most feared, 
because jeeps were often driven with 
the windshields down. Wire cutter bars 
came in all shapes, and most were fash- 
ioned from Steel bars or angles, Figs. 18 
and 19. Figurę 20 shows four vari- 
ations, including the one I madę for my 
reconnaissance "peep.” 

Bullet holes. Unless you are model- 
ing a jeep hit by a 75 mm projectile, 
true scale-size bullet holes are rela- 
tively hard to see. A 1/35 scalę .30 cal. 
or 8 mm bullet hole should be only one 
one-hundredth of an inch (.010") in di- 
ameter, smaller than the smallest num- 
bered drill (No. 80), and barely visible. 
One place the holes will show up, how- 
ever, is in the windshield, and I added 
them to my second Tamiya jeep (the 
one with the in-between weathering). 
Drill a No. 76 or 77 hole for each bullet 
strike and scribe cracks, Fig. 21. Battle 
damage is easy to overdo, so keep the 
detail subtle. 

Paint and markings. Even though I 
planned to weather them heavily, my 
first step in finishing the jeeps was to 
paint each in factory-new condition with 
all service and tactical markings. Be¬ 
cause WWII U. S. vehicles were painted 
just one standard color — olive drab — 



Both photos, U S Army 


Figs. 18 and 19. These photos show the 
two most common forms of wire cutters. 
There were many other variations. 

I spray painted the models after as- 
sembly. 

In fact, the U. S. scheme is so monot- 
onous that it’s difficult to introduce 
color variations; all G. I. pioneer tools 
(shovel, ax, mattock) were painted ol- 
ive drab, and even the seat cushions 
and tool pouches were olive drab can- 
vas. To add just a little interest I fin- 
ished the pioneer tools to represent 



angle 


iron 

stock) 



FIG. 20 WIRE CUTTER BARS 



Alternate 
wire cutters 
(all from 


40 FineScale Modeler 





















Double hole with radial cracks and 
circular stress cracks 

Plain bullet hole 
with radial N 
cracks ^ 


Entry 

hole is 

smooth, 

some 

paint 

blown 

away 


FIG. 21 BULLET HOLES 



Fig. 22. Sprinkling sifted clay soil over the 
modei is an easy way to achieve realistic 
dust and dirt deposits. Scrubbing with a 
brush, shown here, is a technique also 
used with ground pastel chalk. 



Fig. 23. After the chalk powder and sifted 
dirt were applied and fixed with a elear fiat 
spray, Bruce painted on dried mud depos¬ 
its with straight-from-the-bottle fiat model 
paint (Humbrol). 



FINESCALE MODELER: A. L. Schmidt 

Fig. 24. The completed Italeri “peep” carries moderate dry and dusty weathering ef- 
fects with only thin dried mud deposits. No details are obscured. 


well-used items, with paint worn off 
the heads and handles, and painted the 
seat cushions an off shade of o.d. I madę 
the cushions a shade lighter than the 
vehicle, sińce new cushions were usu- 
ally lighter than the fresh paint, and 
faded faster, too. 

To simulate the jeep’s black instru¬ 
ment faces with white markings, under- 
paint the dials with white, let dry, then 
paint the dials black and scratch the 
markings through the top paint layer. 
Use gloss varnish to represent the glass 
over the dials. The rear lights and re- 
flectors were colored glossy plastic, and 
gloss varnish, used sparingly, will also 
reproduce this. 

The idea of scalę effect. An impor- 
tant concept in all model finishing, es- 
pecially weathering, is "scalę effect.” 
Simply stated, this means finishing the 
model so that it looks like the real 
thing at normal scalę uiewing distances. 
This means taking into account that as 
an observer moves farther from an ob- 
ject, its colors seem to fade and blend — 
color intensity and the contrasts be- 
tween colors apparently disappear. 

Viewing a 1/35 scalę model from one 
foot away is the equivalent of looking 
at the real thing from 35 feet away, two 
feet eąuals 70 feet, and so on, and if we 
wish to take this into account we should 
paint and weather models so they ap- 
pear as the real objects would from 
those scalę distances. This means that 
colors should be subdued. Light colors 
need not be darkened, but bright colors 



U S Army 


Fig. 25. Mud! Even sure-footed jeeps can 
get stuck. Notę the fresh deposits of 
darker wet mud on the lower parts of this 
jeep, and the offset wire cutter bar. 


should be grayed to reduce their inten¬ 
sity. All dark colors, especially black, 
should be lightened. 

Developing a “weathering history.” 
Before weathering the jeeps, I created 
an imaginary "history” for each model. 
This need not be long or involved, but 
before you start applying weathering 
effects you should have a elear idea of 
the vehicle’s imaginary recent use so 
your effects will be plausible. Give some 
thought to the imagined time of year, 
weather, type of terrain and soil, and 



the use of natural camouflage materials. 

In addition to materiał deposited on 
the vehicle — dust, mud, salt stains, 
and so forth — weathering involves the 
effects of paint fading and deteriora- 
tion. 01ive drab faded to various brown- 
olive or green-olive shades depending 
on the paint itself, the age of the vehi- 
cle, and its environment. Vehicles in 
northern Europę and Italy did not fade 
as rapidly as those in Africa or the Pa¬ 
cific theater, but older vehicles every- 
where looked pretty ratty. I aged the 



Figs. 26 and 27. The heavy mud on Bruce’s Willie-and-Joe jeep is a mixture of fine sifted 
clay soil and white glue. After mixing, the thick soil-and-glue mud was stippled onto the 
model with a brush, duplicating the patterns of mud deposits shown in photos. 


Fali 1982 41 






Figs. 28 and 29. After the mud mixture dried, the model was fin- 
ished with paint. A fiat enamel color representing dried mud was 


applied first (left, above), then a darker wet-mud color (right, 
above) was used on the thick, built-up mud. 



paint on these models before weather- 
ing them, using a combination of stan¬ 
dard airbrush, dry-brush, and pastel 
scrubbing techniąues. 

A dusty look for the “peep.” I first 
weathered the Italeri jeep, the one with 
the cross-kitted .50 cal. As I mentioned 
earlier, this model represents a recon- 
naissance jeep in France late in 1944, 
and the basie effects are those of dusty, 
dry weather. 

I started on the model with pastel 
chalks, then switched to real soil. Both 
worked fine. Ground-up pastel chalk 
sticks are especially good for represent¬ 
ing distinctive soils such as red and 
yellow clays and black or gray volcanic 
ash. Rub earth-colored pastel sticks on 
medium-grit sandpaper to make a pow- 
der, then apply it with a moderately 
stiff brush. I prefer a short camel hair 
or sable brush to bristle brushes, which 
can scratch the paint. 

Work the pastel powder into the sur- 
face of the model with a scrubbing ac- 
tion. By varying the pressure on the 
brush, various dust, dirt, and staining 
effects can be produced. The harder you 
scrub, the morę color is forced into the 
paint and the sharper the edges of the 
pastel-colored areas. 

Real soil works just like powdered 
pastels, maybe better. Ideally, soil used 
for weathering should have a high clay 
content. When dried thoroughly and 
sifted to remove pebbles and grains of 



Both photos. FINESCALE MODELER: A, L Schmidt 

Figs. 30 and 31. The completed Italian 
campaign jeep wears about the heaviest 
coating of mud you can get onto a jeep 
and still have it move. Few operational ve- 
hicles stayed this filthy for long. 


sand, clay soils can be ground into a 
fine powder. (The color is, of course, 
natural.) I sifted the soil directly onto 
the jeep, then shook off the excess, 
leaving a light coating of dust. Apply 
heavier dust coats by scrubbing the soil 
into the paint, as with pastels, Fig. 22. 

I fixed both the chalk dust and the 
soil to the model with a spray of elear 
fiat finish, then stippled earth-colored 
paint on the bumpers, sides, wheels 
and wheel wells, and hood to represent 
dried mud, Fig. 23. 

Weathering tires and windshields. 
An important aspect of the dusty brand 
of weathering used on the "peep” is the 
appearance of the tires. Tires have a 
rough, almost porous surface that holds 
dust and dirt, and on a dry, dusty road 
they will pick up morę dust and dirt on 
the tread than on the sidewalls, so the 
tread color will be lighter. On a clean 
or wet paved road, however, the tread 
will soon be scrubbed clean of most 
dust and dirt, and tread areas will have 
clean black rubber raised patterns. I 
chose the dry dirt road treatment, and 
stippled the same dried-mud color paint 
on the treads as I did on the rest of the 
jeep, leaving the sidewalls relatively 
clean. 

Finally, I masked the clean areas of 
the windshield with tape and treated it 
with the same chalk, dirt, and paint 
used on the rest of the vehicle, Fig. 24. 
Then I stopped weathering — which is 



one of the hardest but most important 
steps in the process. Always stop weath¬ 
ering before you think you have done 
enough, because it’s easy to get carried 
away — and removing overdone weath¬ 
ering is often next to impossible. 

Researching — of all things — wet 
mud. Next I reached for the Tamiya 
jeep with the top and the trailer, the 
one I planned to do as a mud-covered 
Willie-and-Joe special from the Italian 
front, Fig. 25. I checked my reference 
photos, then went looking for as many 
unwashed cars and trucks as I could 
find. Vehicles used off paved roads, 
such as pickup trucks and 4 x 4s, are 
especially worth studying. Try to find 
at least one vehicle with fresh mud de- 
posits so you can see the differences in 
color between wet and dry mud. Wet 
mud is always much darker — by sev- 
eral shades, in fact — than dry dirt or 
dust, and even yellowish-tan soil turns 
almost chocolate brown when wet. 

Mud buildup on wheels, tires, and 
body parts is deposited by splashing 
and splattering. The mud itself may be 
nearly dry clods of earth, a thin soupy 
slurry, or any consistency in between. 
A coating of thin mud looks like a 
sloppy paint job, while thicker, half-dry 
mud clods can build up layers several 
inches thick. Generally, in 1/35 scalę, 
the thickest layer of simulated mud 
should be no morę than thick. 

Modeling thick mud. Building up 
layers of mud reąuires a three-dimen- 
sional modeling techniąue, and IVe used 
several methods, among them: thick 
(unstirred) model paint; acrylic model¬ 
ing pastę; white glue; and mixtures of 
white glue or thick paint with thicken- 
ers such as talcum powder, cornstarch, 
or fine powdered dirt. Adding a lot of 
talcum or cornstarch to white glue usu- 
ally results in a "baked desert” ran- 
dom-cracked appearance, so if you try 
that method, don’t add too much. 

For the mud on my Willie-and-Joe 
jeep I used a mixture of white glue and 
finely sifted clay soil, Fig. 26. I applied 
the goop with a short brush, using a 
stippling techniąue, Fig. 27. After the 
mixture had dried I painted it to repre¬ 
sent a combination of wet and dried 


42 FineScale Modeler 



mud and to blend the heavy mud depos- 
its into the surface. 

I started painting by stippling the 
lighter dry-mud color over most of the 
upper portion of the jeep, Fig. 28, care- 
fully wiping it off the seats and steer- 
ing wheel where the mud would be 
worn off by the crew. To achieve a 
streaked look, I cleaned the segment of 
the windshield swept by the wiper by 
rubbing it with a wooden toothpick in a 
curved side-to-side motion. 

Next I stippled on the darker wet- 
mud color, always starting in the cen¬ 
ter of the wet area and stippling out to- 
ward the dry, Fig. 29. This blends the 
colors naturally. After painting, I gave 
the wet-mud areas a coating of elear, 
semigloss varnish to simulate mois- 
ture, Figs. 30 and 31. Remember that 
thick mud dries from the outside, and 
that water seeping from the wet inte¬ 
rior keeps the outer surface damp until 
all the moisture has evaporated. Don’t 
be tempted to make the'surface too 
glossy; in 1/35 scalę even sopping-wet 
mud would appear semigloss. 

The in-between jeep. The third jeep, 
the Tamiya model with the bullet holes, 
was weathered in about 30 minutes 
fiat. This vehicle represents one that 
has been through muddy country, but 
it doesn’t have the heavy buildup of the 
version from the Italian campaign. 

After dusting the model with sifted 
soil, I applied thinned white glue to 
areas that were to represent dry mud 
and dumped fine soil over the glue, 
shaking off the excess. Then, without 
waiting for anything to dry, I madę a 
mixture of fine soil and white glue, and 
applied it to simulate damp mud. When 
the white glue dried the damp mud re- 
mained a suitably darker shade, so no 
painting was reąuired, Fig. 32. 

Did I enjoy building and weathering 
three jeeps? Surę did, and I hope they’ll 
spark you to try similar projects and 
develop your own distinctive modeling 
techniąues. If nothing else, finishing 
these three similar models in three dif- 
ferent ways proves that there’s no sin¬ 
gle "right” way to do anything in 
modeling. FSM 



FINESCALE MODELER: A. L. Schmidt 


Fig. 32. The third jeep was also weathered 
with white glue and sifted soil, but the 
mud coating was not painted after ap- 
plication. The effect is slightly different. 




1930’s AMERICAN DIMESTORE SOLDIERS 

& 

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Manufactured from the Original Old Factory Molds A 
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Also military vehicles, Autos, Trucks, Racers, Christmas figures. tents 
and repair parts. Over 100 items manufactured and sold direct to 
Modelers & Collectors. V 

Visit our Show Room: Mail Orders: 

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c BADQEI {... 

c lbols to łjelpyOu 
filjish likg a ptó. 

The BADGER Model 200 IL is the perfect tool for 
finishing scalę models. You can blend, shade 
and stipple... achieve special effects 
. such as camouflage, smoke, fire and 
weather damage, etc. 

BADGER’S Foto/Frisket Film is 
ideał for pre-cut stencils and masks. 

It can be used on most surfaces that 
are to be painted thus preventing under- 
spray. Great for camouflage techniques. 

Available in sheets and rolls. 

BADGER’S Fluid Filter is designed for 
use with air-brushes that use jars or 
bottles. The microscreen filter elimi- 
nates lumpy paint or foreign particles 
that normally pass through the air- 
brush and cause plugging. The Fluid 
Filter slides on and off easily for quick 
cleaning. 

Youll find these tips and much morę in 
BADGER‘S Hobby and Craft Guide to 
Air-Brushing. 

Ask for BADGER products at your local 
hobby, craft oi art storę or write Dept. 

855 for Catalog BA300. Please enclose 
SI.00 to cover cost of postage and 
handling. 

Prices slightly higher in Canada. 


Two camouflage tips are shown here: 


1. Using a mask as shown, spray 
through the openings, move the 
mask over the next area to be 
sprayed. Hołd the mask at least 
V2" from surface for a soft edge 
effect. 


2. Another way to achieve the 
mottled effect is by free-hand 
spraying. Set the spray width to 
fine and hołd the air-brush close 
to the surface using tight, erratic 
hand motions. 


BADGER AIR-BRUSH CO. 9128 Belmont Ave.«Franklin Park, III. 60131 
Dist. in Canada by: HOBBY INDUSTRIES 24 Ronson Drive- Rexdale, Ontario M9W1B4 © BACo. 1981 


Fali 1982 43 

















CIUDAD JUAREZ 


Good proportions, smooth surface, atten- 
tion to details, and the fine wire wheels 
make it impossible to tell the scalę from 
the photograph. The model is about three 
inches long. 


Building your first 
cast-metal car kit 

A 1/43 scalę Mexican Road Race Ferrari 


BY WAYNE E. MOYER 


A LTHOUGH IT WAS ONLY run 
i from 1950 through 1954, the Car- 
rera Pan American de Mexico, better 
known as the Mexican Road Race, may 
have been the most difficult race of its 
time. It was certainly the most under- 
rated. 

About the Mexican Road Race. On 

paper it looked simple—just drive up 
the Pan American Highway from the 
Southern border of Mexico to the north- 
ern border faster than anyone else. 
Sort of a legał, crosswise Cannonball 
Rally. To make it easier (and give time 
to fix the cars), it was broken into eight 
stages over a period of five days so the 
drivers got the afternoons and evenings 
off. Piece of cake, right? 


Weil, for starters, it was almost twice 
as long as the similar but famous Mille 
Miglia — 1,934 miles compared to 1,000. 
The road, miserable in places, rosę from 
sea level to morę than 10,000 feet and 
back down again. 

Unlike other mountain courses (Tar¬ 
ga Florio or Nurburgring) there wasn’t 
much chance to learn the course. It was 
just one-way, up and down, from Tuxtla 
Gutierrez to Ciudad Juarez. The first 
day’s run alone had morę than 3,800 
turns. Le Mans goes on for 24 hours 
straight, and has the famous long Mul- 
sanne Straight. But at Le Mans, the 
object is to finish the 24 hours as slowly 
as you can and still win. In Mexico, it 
was to be first. Period. Nothing else 
counted. 

There were several straights of ten 
miles or morę where the big sports cars 


ran flat-out at 170 mph. A mistake 
could put you airborne off a mountain 
switchback. Only the strong entered, 
and the strongest won. 

Because the race was relatively un- 
known, fuli factory teams were few and 
far between in the sports car class. 
Most of the cars were private entries 
driven by amateurs. In 1953, two young 
Californians, Phil Hill and Richie Gin- 
ther, combined to drive a 4.1 Ferrari 
entered by Alan Guilberson. Their 
course reconnaissance consisted of 
driving the car down to the starting 
point. They soon madę the inevitable 
mistake and took a backwards trip 
down a rocky mountainside. 

Undaunted, Guilberson bought a Vig- 
nalle-bodied 375MM roadster (in fact, 
the factory car that won the 1953 Niir- 
burgring race) from Ferrari. With a 
displacement of 4.5 liters and 340 horse- 
power, it was a car to go racing with, 
and with Hill driving and Ginther nav- 
igating, the pair entered the 1954 race. 
They finished second overall, only 24 
minutes behind Maglioli’s factory-en- 
tered Ferrari. The drive so impressed 
Ferrari that Hill was later offered a 
place on the Ferrari team: The rest is 
history. 

F.D.S kit No. 67. The only kit of the 
Mexican Road Race Ferrari is the F.D.S. 


44 FineScale Modeler 



F. D. S. - AUTOmodelli . 

MŁTAL KITS SCALA U) PER COLIE/lONlSTi 


N.67 FERRARI 375MM 1954 

CARRERA PANAMERICANA 


CAł«Mf'»A f’A f .Af/LHl 

V-'-' ' 






. ^ 


Fig. 1. Components of the F.D.S. Ferrari 
kit. It’s not a complex kit; simplicity, good 
castings, instructions, and decals make it 
an excellent first cast-metal model. 

Fig. 2. Everything you need to build the 
model: X-acto knife and files, wet-or-dry 
sandpaper, putty, and primer. 


No. 67 cast-metal kit in 1/43 scalę.* It’s 
a very nice kit, with few parts, good 
castings, and good decals, Fig. 1. Build- 
ing a cast-metal kit is no different than 
building in plastic — the tools and tech- 
niąues are the same, you just apply 
them a bit differently, Fig. 2. 


*Available from Auto Racing Miniatures, 8401 
Osuną Road N.E., Suitę C, Albuquerque, NM 
87111, for $20.00. A.R.M. carries the fuli linę of 
F.D.S. kits, as well as many other cast-metal race 
car kits, and offers a building service as well. 

In Canada, Mini-Grid, 70 Pebblehill Square, 
Scarborough, ON MIS 2P7 handles the fuli linę of 
F.D.S. decals and kits. 





Fig. 3. The mold linę running around the body (above the file 
point) must be removed — needle files in yarious shapes work 
well for this operation. 


Fig. 4. The body casting after filing. The next step is sanding 
with No. 320 wet-or-dry sandpaper. 


Fali 1982 45 

















Fig. 5. Sand the filed areas smooth, and wet sand the entire 
body. Wash thoroughly, and it’s ready to be primed. 




Fig. 6. The łirst primer coat will reveal some surface blemishes. 
Here Duratite Plastic Surfacing Putty is being applied to a deep 
spot with a palette knife. 


✓ 



Fig. 7. Shallow blemishes are easily filled with a brush load of 
thick Du Pont primer. 


Fig. 8. When the body is thoroughly wet sanded, primer will re- 
main in the Iow spots, filling them nicely. Now prime again. 



Fig. 9. After you’ve got a smooth primer coat, spray the interior 
fiat black and mask it off. 



Fig. 10. Mask the black areas of the interior and spray the cock¬ 
pit with Humbrol Leather. 


Cleaning the parts. The first step in 
building a metal kit is to clean up the 
castings, Fig. 3. There are usually mold 
lines to remove, and if the mold was 
overfilled, there may be flash, Fig. 4. 
Mold lines should be filed off — X-acto 
makes files in various shapes that work 
well. The metal is soft, so take care not 
to remove too much. After filing, sand 
with No. 320 and No. 400 sandpaper to 
smooth the file marks and restore con- 
tours, Fig. 5. Flash can be trimmed off 
with a modeling knife. I save old blades 
because those that are too duli for plas¬ 
tic still cut the soft metal ąuite well. 

Once the parts are cleaned up, check 


the major pieces for fit. On some kits 
you may have to do a bit of filing or 
bending to get a good fit — but be surę 
to allow for the thickness of the primer 
and paint coats. Everything fit well on 
the F.D.S. Ferrari, but the fin was 
bent. No problem; just bend it back un- 
til it’s straight. Unlike plastic, the metal 
will stay bent, just where you want it, 
forever. 

Primers and fillers. Once you’re sat- 
isfied with the condition of the parts, 
wash everything thoroughly with de¬ 
tergent and hot water to remove mold 
release oil and sanding dust. This step 
is important; do it right. Rinse the 


model, let dry, and apply a coat of 
metal primer. I use Floąuil R601 Zinc 
Chromate because it fills and sands so 
well, but if you don’t have an airbrush, 
a spray can primer (Tempo, for in- 
stance) will do, but will reąuire morę 
sanding to get a smooth finish. 

That first primer coat will show lots 
of nicks, scratches, and blemishes on 
what you thought was a smooth sur¬ 
face. Shallow pits and file scratches can 
be eliminated by simply sanding the 
area down to bare metal — the primer 
will remain in the blemish and fili it. 
Deeper spots should be filled with thick 
primer and sanded smooth. Du Pont 


46 FineScale Modeler 




Fig. 11. The interior is masked, the body is mounted on a bent 
coat hanger spray stand, and Testor gloss white paint applied. 
Let the paint dry for several days. 


Fig. 12. After the lower panels are painted, brush on a coat of Fu¬ 
turę (or spray on a elear high-gloss varnish) and apply the de- 
cals. Notę that the chrome strip goes on before the decals. 





A good kit and a few hours of patient work yield a model that compares favorably to any 
factory-built product. 


Fig. 13. The assembled chassis. Seats are 
painted Humbrol Leather and then buffed 
to a sheen. Cut axles by the fit-and-try 
method to get the wheels inside the body, 
then attach with Hot Stuff Super T. 



Fig. 14. The F.D.S. kit wire wheels (left) are 
nicely cast and chromed, but the Preci- 
sion Miniatures photoetched Boranni wire 
spoke wheels (right) are much morę deli- 
cate and realistic. 

lacąuer primer is very thick (I dab it on 
with a smali brush), dries ąuickly, and 
sands easily. Really deep spots should 
be filled with your favorite body putty 
and sanded — if you removed too much 
metal with the file, build the contours 
up with putty, too, Figs. 6 and 7. 

After sanding, wash the body, spray 
on another coat of primer, and inspect 
it carefully. If any blemishes or uneven 
spots remain, wet sand with No. 600 
sandpaper and prime again. Repeat this 
process until the body is smooth — a 
smooth primer coat is the secret to that 


smooth, glassy finish, Fig. 8. Inciden- 
tally, I usually switch to Floąuil R9 
Primer (gray) for the finał coat as it’s 
harder and morę durable than the Zinc 
Chromate. 

Color coats. I sprayed the body inte¬ 
rior and both sides of the chassis piąte 
with fiat black. When that dried, the 
interior was masked and the cockpit 
sides and seats were sprayed with Hum¬ 
brol Leather, Figs. 9 and 10. That, 
when dry, was gently buffed with a soft 
cloth to. produce a realistic leather lus¬ 
ter. The cockpit was then masked and 
the body taped to a bent coat hanger 
support for spraying the white exterior 
finish, Fig. 11.1 airbrushed Testor Gloss 
White overall, but a spray can could be 
used here too. I allowed the white to 
dry several days, then painted the 
lower portion of the body dark gloss 
blue. The chrome strip madę an excel- 


lent dividing linę for masking here. 

When all the paint was dry, I applied 
a coat of Futurę floor wax with a Q-tip. 
Futurę dries ąuickly, has a high gloss, 
and protects the paint from smudges 
and fingerprints — they just wipe off. 
While it was drying, I picked out the 
engine and exhaust detail with Pactra 
Steel and Fiat Aluminum. 

The next step on this model was to 
cover the chrome trim strip around the 
body with Barę Metal Foil.* There’s no 
way silver paint can do this job as well. 
When the body is dry (it’s still on the 
spray stand), apply the decals and do 
any trim painting, then apply another 
coat of Futurę to seal and protect the 
decals, Fig. 12. 

Finał assembly. Finał assembly is 


*Bare Metal Foil and Hobby Co., 19419 Ingram, 
Livonia, MI 48152. 


Fali 1982 47 














M 102 

STONE FARMHOUSE 

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CAST IN PLASTER IN E3 SECTlONS 
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A tool designed for modelers who work with 
sheet materiał such as styrene plastic. Cut 
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anything where you need mae than one of 
the same size part. 


THE DUPLICITTER 52 4 $16.95 


Northwest Short Linę 

BOX 423 SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 98111 



Meet Wayne Moyer 

Age 41, married, with four daugh- 
ters, Wayne Moyer is an aerospace 
engineer at Wright Patterson Air 
Force Base where he’s engaged in 
preliminary design projects. "I can’t 
remember when I wasn’t interested 
in airplanes, and l’ve been building 
models sińce anyone would trust me 
with a knife,” he reports. 

Wayne started building car models 
in high school but became really in¬ 
terested in sports and road racing 
cars while a student at the University 
of Cincinnati. He’s been building 1/43 
scalę cars ever sińce John Day’s first 
cast-metal kit appeared in 1970 and 
his collection now includes almost 
4001/43 scalę cars (as well as 300 1/72 
scalę aircraft). He has been a mem- 
ber of IPMS sińce 1966 and is active 
in the Dayton Area Plastic Modelers 
chapter. 

Wayne says he also enjoys driving 
sports cars and flying private air¬ 
craft; he’s an instrument-rated pilot. 


simple, Fig. 13. I use Hot Stuff for all 
glue joints — it’s the best instant glue 
I’ve found for modelbuilding. Hot Stuff 
Super T is excellent for attaching smali 
parts — headlights, mirrors, and so on. 
Even the elear windshield can be glued 
in place with Hot Stuff if you use smali 
amounts. Too much, and the elear plas¬ 
tic will turn milky, but a coat of Futurę 
will usually elear up the plastic again. 

The chrome grille can be improved 
by painting it with Polly S Fiat Black, 
then wiping most of the paint off the 
"egg crate” with a damp cloth. The kit 
wire wheels are good castings that are 
nicely chromed. The instrument panel 
should be painted fiat black with gloss 
black instruments and white markings. 
The steering wheel has silver spokes, 
fiat black shaft, and a gloss brown rim. 

Superdetailing parts. Built right out 
of the box, the kit produces an excellent 
model of the Ferrari that started Phil 
Hill’s career, but there are a couple of 
superdetailing additions that can en- 
hance the model. Precision Miniatures 
makes a set of photoetched Boranni 
wire spoke wheels (P.M. 104), Fig. 14.* 
They are easy to assemble (use Hot 
Stuff sparingly) and add something to 
any model, most especially to a Ferrari. 
The double-row wire spokes just can’t 
be done this finely by casting. F.D.S. 
also makes a decal sheet of Ferrari 
badges and instrument decals, which I 
used instead of hand painting the in¬ 
struments. They add a touch of realism 
to an open cockpit car that’s difficult to 
achieve by painting. 

Welcome to the world of cast-metal 
modeling. Whateyer your automotive 
interest, there’s a kit for you! FSM 


*Available for $5.75 from Marąue Products, 635 
Paularino Avenue, Costa Mesa, CA 92626. 


48 FineScale Modeler 




























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FREE Italeri 
Gigant Kit 


MESSERSCHMITT 
Me 321 B-1 GIGA! 


Please send me._867 Zwilling(s) at $10.00 and the same 

number ol 665 Gigant(s) FREE. 

Total I am ordersng mmm __ 


Plus $2.00 Shipping & Handling (Texas 
Residents: Add 5% Sales Tax, Please) 
Total Amounl Enclosed or Charged 


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1115 Crowley Drive 
Carrollton, Texas 75006 


Due to a serious inventory error, we just 
discovered a bunch of discontinued Testors-ltaleri 
Gigant and Zwilling Kits that we thought we had 
sold. 

We urgently have to get rid of these kits to make 
room for all of the new merchandise we have on 
order, so we are giving away FREE, a $16.00 
Gigant Kit with the purchase of the $10.00 Zwill¬ 
ing. (Sorry! Limit two per customer). 

Thousands of these kits were sold at fuli price, 
so we know just how popular they are. If you want 
your FREE Gigant, order early. The manufacturer 
has discontinued both kits, so once they are gone, 
there will be no morę. And, we need the space TO¬ 
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Binks Raven and Wren airbrushes are used by artists and craftsmen across the country for 
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Realistic weathering 
for older trucks 

Ninę techniques you can use to age any model 

Models and techniques by JOHN MAHAFFEY 
Text and photos by JACK GURNER 


M ANY OF THE TRUCK models 
seen in contests or on display 
look cleaner and newer than their full- 
size counterparts just off the assembly 
linę. There’s not a speck of dust, drop of 
oil, or patch of rust anywhere on these 
immaculate miniatures. However, a few 
modelers are beginning to take a morę 
realistic approach by showing the ef- 
fects of wear and tear. 

Research. Just as with other types 
of modeling, research is the key to 
achieving realism. While aircraft or ar- 
mor modelers visit military bases or 
museums, I go to truck stops and junk- 
yards. A camera can just as easily re- 
cord the detail of a modern naval vessel 
or the workings of a Peterbilt. Plenty of 
books and magazines are also available 
for vehicle enthusiasts. 

The age of a vehicle, the amount of 
use, and the type of maintenance are 


all factors that determine how a truck 
looks. The techniąues presented here 
have been used to represent well-worn 
vehicles. However, simply by varying 
the application, the techniąues can be 
used to simulate any degree of wear. 

Bends and dents. Apply bends and 
dents to the model early in construc- 
tion. Use heat to soften the plastic: 
Good heat sources include candles, sol- 
dering irons, hot knives, and even hot 
water. Whichever source you choose, be 
safety conscious and don’t let the heat 
warp the plastic. Once the materiał be- 
comes flexible, make bends and dents 
with the blunt end of a hobby knife or 
the rounded portion of a pair of tweez- 
ers. For badly damaged areas, tear and 
twist the plastic with needle-nose pliers. 

Rust holes. Simulate rusting-through 
by first drilling smali holes where the 
rusted-out areas are to be. Then thin 


This 1/25 scalę 1953 Ford pickup was con- 
verted to a wrecker and weathered with 
all the techniąues explained in the text. 



Meet John Mahaffey 

John Mahaffey, 35, of Memphis, 
Tennessee, has been modeling sińce 
1953, and has specialized for the last 
15 years in trucks (especially 1950s- 
era Ford pickups) and custom autos. 
He recently won Scalę Auto Enthusi- 
ast magazine’s 1982 Truck Modeler 
of the Year award for the 1953 Ford 
F-100 wrecker shown above. He’s a 
past president of the Memphis Scalę 
Modeler’s Association. 

Married, with three children, John 
works for Holiday Inn. 


the plastic from behind using a motor 
tool with a high-speed steel cutter such 
as Dremel 141 or 144. Freąuent stops 
will ensure that the plastic doesn’t over- 
heat and melt. Once the materiał is 
thinned to the point of translucency, 
push in with a blunt tool to create rag- 
ged holes. 


Fali 1982 51 






The left front tender of a tractor. The tom 
and rusted effect was created by thinning 
the materiał with a motor tool equipped 
with a high-speed Steel cutter and then 
tearing the thinned plastic with needle- 
nose pliers. 




This wrecker was built from a ’60s 1/25 scalę AMT 1953 Ford pickup; the dents were 
madę by heating the plastic and using the rounded end of a pair of tweezers to depress 
the softened materiał. 


The clumps of rust on the fifth wheel were 
created by sprinkling real rust onto areas 
painted with a 50-50 mixture of white glue 
and water. The tire treads were “worn” 
with 600-grit sandpaper. The inside tire on 
the left has a molding defect that resem- 
bles an actual worn tire defect and adds 
to the realism. 



The almost-gone Bardahl sign is a decal 
that was applied as usual and then cov- 
ered with tape which was pulled off, re- 
moving most of the decal. 



Worn paint. Trucks are often repaint- 
ed several times over the years and 
various colors show through at worn 
spots. Duplicate this effect by applying 
several coats of paint to the model. The 
base coat should be a rust color: Sev- 
eral brands of weathering paint are 
available in aerosol cans or bottles. 
Brush painting is acceptable because 


any flaws will add to the realism rather 
than detract from it. 

The second coat should be a stock 
color for the type of truck you are mod- 
eling. Let the second coat dry thor- 
oughly, then wet sand the model with 
600 grit paper to expose some of the 
rust color, especially in areas that are 
subject to the most wear. Add morę col¬ 


ors and repeat the wet sanding proce¬ 
durę to reveal the layers of paint and 
the rust underneath. 

Although one rust color is adeąuate 
for the base coat, use a wide selection of 
shades for detailing and bear in mind 
that many of the commercially pre- 
pared rust shades are a little too light 
to be realistic. Two non-weathering col- 


52 FineScale Modeler 















The broken rear window on this tractor 
was simulated by using bits of glass from 
a broken microscope slide cover. 


ors that represent rust nicely are Pac- 
tra’s Hull Red (IN61) and Floquil’s Box- 
car Red (R74). 

Real rust. Real honest-to-goodness 
rust can be used to simulate clumps on 
extremely rusted areas. Dilute white 
glue such as Elmer’s Glue-All with an 
equal amount of water and apply the 
diluted glue to the desired area. Then 
sprinkle finely powdered rust over the 
glue. Once dry, simply blow off any 
excess. 

Worn signs. Many trucks have com¬ 
pany names, slogans, or advertisements 
painted on their sides. Waterslide de- 
cals are often provided in kits to repre¬ 
sent these signs. Usually only bits and 
pieces are still visible on older trucks. 
To simulate this effect, apply the decal 
as usual and let it dry thoroughly. 
Then press a piece of tape over the de¬ 
cal and puli the tape off. The tape will 
pick up part of the decal and leave scat- 
tered bits of it attached to the model. 
Older, brittle decals work best for this 
technique. 

Real glass. One method for simulat- 
ing smali areas of broken glass on a ve- 
hicle is to use microscope slide covers. 
(Those distributed by The Perfect Parts 
Company are often sold in hobby shops.) 
Cover both sides of the slide cover with 
tape and then strike it with a hammer. 
Puli one side of the tape loose and ex- 
amine the bits. It may take several at- 
tempts to get broken bits that look 
right. BE CAREFUL: You are dealing 
with real broken glass. Attach the bits 
with white glue. 

Tom seats. The effect of a worn-out 
seat can be accomplished by cutting out 
a section of the seat on the driver’s side. 
Then paint the seat with white glue 
diluted 50 percent with water and cover 
the cut-out section with facial tissue. 
The seat covering will sag realistically. 
The effect can be heightened by slitting 
the covering and adding a few bits of 
foam rubber and a spring from an HO 
railroad car truck. 

Worn tires. A well-worn truck usu¬ 
ally has well-wom tires. Tire wear can 
be simulated by going over the tread 
with 600-grit sandpaper. Many model 
tires have molding defects that closely 
match the defects in worn full-size 
tires, an added bonus. While on the 



This tractor is built from the same kit used for the wrecker shown on page 52, but 
widened five scalę inches with the frame from a recent AMT Mack kit. The tractor’s 
wheels are from an IMC tilt-cab Dodge. 


subject, 1/35 scalę two-and-one-half ton 
truck tires are usable as standard mud 
grips in 1/25 scalę. 

Although the techniques described 
here are aimed at truck modelers, they 


can be adapted for use in other types of 
modeling: The main thing is to keep an 
open mind so that you won’t overlook 
information that can improve your 
skills. FSM 



Western Tennessee-colored weathering adds to the homely appeal of a real junker. 


Fali 1982 53 
















Ali photos. FINESCALE MODELER: A. L Schmidt 


Dennis modeled a C version of the MBB BO 105 in the markings and camouflage pat- 
terns of the Sudanese armed forces. He opened up the cockpit doors and cargo com- 
partment clamshell doors and added accessories such as a rearview mirror. 



Fig. 1. Using a hot knife, Dennis cut out the 
doors from each side of the fuselage. The 
knife blade must be very hot, and only the 
tip of the blade must be used, or the plas- 
tic will become mushy. Smooth the cut 
edges with No. 400 sandpaper. 



Fig. 2. For a cleaner appearance, remove 
the ridges inside the window openings. 


Modeling Ludwig Bólkow’s 
versatile MBB BO 105 helicopter 

Minor modifications to an excellent kit produce a 1/48 scalę prizewinner 


BY DENNIS MOORE 


B ACK IN 1979 when I built my first 
helicopter, there was only a hand- 
ful of chopper kits on the market. Since 
that time, a deluge of helicopters has 
hit the shelves in 1/144, 1/72, and 1/48 
scales. The company that has Ted the 
field in this area is Fujimi, which has 
produced many of the world’s morę fa- 
mous helicopters in all of these scales. 

Fujimi’ś 1/48 scalę model of the Mes- 
serschmitt-Bólkow-Blohm BO 105 ap- 
peared on the market in 1980 and has 
sińce been released in seyeral other 1/48 
scalę versions. Fortunately, at about 
the time that I built this kit (Fujimi 
No. 5A-35) for the 1980 IPMS National 


Convention, an excellent article about 
the BO 105 appeared in Vol. 16, No. 5, 
of Air International. This article was a 
godsend, because you discover ąuickly 
when you begin to build helicopters se- 
riously that there is little documenta- 
tion on them. 

About the BO 105. The MBB BO 105 

is a five-passenger turboshaft helicopter 
that was designed in Germany during 
the 1960s and early 1970s by a team 
headed by Ludwig Bólkow, who had a 
hand in the development of such planes 
as the Me 109K and the Me 262. The 
BO 105 was conceived as a light pas- 
senger and cargo carrier, replacing the 
venerable Alouette II in that role in a 
number of countries, and has also been 
developed as a ground-support aircraft 


able to handle Hot missiles and un- 
guided air-to-ground rockets. 

Having a taste for aircraft in exotic 
camouflage and markings, I chose the 
C version of the aircraft that has been 
purchased recently by the Sudanese 
armed forces. Since I planned to take 
this model into competition, I first sat 
down with all of the drawings and pic- 
tures of the BO 105 I could find and 
prepared a list of modifications and ad- 
ditions I could make. I’ve found that 
this kind of checklist helps to solidify 
my thoughts and ensures that I don’t 
forget anything during construction. 

Fuselage modifications. The BO 105 
has a cargo compartment with clam¬ 
shell doors, and I decided to begin con¬ 
struction by cutting these doors away 


54 FineScale Modeler 




















Fig. 3. Dennis removed the cast seat belts from the front and 
rear seats and, using kit parts as templates, scratchbuilt a roof 
and bulkhead for the cargo compartment. 




Fig. 4. The realistically folded seat belts are madę of black vinyl 
electrician’s tape with silver buckles. 


Fig. 5. The main rotor assembly is built straight out of the box 
and is painted with Liqu-a-plate metallic finishes left unsealed. 


from the fuselage, Fig. 1. I used a hot 
knife tipped with a No. 11 X-acto blade. 
I suggest that you make surę that the 
blade is good and hot before making 
the cut, sińce this will allow you to use 
just the tip of the blade. This is impor- 
tant because too great a contact with 
the heated blade will leave a large lip 
of melted plastic on the fuselage and 
the doors. 

Once the doors had been cut free, I 
removed the smali lip that had formed 
with an abrasive point on my Dremel 
Moto-Tool and with No. 400 wet-or-dry 
sandpaper used wet. I used exactly the 
same method to remove the front doors 
on the fuselage so that the cockpit could 
be viewed morę easily. 

You will also notice that all of the fu¬ 
selage window openings have molded 
tabs on them to allow easy window in- 
stallation, Fig. 2. These should be re- 
moved because they are unsightly and 
the Windows can be installed without 
them. 

Part No. 1, the cockpit floor, extends 
to the very back of the fuselage and can 


serve as the floor for the cargo compart¬ 
ment. If you want to construct a roof to 
the compartment as I did, you can use 
part No. 1 as a template for making the 
reąuired piece from sheet styrene, Fig. 3. 
You will also want to construct a bulk¬ 
head between the flight compartment 
and the cargo area by tracing the back- 
seat headrest, part No. 15. Set these 
scratchbuilt components aside for the 
time being as we move on to the cockpit. 

Cockpit modifications. As you ex- 
amine the cockpit components, you will 
notice that the front seats have belts 
molded into the plastic. These are to 
scalę and can be used, but I chose to 
grind them down with an abrasive tip, 
follow up with some careful sanding, 
and install individual belts of my own. 

The designers of this kit paid lots of 
attention to detail, the cockpit being no 
exception. I used all the parts provided, 
finding only the rotor brake handle 
missing, which can be constructed easily 
from a thick piece of stretched sprue 
and installed on the right side of the pi- 
lot’s seat. Make surę that you remove 


all mold marks from these pieces before 
painting. A fine abrasive point and 
your Dremel will make this step a lot 
ąuicker and easier, although you will 
still want to resort to fine sanding as a 
finał step. Removing mold marks is a 
must in all phases of construction. 

I ignored the kit painting instruc- 
tions for the cockpit, painting most of it 
Pactra International Colors RLM Gray 
with the exception of the dash console, 
fire extinguisher, seats, and control han- 
dles. Helicopter control handles usually 
sport several control buttons which can 
be shown with red, yellow, and white 
paint. 

I constructed the seat belts for the 
flight compartment from black plastic 
electrical tape, Fig. 4.1 prefer electrical 
tape because it will stay in place, al- 
lowing me to duplicate the bends and 
twists found in the real item. To ensure 
that the tape doesn’t come up later, I se- 
cure the belts with smali amounts of 
white glue thinned with water and ap- 
plied with a 0000 brush. 

The buckles on the belts can be simu- 


Fall 1982 55 







Fig. 6. Be prepared for a long search for decals when modeling 
planes used by smali air forces. The Arabie numbers are from a 
Microscale decal set for MiG 17s and 19s; the Sudanese roun- 
dels are from E.S.C.I. 


Fig. 7. A scratchbuilt windshield wiper and a rearview mlrror add 
visual interest to the BO 105. 



lated with silver paint. Since a cut- 
away drawing in the Air International 
article shows seat and shoulder belts in 
the front seats and three pairs of seat 
belts on the rear seat, I installed them 
in the appropriate positions. 

The kit comes with a set of decals 
that includes a dash console front. To 
make surę it fits, trim and dry-fit this 
decal before you soak it. 

Rotor assemblies. Having completed 
the flight compartment, you can move 
on to construction of the main rotor hub 
assembly and the main rotor, Fig. 5. 
Just follow the diagram provided in 
step 2 on the plans and you will have 
no problems. I again ignored the paint- 
ing instructions and painted the rotor 
hub assembly with Liqu-a-plate Steel 
and the rotor blades with Liqu-a-plate 


Meet Dennis Moore 

Dennis Moore is a graduate of the 
University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee 
with a master’s degree in United 
States diplomatic history. He i$ 
chairman of the social studies de- 
partment at Franklin High School, in 
Franklin, Wisconsin, a suburb of 
Milwaukee. 

His aireraft and ships have brought 
him many awards in invitational, re- 
gional, and national IPMS competi- 
tions; a first grand prize in the Mil¬ 
waukee Navy Contest; and the judges’ 
advanced category best of show in 
the 1981 Manitowoc Maritime Muse- 
um’s ship modeling contest. 

Dennis is also active in the Richard 
I. Bong Chapter of IPMS, Milwaukee. 


Aluminum.* These two colors provided 
a realistic match with the shades shown 
in my reference materiał, so I used the 
same natural metal colors on corre- 
sponding components in the taił rotor 
system. 

I don’t like the look of Liqu-a-plate 
after it has been treated with Liqu-a- 
plate sealer, so I omit the sealer and let 
the plated pieces dry for at least 24 
hours. Then I always wash my hands 
before handling the parts to make surę 
I don’t leave fingerprints. 

Finał assembly. The roughest step 
in the construction of this model was 
fitting the flight compartment, scratch¬ 
built cargo compartment components, 
rotor assembly hub, aft exhaust mount, 
and air intake shield into place. This 
required extra time and dry-fitting be¬ 
fore actual gluing. Once the fuselage 
halves were cemented together and the 
plastic along the joints had hardened, I 
wet sanded the seam. 

I used Duratite Plastic Surfacing Put- 
ty to putty the gap between the floor of 
the cargo compartment and the fuse¬ 
lage shell. This brand of putty dries 
quickly and does not shrink, and after 
it dries overnight, it can be sanded and 
shaped to the right contours. Next, I 
added the skids, taił handles, horizon- 
tal stabilizers, taił radio dome, and air 
intake, and prepared for painting. 

Exterior painting. Since most Sudan¬ 
ese aireraft employ a desert scheme, 
that’s what I used as my camouflage 
pattern. Before painting, I masked off 
the rotor hub. I started by spraying the 
aft exhaust mount aluminum and the 
cargo bay, fuselage doors, and cargo 
doors RLM Gray. Next, I masked the 
cockpit and painted all topside surfaces 
with Pactra International Colors Ger¬ 
man Desert Sand, including part No. 
32, the flight compartment roof. The 
lower section of the piane was painted 
with Pactra German Light Blue, in¬ 
cluding part No. 48, the air spoiler. 

*Liqu-a-plate products are sold by Archer’s Hobby 
World, 18320 Ward Street, Fountain Valley, CA 

92708. 


All of these desert schemes have an 
uneven, soft break between the top side 
and bottom side colors, so I carefully 
masked and retouched this area. Fi- 
nally, I applied the Pactra Interna¬ 
tional Colors German Dark Green and 
Italian Gray. 

At this point I applied the decals to 
the fuselage, Fig. 6. I used E.S.C.I. 
Sudanese roundels and taił flashes.** I 
employed part of the Microscale sys¬ 
tem, applying a coat of gloss before 
mounting. Since these decals are in- 
clined to silver badly, trim the elear 
edges before soaking. Make surę that 
you position these decals so that they 
don’t sit on rivets or panel lines, be- 
cause they are thick and do not settle 
well. I also suggest a thin coat of di- 
luted Elmer’s Glue-All on the back of 
each decal before mounting to prevent 

**E.S.C.I. decals are usually available from 
Sąuadron Mail Order, 1115 Crowley Drive, 
Carrollton, TX 75006. The Sudanese set is No. 
102 . 



Fig. 8. The lens on the light at the rear 
rotor assembly is madę from Microscale 
Kristal-Kleer dyed with food coloring. 



56 FineScale Modeler 













Fig. 10. The cargo net is a piece of gauze bandage painted khaki. 


curling. Don’t use Solvaset or Micro 
Set: E.S.C.I. decals react unpredictably 
to solvent-type setting agents. 

The Arabie numbers are from Micro- 
scale (set No. 72-102, MiG 17 and 19), 
applied using the Microscale system 
explained on all Microscale sets. Once 
the decals dried, I washed them and 
oversprayed the entire aireraft with 
Micro Fiat, taking care to get as little 
as possible on the main rotor mount. 

Windows. Before installing any of 
the Windows, make surę that they are 
free of scratches or abrasions. If there 
is a problem, first sand the damaged 
area with No. 600 wet-or-dry sandpa- 
per used wet, then buff with a Q-tip and 
a plastic polish such as Blue Magie. To 
simulate the tinted Windows, I applied 
a thin coating of Sobo (a white craft 
glue sold in most craft Stores and many 
hobby shops) mixed with water and 
blue food coloring over the underside. 
Don’t add too much coloring or the mix 
will dry opaąue: You want just a hint of 
blue. 

After painting the plastic louvers in 
the front door Windows white, you can 
mount all of the side Windows and drop 
the cabin top into place. This piece does 
not fit as well as it should, so I used an 
abrasive tip in my motor tool and some 


careful sanding to bring about an ac- 
ceptable panel linę, then touched up 
the camouflage in the area. 

Before gluing the front bubble into 
place, paint the outside front panel and 
the support frames Pactra International 
Colors RLM Gray, then overspray with 
the exterior color. When viewing the 
front panel and frames through the 
open doors, you will be looking at the 
correct interior color through the elear 
plastic. 

Exterior details. The front bubble 
sports a windshield wiper, Fig. 7, which 
should be attached with Elmer’s to pre- 
vent crazing the plastic. The smali mo¬ 
tor for the wiper was constructed from 
a piece of styrene sheet, and a piece of 
painted sprue for the power cable. When 
you attach the bubble to the fuselage, 
be surę to align it so that the frames 
look right from all angles. Once again, 
use Elmer’s because it will give you 
time to position the part correctly be¬ 
fore the glue sets. 

I drilled two smali holes in the roof of 
the flight compartment for the topside 
antennas, and another at the back of 
the taił radio dome. Instead of using 
the antennas that came with the kit, I 
replaced these pieces with stretched 
sprue painted white. 



1:48- Heinkel He51-A1/B1 - $9.95 



1:72 - Beriev BE-4 (KOR-2) - $7.95 

(b V / 

rie*'- 

1:72 - Sukhoi SU-5 - $6.95 

COMIPiG! 




1:72 - Nakajima ESN 1/2 DAVE 
1:72 - Mitsubishi Ki-30 ANN 
1:48 - llyushin IL-2 SHTURMOVIK 
1:48 - llyushin IL-2m3 SHTURMOVIK 

STILL AVAILABLE! 

1:72 - Arado AR 68E -$ 5.95 

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1:72 — Gotha GO 145 - 5.95 

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1:72 — Flugtechnische FFG 227 - 6.95 

1 72 - Heinkel HE-46 C/D - 6.95 

1:72 - Meridionali IMAM Ro. 57 - 6.95 

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1:72 - Kyushu Q1W LORNA - 7.95 

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1 48 - Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-3 — 9 95 

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Shipping & Handling — Domestic: Under 
$20. add 15%;over$20. no charge. Foreign: 
Surface. add 20%; Air. add 50% — any ex- 
cess will be credited. NO FOREIGN 
CURRENCY - U.S. FUNDS ONLY. Michi¬ 
gan residents add 4% sales tax. We reserve 
the right to select shipping method; United 
Parcel Service or U.S. Parcel Post. If First 
Class delivery desired. add $1.00 extra. 

Payment - Cash. check. or preferably 
money order No C O D. or credit card sales. 

DEALER INOUIRIES INYITED. 

Wings 72 Wings 48, Inc. 
3349 Wildridge Drive, N.E. 
Grand Rapids, Michigan 49505 


Fali 1982 57 










]»&' 



> - 


iwmiJY 


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96 San Tomas Aquino Road 
Campbell, CA 95008* 

Ph. (408) 379-1696 




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Open: Mon-Thurs-Fri 10:30-9 Tues-Wed 10:30-6 Sat 10-5:30 Sun 12-5:30 


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BETT^R MODELS FOR BETTER MODELING 


The BO 105 carries a number of run- 
ning lights which I madę out of Micro 
Kristal-Kleer. The landing light on the 
bottom of the piane can be madę by 
simply filling in the hole in the fuse- 
lage with Kristal-Kleer rather than 
using the kit piece. The two lights on 
the taił fins were madę by first paint- 
ing the tips of the light shafts silver, 
then covering the paint with Kristal- 
Kleer. The other lights are all colored 
using food coloring mixed with Kristal- 
Kleer, Fig. 8. 

All four exhaust stacks need various 
degrees of drilling out to make them 
look morę like pipę, Fig. 9. Over the 
years I have developed a fondness for 
dental burrs for this task, probably be- 
cause they come in many sizes and are 
designed for hollowing out areas. I ob- 
tain used burrs from my dentist; they’re 
also sold by all dental supply houses. 

After drilling and sanding, I sprayed 
the pipes with Liqu-a-plate Bronze to 
obtain a scorched look. The insides were 
hand painted with Polly S Exhaust 
Black after the Liqu-a-plate had dried. 
Once painting is finished, the stacks 
can be installed. 

Doors, mirror, and cargo. To install 
the flight compartment doors and cargo 
bay doors I tacked them in place with 
two smali pieces of electrical tape (they 
look like hinges) and propped the doors 
at the correct height with blocks of 
wood and anything else that was handy. 
Then, I painted Elmer’s into the seam 
between the fuselage and the door frame 
and madę door handles from stretched 
sprue, gluing them in place with di- 
luted ElmeFs. Because white glue forms 
a weak bond with styrene, if you don’t 
like the alignment of any of the doors 
after they are in place, you can break 
them loose and scrape the glue off for 
another try. After the glue had dried, I 
painted over it with Pactra Interna¬ 
tional Colors RLM Gray. 

Some BO 105s are equipped with 
large rearview mirrors on the copilofs 
side of the fuselage, Fig. 7. I madę the 
mirror assembly from three pieces of 
sprue and a smali piece of paper painted 
silver to simulate a mirror, attached 
the assembly with ElmeFs, and painted 
the supports the color of the front bub- 
ble frame. 

For the cargo, Fig. 10, I used a Ban- 
dai 1/48 scalę crate; the cargo net was 
madę from a piece of Johnson & John¬ 
son gauze. I airbrushed the gauze Pac¬ 
tra Khaki before cutting it; the paint 
helps keep the gauze from coming apart. 
The crate was painted Pactra USA Dark 
Green and the gauze molded over it. I 
glued scrap threads of gauze to each 
corner of the net after it had dried to 
simulate tie-downs. 

To complete the model I attached the 
air spoiler, main rotor, and taił rotor. 
The result is an unusual — and unusu- 
ally attractive — addition to my air¬ 
craft collection. FSM 


58 FineScale Modeler 










































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Overseas (airmail) 
$4.00 


HOURS: Mon-Fri.9-5. Closed Sat/Sun. 

• Phone orders onVISAor MasterCard 

• Calif. rćsidents ADD 6% sales tax. 

• Postage: $10 to $15.00.$2.00 

$15.00 and up.$3.50 

• Orders by Parcel Post additional $1 .00 

FOREIGN ORDERS (Incl. Canada and 
Mexico) add 20%. Excess postage will 
be credited. Min . foreign postage $5.00. 
No C.O.D.'s 

• MINIMUM ORDER $10.00 



DEPT. FSM 827 2 
18320 WARD STREET 
FOUNTAIN VALLEY, CA.92708 
714-962-4833 


Fali 1982 59 



































































MAIL ORDKR PISCOUNT 
TAKItA 1/3S SCALĘ 


FSM BOOK BRIEFS 


>•<222 

KM223 

łtan 
>•<114 
*<117 
MM130 
>•<135 
MK136 
MMI 3 7 

>•<138 

>*<139 

*<140 

>*<148 

MM154 

wase 

>*<157 

>*<158 

>•<161 

W164 

MM165 

>•<169 

>•<170 

>•<180 

>•<181 

MK186 

HK196 

M<201 

*<204 

>•<207 

>*<208 

*1213 

*<216 

*C20 


MT118 

H51 

H52 

H95 


H142 
4403 
HI 72 
4423 

4719 

4720 

8603 
8610 

8615 

8616 

8617 

8619 

8620 
8621 

8604 

8605 

8618 
8608 


8625 
8618 
8601 
8602 
8611 
8612 

8613 
8609 

8626 
8606 

8614 
8607 

8622 

8623 

8624 

8627 


M4 Shermmn Tank. 

Mlii A2 Ford Ja«p (*»«>. 

PzKpfw 111. 

Sturmgeachutz 111. 

88oa Flak 36/37 (9 figurę*).... 
German Aaaault Troope (8 figurea) 

3.7ca PAK 35/36 & Cr«w (4 fig). 
Sdkis 232 8 whaeled Armored car 

Geroaan Afika Korpa (8 Fig). 

Ceraan Machinę Gun 6 Crcw 7 Fig 

K3 Lee Tank (4 Fig). 

US Anaoured Personnel Carrler.. 

US Infantry (8 Fig). 

PzKpfw IV Auat H w/fIg. 

Tlger 1. 

King Tlger. 

HuntIng Tlger w/2 fig. 

Panzcr Crenadlera (8 Fig). 

German Leopard. 

PanChar. 

JAGD Fanther wA Fig. 

US M3A2 Peraonnel Carrler. 

US Combat Group (8 Fig). 

US KL6 Hullti-Cun Halferack- 

US Cun and Morear Teaa (8 Fig). 

PzKpfw IV auat D w/3 Fig. 

Plakpaiteer IV Mobelwagen w/4 fig 
Krupp Boxer 6'4 Prima Mover.... 
H113A1 Pire Support Vehlcle w/l 

Figurę. 

Ruaelan T-62A w/l Fig. 

SdKfs 250/3 Crelf. 

US M106A1 Armourcd S.F. Mortar. 

US M48 Patton Tank. 

M4 Sherman Tank. 

Stuart Tank. 

M4A3E8 Sherman Tank. 

REVELL 

Sopwlth Camel 1/72 Ng*. 

Fokker Dr. I 1/72 JgU . 

Bf110G/4R-6 1/72 NEW. 

Dornicr Do335-A-12 1/72 NEW. 

Mesa. Me41QA-l/U-4 Komet 1/72 NEW 

Ju87 G-2 Tank Buster 1/72. 

B24D Liberator 1/72. 

Slkoraky Sl Hellcopter 1/48 NEW.. 
P-47D Razorback Thunderbolt 1/32 

F-15E Strlke Eagle 1/32. 

laraell F-16 w/Stores 1/32. 

Martin FBM-5 Marlner (1/112). 

North American X-15 (1/64). 

Douglas AD-6 (Al-J) Skyralder 1/40 

Hawkar Typhoon MK-lB 1/32. 

Hesserachoitt Bf-110c-4B 1/32.... 

Bell X-5 1/40. 

Douglas X*3 Stllletto 1/65. 

Martin P-6M Seaaaater 1/136. 

Tranqullllty Baae 1/48. 

Apollo/Saturn V 1/96. 

Ccmlnl Spacc Capsulc 1/24. 

Anno red Vehlcle and Sclaaora Brl- 

dgc 1/40. 

Self-Propelled Howltzer 1/32. 

Ccmlnl Space Capsulc 1/24. 

German V-2 Mlsslle 1/54. 

Boaarc IM-99 1/47. 

Northrop Hawk 1/40. 

Northrop Snark SMÓ2 1/96. 

Nike Herculee 1/40. 

Porsche Coapctltlon Racer 1/25... 

1960 Corvette 1/25. 

Al11son Turbo Prop. 

WASP Radlal Alrcraft Engine. 

USS Burton Island Ice Breaker 

1/292. 

N/S Savannah Freighter 1/361. 

USS Olympla’ Crulser 1/232. 

USS Hlssion Caplstrano Tankar 

1/400. 

USS Nautllus Suboarlna 1/305... 


10.98/8.13* 

8.50/6.29* 

9.98/7.39* 

9.98/7.39* 

13.98/10.35* 

3.98/2.95* 

3.98/2.95* 

9.98/7.39* 

3.98/2.95* 

3.98/2.95* 

9.98/7.39* 

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3.98/2.95* 

9.98/7.39* 

9.96/7.39* 

10.98/8.13* 

9.98/7.39* 

3.98/2.95* 

10.98/8.13* 

10.98/8.13* 

9.98/7.39* 

10.98/8.13* 

3.98/2.95* 

9.98/7.39* 

3.98/2.95* 

9.98/7.39* 

9.98/7.39* 

9.98/7.39* 


9.98/7.39* 

9.98/7.39* 

10.98/8.13* 

10.98/8.13* 

10.98/8.13* 

10.98/8.13* 

9.98/7.39* 

10.98/8.13* 


3.00/2.40* 

3.00/2.40* 

5.00/4.00* 

5.00/4.00* 

5.00/4.00* 

6.00/4.80* 

6.00/4.80* 

11 . 00 / 8 . 00 * 

6.50/5.20* 

20.00/14.80* 

11 . 00 / 8 . 00 * 

9.00/6.66* 

10.00/7.40* 

18.00/13.32* 

12 . 00 / 8 . 88 * 

22.00/16.28* 

9.00/6.66* 

9.00/6.66* 

9.00/6.66* 

12 . 00 / 8 . 88 * 

50.00/37.00* 

20.00/14.80* 


18.00/13.32* 

24.00/>7.76* 

35.00/25.90* 

12 . 00 / 6 . 88 * 

13.00/9.62* 

12 . 00 / 8 . 88 * 

11.00/B.14* 

14.00/10.36* 

10.00/7.40* 

10.00/7.40* 

24.00/17.76* 

44.50/32.43 

9.00/6.66* 

11.00/8.14* 

18.00/13.32* 


10.00/7.40* 

7.00/5.18* 


1167 

1188 

B017 

B018 

1201 

1206 

1208 


1209 


7A-13 

7A-32 

7A-33 

5A-4 

5A-13 

5A-24 

5A-47 


7201 

4065 

4067 


9012 

9013 

9022 

9023 

9024 

9025 


0664 

0665 

1287 

1289 


Boeing 727-200 1/200. 

DC-10-40 1/200. 

Ki 43 Oecar 1/72. 

Ki 84 Prank 1/72. 

Thunderblrd F-16 1/72. 

Palrchlld A-10A Thunderbolt 11 

1/72. 

Thunderblrd Hletory Sec 
Contalns: 1 ea. T-33.T-38, P-100D 
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Hughes 500 MD 'Defendar' US Army 
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76P-5 Hallcat US Navy 1/48. 

Pocke-Wulf PU190 A6/9 1/48. 

P5ID Mustang USAF 1/48. 

USN A-4P Blue Angel Skyhawk 1/48 
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4.50/3.33* 

6.00/4.40* 

4.00/2.96* 

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4.50/3.33* 

5.00/3.70* 


20.00/14.80* 


20.00/14.80* 

7.98/5.91* 

7.98/5.91* 

7.98/5.91* 

7.98/5.91* 

7.98/5.91* 

8.98/6.65* 

8.98/6.65* 

60.00/44.40* 

9.50/7.03* 

12.50/9.25* 

6.00/4.44* 

10.00/7.40* 

5.00/3.70* 

5.00/3.70* 

10.00/7.40* 

5.00/3.70* 


3.75/2.78* 

4.25/3.15* 

9.95/7.36* 

6.75/5.00* 


2101 Orc War Actlon Scena . 12.00/8.1 

j fffrp" lnv *d« r * Actlon Scena_ 12.00/8. 

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ORDER PROM: R. M. CROENE Dept PS 
867 Atlantic Street 
Llndenhurat, New York 11757 
PH0NE: 516-957-5923 2-5po Mon. to Prl. 

MAIL COD Order#: pleaae aend 151 at tlme of orderlng or 
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Prlcea aubject to changę wlthout notlce. 

Prlcea haaed on ratail prlcaa lo affect on 7/6/82. 


Street, Bennington, VT 05201. It costs 
$8.50, plus $1.00 for postage and han- 
dling if ordered from the publisher. 

B-17 Flying Fortress in Detail 
& Scalę, Part 1 


BY BURR ANGLE 



Canadas Flowers: A History of the 
Corvettes of Canada, 1939-1945 

Thomas G. Lynch has prepared a his¬ 
tory of Canadian corvettes in World 
War Two. It is a 100-page, 8W' x IOW, 
soft-cover book which details the con- 
voy escort and antisubmarine warfare 
activities of these smali yessels in the 
North Atlantic, the Mediterranean 
Sea, the English Channel, and other 
theaters. The book is useful to model- 
ers because it contains 142 black-and- 
white photos, numerous drawings and 
plans, and a chart showing how to mix 
Humbrol enamels to match Canadian 
WWII colors. 

Canada’s Flowers is published by In¬ 
ternational Graphics Corp., 218 Beech 


Bert Kinzey’s Detail & Scalę books, 
of which this is the first to be published 
and distributed by Aero Publishers, Inc., 
are practical modeling guides to fa- 
mous aireraft. B-17 Flying Fortress in 
Detail & Scalę by Alwyn T. Lloyd and 
Terry D. Moore describes the B-17 from 
the first prototypes through the B-17G. 

In addition to 145 photos (10 in color), 
there are five-view drawings in 1/144 
scalę of each variant of the B-17, ex- 
tracts from Boeing manuals, charts and 
tables, kit reviews, a list of decal sets, 
and a bibliography. 

This is a 72-page, 8W x 11", soft- 
cover book printed on good paper. 

The book sells for $6.95 and is avail- 
able in many hobby shops and book- 
stores, or you may order directly from 
Aero Publishers, Inc., 329 West Avi- 
ation Road, Fallbrook, CA 92028. If 
you order by mail, add $1.00 for post¬ 
age and handling. 

F-4 Phantom II in Detail & Scalę, Part I 

Bert Kinzey plans to publish three 
volumes on the F-4, eventually cover- 
ing all Phantom variants used by the 
U. S. military. The first volume covers 
Pbantoms F-4C, F-4D, and RF-4C. Its 


13BB Btaph.n Way 
San Joaa Ca. B81BB 
(408) BBS- 748B 


NEW — F-16 cockpit placards in 1/32nd & 1/48th 
scales. An extensive set in 1 /32nd scalę will include 
new metal panels to replace those removed from kit 
parts. C.R.T. panel & annunciator błock panel also 
included. 1/32nd scalę. Set $10.15 ea. 1/48th set 
$7.75 


JOIN 

I.P.M.S. 

NOW 


COMING SOONIF-14 Cockpit Placard Kit. Will be 
very similar in makeup to F-16 Cockpit Pla¬ 
card Kit. Also available soon a super smali 
punch & die set that will enable the model 
builder to replace or make new the many 
knobs in a modern aireraft cockpit. This 
punch will also be a great help in doing many 
other super detailing jobs. Send $.50 for a flyer listing all of our super detailing 
items. Add 10% of order, postage & handling. For fastest return include postał 
money order. Foreign orders add 15% of order. International money order or 
check drawn on U.S. bank for U.S. funds. Calif. residents add 6.5% State tax. 

NOTĘ: We also have the Grumman F6F Hellcat, the F4 Phantom & the F-104 
Starfighter Cockpit Placards in process as well as special jet seat belt hardware. 
Introduction Dates & Prices to be announced. 

DEALER INOUIRIES INVITED 





60 FineScale Modeler 
























































































































format is identical to the B-17 book de- 
scribed above, except that the drawings 
by Jerry G. Smith are in 1/72 scalę. 

The price is $6.95 and you may buy 
the book locally or directly from Aero, 
in which case add $ 1.00 for postage and 
handling. 


£ufttpaffe 

(Tamouflage 

1935-40 





Alwn Flcurcl 


Luftwaffe Camouflage, 1935-40 

The author, Alain Flueret, is presi- 
dent of IPMS/France, an aircraft resto- 
ration expert, and an authority on Ger¬ 
man aircraft. The illustrator, Geoffrey 
Pentland, is a well-known aviation art- 
ist. The two men have produced a 144- 
page, 8 W' x 11 W', hard-cover book with 
morę than 330 photos (some in color) 
and 13 pages of color paintings. 

The book offers a thorough discus- 
sion of Luftwaffe camouflage through 
1940, and also contains a complete dis- 
cussion of Luftwaffe insignia and other 
aircraft markings. 

Luftwaffe Camouflage , 1935-40 is pub- 
lished by Kookaburra Technical Pub- 
lications Pty., Ltd. in Melbourne, Aus¬ 
tralia. It is sold in many hobby shops, 
or may be ordered from Kookaburra’s 
U. S. representative, James B. Hay- 
craft, 214 Kenmark Road, Newark, DE 
19713. The price is $27.95. 



F-16A & B Fighting Falcon 
in Detail & Scalę 

The F-16 promises to be a mainstay 
of U. S. and NATO air forces for many 
years and it has recently performed 
well with the Israeli Air Force. This 
book gives complete coverage of the 
fighter’s development, describes changes 
between prototypes and production air¬ 
craft, and lists modifications to service 
aircraft. There are morę than 150 pho- 
tographs (39 in color), detailed 1/72 
scalę five-view drawings, technical data, 
and information about armament loads. 

A modeler’s section reviews F-16 kits 
and decal sets, and there is a bibliogra- 
phy of books and articles about the F-16. 

This 72-page book is published by 
Aero; its price is $6.95. If you order by 
mail, include $ 1.00 for postage and 
handling. 


A Modeler s Guide to Ancient and 
Medieval Ships to 1650 

In 64 pages, this 8 !/ 2 " x 11W' book by 
A. Richard Mansir presents an over- 
view of ancient and medieval shipbuild- 
ing practices. There are no plans or 
scalę drawings, so this is not a how-to 
book, but it does provide an introduc- 
tion to several major types of sailing 
ships and may be helpful to a modeler 
searching for new subjects. 

It is published by Moonraker Publi- 
cations, 24452B Alta Vista, Dana Point, 
CA 92629. The price is $10.95. 

The Dremel Guide to 
Compact Power Tools 

Dremel, Division of Emerson Elec¬ 
tric Co., Racine, WI 53406, has pub¬ 
lished this guide by Len Hilts to its linę 
of power tools, including the Moto-Tool, 
Moto-Lathe, Scroll Saw/Sander, Table 
Saw, and Disc/Belt Sander. The text is 
accompanied by morę than 600 black- 
and-white photos and Len Hilts pro- 
vides much information about how to 
use and care for all Dremel tools and 
accessories. The text deals exclusively 
with Dremel tools, but most of the ma¬ 
teriał applies eąually to compact tools 
from other manufacturers. In soft cov- 
ers, this 266-page, 6 V 2 x 10 " book is 
available from Dremel and Dremel deal- 
ers for $7.95. 

Gunships, a Pictorial History of Spooky 

This 8 W' x 11", 64-page, soft-cover 
book contains text, 162 black-and-white 
photos, sketches, and color paintings of 
aircraft used as gunships in Vietnam. 
The text is by Larry Davis, the illustra- 
tions are by Don Greer. The aircraft cov- 
ered are AC-47s, AC-199s, AC/NC-123s, 
AP-2Hs, OP- 2 Es, OV-10s, AU-23As, and 
AU-24As. 

The book is published by Sąuadron/ 
Signal Publications, Inc., 1115 Crowley 
Drive, Carrollton, TX 75006. The price 
is $8.95. 


SdKfz 251 in Action 

The SdKfz 251 half-track armored 
personnel carrier was used by German 
troops on all fronts throughout WWII. 
There were 4 production models in 23 
variants; a total of 12,252 were man- 
ufactured. 

This 50-page, 8Va" x 11", horizontal- 
format, soft-cover book by Charles Kli- 
ment with illustrations by Don Greer, 
contains text, 121 black-and-white pho¬ 
tos, 12 color paintings, and numerous 
drawings that illustrate each model 
and variant of the SdKfz 251. It is pub¬ 
lished by Sąuadron/Signal Publica¬ 
tions and costs $4.95. 

Lancaster in Action 

From March 3,1942, until the end of 
WWII, the RAF flew 156,000 sorties 
with four-engine Lancaster heavy bomb- 
ers. Lancaster in Action describes the 
LancasteFs evolution from the two-en- 


IGencraft 

Our SPECIALTY is out ol production & bard to 
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THE COMPLETE A-10 BOOK\ 

- THIS IS IT! A 

• Detail Photos & lllus. * 60 quality pages 

• Complete History * FSColors 

• N/AW A-10 Section • Up-to-date facts 

If you buy 1 A-10 book, This is if! 3 5 0 nai>ł 

Dealer lnquiries lnvited 

Mail check or Robert DeMaio P.O. Box 564 
ymoney order to: Lakę Ronkonkoma, N.Y. 11779 ^ 




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Become a charter subscriber to 
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8 issues: $15 ($19 outside the U. S.) 


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Modeling isn’t supposed to be a waiting 
gamę. The Plastic Place features person- 
alized service.. .every letter answered. 
We il track down that hard to find kit for 
you even if it s out of production and get 
it for you at a FAIR PRICE! 

We carry all Hasegawa. Matchbox, Hell¬ 
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tors. Italaeri. Tamiya Planes. 

Hasegawa. Matchbox. Esci. Tamiya. AIR- 
FIX. Heller Armor. 

Airliners from England. Mexico. Brazil. 

The fuli linę of Micro Scalę Decals and 
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Floquil and Polly S paint, Squadron sig¬ 
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FOR CATALOG WRITE: 

THE PLASTIC PLACE 

4705 S. Salina St. Syracuse. NY 13205 


Fali 1982 


61 



























WEAPONS & WARFARE 
Ctuarterly 

An all-new magazine created for the serious 
historian, modeler, collector, and wargamer. 
Designed to cover every aspect of Weapons & 
Warfare. especially those topics seldom, if 
ever. covered elsewhere. Issue #1 available 
Fali 1982; over 100 W* 11* pages per is¬ 
sue; dozens of artides. book & product re- 
views. news, etc.; photos, art. scalę draw- 
ings, camouflage & markings schemes. and 
much morę packed into every issue. SASE for 
brochure and our complete catalog. 

Speclml Pre-Publlcatlon Offer! 

Cover price will be $5.00 (1 yr., $20) after #1 
is published. Order your copy now, before #1 
is published. for only $4.00, or subscribe for 
$15.00—and we*11 also send a FREE bonus 
with #1 . .. but you must act now! 

218-FSM Beech. Bennington VT 05201 


The SOURCE For... 

Casting resins and 
mold making materials 
"Make one or 
one thousand 
with Castolite.” 
Catalogue SI.00 

CASTOLITE 

Dept. FS 282, 

P O. Box 391 
Woodstock, IL 60098 



ROCO Minitanks are an extensive 
assortment of HO scalę military 
miniatures suitable for use in dioramas. 


They are molded in polystyrene plastic 
and feature many of the details of the 
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Ctooose from a selection of 
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SEND $1.00 FOR A A. Kempees 

COMPLETE CATALOG Hensyn Village Q-4A 
AND PRICE LIST Budd Lakę, N| 07828 

"The Unofficial Importer" 
s. Ali 1:87 Perfect HO scalę . 


ginę Manchester and describes each 
variant. This 50-page, 8Vs"x 11", hori- 
zontal-format, soft-cover book written 
by R. S. G. Mackay, with illustrations 
by Don Greer, contains 105 black-and- 
white photos, 8 color paintings, and 
many drawings of the aircrhft and ac- 
cessories. It is sold for $4.95 by Squad- 
ron/Signal Publications. 

Armor in Vietnam 

Jim Męsko has produced an 8W' x 11", 
80-page, soft-cover book containing text, 
193 black-and-white photos, and 9 pages 
of color paintings by Don Greer, all 
dealing with the tanks and other ar- 
mored vehicles used in Vietnam from 
1946 through 1975. Included are French 
weapons of the First Vietnamese War, 
ARVN eąuipment of the 1960s and 
early 1970s, and U. S. Army and Ma- 
rines tanks and other armored vehicles 
from 1965 through 1971. There is even 
brief coverage of Australian and NVA 
armor. 

The text is limited to a generał de- 
scription of the use of armor by the 
combatants; it does not give detailed 
battle-by-battle analyses because these 
are available in many official histories. 

The book contains no scalę drawings 
but is useful to modelers because the 
paintings show numerous color schemes 
and the photos reveal the ways tanks 
and other vehicles were modified in the 
field. 


The book is available from Sąuadron/ 
Signal Publications for $8.95. 

B-26 Marauder in Action 

The Martin B-26 medium bomber 
achieved top speeds of about 300 mph 
but only at the expense of a high wing 
loading, which resulted in long takeoff 
rolls and madę the piane too hot for 
fledgling pilots. After many training 
fatalities, the aircraft became known 
as the "widów maker,” a name which 
foliowed it throughout WWII. Interest- 
ingly, though, the B-26 was the safest 
bomber in combat over Europę. 

B-26 Marauder in Action by Steve 
Birdsall and with illustrations by Don 
Greer is a 50-page, 8Va" x 11", horizon- 
tal-format, soft-cover book containing 
text, 99 black-and-white photos, 10 color 
paintings, and many black-and-white 
drawings. Each variant of the B-26 is 
described. The book is published by 
Squadron/Signal; the price is $4.95. 

F9F Panther Cougar in Action 

The Grumman F9F Panther single- 
engine Navy and Marines fighter saw 
service throughout the Korean War; 
the Cougar featured swept wings and 
remained in production until 1958. This 
50-page, 8V8"xll", horizontal-format, 
soft-cover book by Jim Sullivan, with 
illustrations by Don Greer, contains 
text, 117 black-and-white photos, 10 
color paintings, and many sketches. 


'. kc A\OIM2L' 
WOKILS 

We feature what we feel are 
the finest lines of scalę models. 


We do not have a catalog 
available, write for specific 
items desired. 


• Model Railroad 

• Military - Armor & Aircraft 

• Autos & Ships - Kits & Parts 

• Radio Control Equipment 

• Reference Books, 

Periodicals, and Photos 

• Paints, Decals, Tools, and 
Scratch Builder Materials 


1655 E. COLORADO BLVD. 
PASADENA, CALIFORNIA 91106 213-793-6061 




NAW-CWITH® 


NC-4 


A lUU^-TRATtO, wtłUlJED 
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30 NWEtteCR '82. 


62 FineScale Modeler 












































Each variant of the F9F is described in 
text and shown in photos. It’s published 
by Sąuadron/Signal and sells for $4.95. 

F4U Corsair in Color 

This 32-page, 8 ^ 2 " x 11 ", soft-cover 
book by Jim Sullivan contains 7 color 
photos, 51 black-and-white photos, 16 
pages of color paintings by Don Greer, 
and text which gives a brief history of 
the development and operations of the 
Vought Corsair series of fighter-bomb- 
ers from 1943 through the late 1950s. 
The color paintings show color schemes 
and details (including cockpit interi- 
ors) for the F4U-1, F4U-4, F4U-5, and 
F4U-5N. 

F4U Corsair in Color is available 
from Sąuadron/Signal Publications for 
$5.95. 

USAF Europę, 1948-1965, in Color 

USAF Europę, 1948-1965, in Color is 
a 36-page, 8 V 2 " x 11" large-format, soft- 
cover book containing 7 color photos, 
45 black-and-white photos, and 20 
pages of color drawings by the author, 
Robert Robinson, that show the left or 
right fuselage sides and tails of USAF 
fighter-bombers ranging from the F-80 
through the F-105. The text consists of 
brief descriptions of aircraft markings 
used by a number of USAF groups, 
wings, and sąuadrons in Europę from 
1948 to 1965. The information is valu- 
able, but the text, photos, and drawings 
are not keyed to one another, so the 
book is difficult to use. 

It is published by Sąuadron/Signal 
Publications; the price is $5.95. 



Scalę Reference Guide 

First published in 1976, this bibliog- 
raphy of scalę plans and three-view 
drawings edited by Herman Luevano 
lists morę than 2,800 aircraft drawings 
published in nine U. S. and British 
model aviation magazines from the 
1930s through 1976 (as well as Profile 
Publications). Most of the plans listed 
are for flying scalę models, but many of 
the articles accompanying these plans 
contain scalę drawings of the full-size 
aircraft and other useful materiał. 

The 117-page, 8 Vfe"xll", soft-cover 
book is published by R/C Modeler Mag- 
azine , P. O. Box 487, Sierra Mądre, CA 
91024, and sells for $5.50, including 
U. S. postage. Add $1.00 for UPS in the 
U. S. if desired; foreign orders add 
$ 2.00 for book ratę postage. PSM 




THE BOOKS THAT ANSWER 
YOUR SCALĘ MODELING 
OUESTIONS! 


MODELING TANKS AND MILITARY VEHICLES 

In the 76 pages of MOD¬ 
ELING TANKS AND MILITARY 
VEHICLES, master mod¬ 
eler Sheperd Paine shows 
you how to build realis- 
tic armor models. This book 
covers basie modeling 
techniques, then pro- 
gresses to kit conver- 
sions, detailing, weathering, 
and scratchbuilding! 
Available: September. $8.95 


HOW TO BUILD DIORAMAS 

Here s a Sheperd Paine 
scalę modeling classic! 
HOW TO BUILD DIORAMAS 
explains how to design and 
build stunning diora- 
mas, details shadow box 
construction and light- 
ing, shows how to create 
realistic figures, and of- 
fers ideas on photography, 
all in 104 pages. In- 
cludes hundreds of superb 
modeling tips. $8.95 



Modeling TANKS 
andMDJTARY 
■ VEH1CŁ»E8 



HINTS AND TIPS FOR PLASTIC MODELING HOW TO BUILD PLASTIC SHIP MODELS 



This book is filled with 
255 plastic modeling hints 
and tips compiled from 
the publications of IPMS/ 
USA! HINTS AND TIPS 
FOR PLASTIC MODELING in- 
cludes information on 
tools and workbench equip- 
ment, assembly, mask- 
ing, painting, canopy 
construction. weather¬ 
ing. and much more-all 48 
illustrated pages. $3.95 



You’ll learn how to build 
accurate ship models from 
inexpensive plastic kits 
in the 64 pages of HOW TO 
BUILD PLASTIC SHIP MOD¬ 
ELS. Les Wilkins has written 
the book so that 
beginners will achieve good 
results from the start, 
but has also included tips 
for the veteran. Informa¬ 
tion on sailing and Steel 
ships is included. $6.25 


FAMOUS SPACESHIPS OF FACT AND FANTASY BUILDING PLASTIC MODELS 



Loaded with full-color 
photos. FAMOUS SPACE¬ 
SHIPS OF FACT AND FAN¬ 
TASY is a source of data 
about the famous 
spacecraft of history and 
lore-and a modeling 
guide! In 88 pages, youll 
find challenging model¬ 
ing projects featuring the 
NASA Space Shuttle, 
Darth Vader’s Tie Fighter. 
and ten other fascinat- 
ing models. $8.50 



The step-by-step model¬ 
ing instructions in building 
PLASTIC MODELS will 
help you construct better 
scalę models-and you ll 
have morę fun, too! In 64 
pages, Robert Schlei- 
cher covers tools, model 
preparation, assembly, 
painting, and decaling, and 
he provides ideas for 
detailing! $4.75 


Buy these books at your hobby shop , 
or order direct today! 


) KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. 


PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE 


DEPT. 3954, KALMBACH BOOKS 

1027 N. SEVENTH ST., MILWAUKEE. Wl 53233 

OUANTITY TITLE PRICE 

MODELING TANKS AND MILITARY 


Please send me the books l've marked. 

□ My check is enclosed 

□ This is a credit card 
purchase (see below) 


VEHICLES. 

.8.95 

HOW TO BUILD DIORAMAS. 

8.95 j 

HINTS AND TIPS FOR PLASTIC 
MODELING. 

.3.95 

HOW TO BUILD PLASTIC SHIP 
MODELS. 

.6.25 

FAMOUS SPACESHIPS OF FACT 

AND FANTASY. 

.8.50 

BUILDING PLASTIC MODELS. 

.4.75 


STATE, ZIP 


te 


SUBTOTAL 

Postage and handling; U. S., $.75, 
foreign SI .25 (per order) 
Wisconsin residonts add 
5 per ceni sales tax 

TOTAL 


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If you don't wish to clip your magazine, copy the necessary information including department number on a separate sheet 


Fali 1982 63 











































FSM TIPS AND TECHNIOUES 



Cushion Grips. It’s annoying to work 
with round-handled tools that constant- 
ly roli off your workbench, and, with 
knives, it’s downright dangerous. Here’s 
a solution to the problem: Go to a sta- 
tionery storę and buy several Grip-Rite 
Cushion Grips madę by Hoyle Products, 
302 Orange Grove, Fillmore, CA 93015. 
These are P/Along triangular pieces of 
soft plastic with a hole down the center. 
They’re intended to be used as finger 
cushions on pencils, but I cut each into 
several shorter sections and slide the 
sections onto round handles; they pre- 
vent rolling. The grips come in several 
colors, so they also color-code each tool. 

Burr Angle 

Scalę towing cables. If you build 
military vehicles and have been look- 
ing for a simple but effective way to 
make authentic-looking steel towing 
cables for your models, buy a package 
of control-line model airplane lead-out 
wire. This is distributed both by The 
Perfect Parts Company and by Sig Man- 
ufacturing Co. in 4' to 6' lengths and di- 
ameters of 0.021" and 0.027"; both sizes 
contain seven stainless steel strands. 
The larger diameter is ideał for 1/35 
and 1/32 scalę models; the smaller looks 



Rareplanes vacforms—among the 
world’s best sellers—have found 
enough moldings to make 75 of their 
famous Lockheed EC-121 Super 
Constellations and only 50 of the 
Douglas DC-4 Skymasters—your last 
chance to get these rare 1:72 kits for 
only $18.00 each. Money back if can- 
not supply. We also have the last 100 
Boeing KC-97G and about 1000 of 
our new superkit, the Handley-Page 
Victor K2 bomber/tanker, both at 
$23.00 each. Post is inclusive. Send 
checks, cash, or IMO’s to 
RAREplanes, 69 Redstone Hill, 
Redhill, Surrey, England. 




good on models down to about 1/48 
scalę. 

When new, the wire is shiny and 
stiff, but this doesn’t present a prob¬ 
lem. Simply cut a piece the length you 
need (I always cut it just a bit longer to 
be on the safe side!), grip the wire in a 
pair of pliers, and heat it over a burner 
on your stove until the wire glows red- 
hot. This takes the temper out of the 
metal, making it soft and easily bend- 
able — a side benefit is that the wire 
turns a realistic rusty-brown color. 

The next step is to drill out the cable 
end-connectors supplied with most ar- 
mor kits and insert the wire, securing 
it with a smali drop of super glue. Then 
bend and twist the wire into its correct 
posit ion. Dave M usikoff 

Cast-metal texture on styrene. Many 
tank parts, such as the gun mantlet on 
a Soviet T-34 and the turret on an 
American M48, are madę of cast metal, 
which has a rough finish. However, 
most kit parts have a smooth finish. 
Here’s one way to achieve a cast-metal 
look on styrene parts: Gently brush 
tiny ąuantities of model airplane dope 
such as Pactra Aerogloss onto the plas¬ 
tic, let the dope soften the plastic for a 



few minutes, then stipple the plastic 
with a stiff-bristled disposable brush, 
imparting a rough, textured effect. 

Obviously, the morę dope you use 
and the longer you let it work, the 
heavier the effect will be. If, when you’ve 
finished, you feel you’ve overdone it, 
you can sand down the surface slightly, 
but it’s best to go slowly and learn 
through practice when to stop. 

Warning — dope contains powerful 
solvents that literally eat styrene. It is 
easy to ruin an expensive kit if you’re 
not careful, so practice this techniąue 
on scrap plastic or an old model before 
tackling your latest project. Keep in 
mind, too, that as with most modeling 
techniąues, it’s better to be too subtle 
than to go too far and end up with a 
curdled mess. Dave Musikoff 

Plastic cutter. If you’ve been looking 
for a way to cut various shapes from 
sheet styrene, but don’t want to invest 
in a miniaturę jigsaw, you might find a 
suitable alternative in the Wonder Cut¬ 
ter from Snowfoam Products, El Monte, 




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From the people who irwented the 
worlds first plastic model metalizing 
finish. No other metalizing finish 
offers you the versatility of Metalizer. 
For all types of aircraft, car, ship, train, 
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Airbrush on and buff to a brilliant 
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64 FineScale Modeler 











































CA 91734, a device sold in many hobby 
and craft shops for shaping Styrofoam 
and similar materials. 

A simple tool, the Wonder Cutter 
uses two D cells to beat a thin but 
strong wire which is held in a metal 
frame. Turning on the switch allows 
the wire to become hot almost instantly, 
and you can slowly "walk” the wire 
through sheet plastic as thick as 0.080". 
Don’t force the wire ahead; let the heat 
do its job, because although the wire is 
sturdy, it can be broken if too much 
force is applied. 

At only around $2.98, the Wonder 
Cutter is a handy tool on your work- 
bench, and clever modelers will find 
other uses for it. As with any new tool 
or techniąue, practice on scrap plastic 
or a discarded model before attempting 
"serious” work. Dave MusikołT 

Dental tools. If, like many modelers, 
you feel you can never have enough 
tools on your workbench, and if "free 
tools” sounds even better, why not ask 
your dentist. Yes, your dentist. Have 
you ever noticed those beautifully madę 
stainless steel probes, picks, and scrap- 
ers he uses to such effect? Have you 
wondered what he does with them when 
they get old and duli? Fact is, he either 
tosses them out or returns them to a 
dental supply house and receives a smali 
credit toward a replacement. As a re- 
sult, most dentists will gladly give you 
some of their cast-offs, and you’11 find 
that these little beauties are ideał for 
all sorts of modeling tasks, from apply- 
ing tiny portions of putty, to contour- 
ing, scraping, and scribing. 

So, the next time you make that 
dreaded trip to your favorite D. D. S., 
you can at least add a few goodies to 
the tool chest at the same time! 

Dave Musikoff 

Keep your files clean. An economi- 
cal and effective way to keep tiny mod- 
eler’s files clean and free from putty 
buildup is to use a suede brush. These 
brushes have brass bristles and do a 
splendid job on the smali files we use so 
often. They’re sold in most variety, drug, 
and grocery Stores, often for less than a 
dollar. Dave Musikoff 




Surgical tape belts and harnesses. 

At one time or another, just about ev- 
ery modeler has searched for a mate¬ 
riał from which he could manufacture 
authentic-looking fabric straps, belts, 
shoulder harnesses, and similar items. 
Most modelbuilders have settled for 
that old standby, masking tape, but 
masking tape usually ends up looking 
like masking tape in spite of the most 



PAINT SPRAY BOOTH 

Model PB-500 

Approximate inside dimensions (front)— 11 high, 26 wide. 16 
deep (tapers to rear) 

Blower—140 CFM sąuirrel cage with 6 cord and pług 

Filter system—1 x 10" x 20” fiberglass air conditioning filter. exter- 
nal filter bag. (Must be vented to outside if odor is objectionable. 
Filters will remove only paint particles.) 

Construction—Molded. one piece fiberglass. rubber feet. trim strip 
and aluminum filter retainer. White finish inside. 

Weight—Approximately 13 Ibs. 

Price—$150.00 plus $9.75 handling and shipping charges 

Trial run—50 units available. Prices subject to change without 
notice. 

PRECISION MANUFACTURING CO. 

4546 Sinclair Rd., San Antonio, TX 78222 


Fali 1982 


65 






















MINICRAFT 



1983 THUNDERBIRD F-16A 


AVAILABLE SOOH 

1:72 AND 1:32 

To learn morę about our 117 outstanding aircraft.armor and ship 
kits, send $2.00 for our 1982 twenty page fuli color catalog. 

MINICRAFT MODELS, INC. 1510 W. 228TH STREET 
TORRANCE, CALIF. 90501 


66 FineScale Modeler 





persistent efforts, and it has an annoy- 
ing habit of not staying where it’s put. 

Save the masking tape for masking, 
and go to any pharmacy or medical 
supply outlet and buy a roli of surgical 
tape — not adhesive tape, surgical tape! 
Several brands are available; the most 
common is 3M’s Micropore, and you 
can choose from several widths. It has 
an effective woven look, is thin and pli- 
able, takes paint well, and adheres to 
most clean surfaces. When cut with a 
sharp blade, it retains clean edges. At 
about $2.50 a roli, it’s a fabulously use- 
ful item. Dave Musikoff 

Drawing pencils. The next time you 
are in an art supply storę, check out 
their stock of colored drawing pencils. 
These look just like regular lead pen¬ 
cils, but the fillers come in every shade 
imaginable. Two common brands are 
Eagle and Venus. 

The most useful color I’ve found is 
silver. Sharpened like a regular pencil, 
the silver pencil can be used to give re- 
alistic highlights to any object that’s 
supposed to be metal. Try painting a 
machinę gun a dark shade of gunmetal, 
let it dry, and then carefully touch the 
raised details, the corners, and other 
areas with the pencil. With a little 
practice, you can simulate wear and 
tear very effectively; one advantage of 
the pencil over trying the same thing 
with paint is that if you mess up or 
overdo the effect, you can simply wet 
the area with water and rub away your 
mistakes. 

Military vehicle modelers may want 
to buy a white pencil and try their 
hands at simulating chalked-on slo- 
gans, loading markings, and the like so 
often seen on such vehicles. 

Da ve Musikoff 

Tiny electronic components. If you’re 
the sort of person who likes to install 
operating navigation lights and instru¬ 
ment console lights in your models, 
chances are you’ve discovered that or- 
dinary miniaturę wire and such compo¬ 
nents as resistors and potentiometers 
are far too large. So, where can you ob- 
tain such items as super-thin 19-strand 
hookup wire, l /s-watt resistors, and sub- 
miniature potentiometers? Forget about 
your local electronics storę, and simply 
wander over to the radio control model 
section of your hobby shop. Chances 
are they stock at least some submin- 
iature parts. If you can’t find what you 
want locally, try Ace R/C, Inc., Box 
511, 116 West 19th Street, Higgins- 
ville, MO 64037. The firm’s 1982 cata- 
log ($2.00) lists hundreds of submin- 
iature parts. Burr Angle 

Reversed biades. Razor saw blades 
are usually installed so that the blade 
cuts on the push stroke. If you would 
feel morę at ease with a blade that cuts 
on the puli stroke (as do many other 
handsaws), simply pry the blade from 



the U-shaped metal channel that serves 
as the blade holder, and reverse the 
blade. Mark the handle with a piece of 
colored tape so you can distinguish this 
saw from others. Burr Angle 

Beeswax. In the old days, I lubri- 
cated saw blades and drills with Vase- 
line when working with styrene and 
plexiglass. This kept the blades and 
drills from sticking to the work and in- 
creased the life of the tool. The only dif- 
ficulty was that Vaseline, a petroleum- 
base materiał, left greasy deposits that 
had to be washed away. One day a 


friend suggested beeswax as a lubri- 
cant for blades and drills. I tried it and 
it works great. It’s easier to use and be- 
cause less is reąuired, cleaning up is 
not as big a chore. A smali cake of 
beeswax lasts for years and you can 
buy it at any fabric storę or art supply 
storę. Burr Angle 



If your’re not already a subscriber, 
take advantage of this 

SPECIAL MONEY-SA VING 
SUBSCRIPTION OFFER! 

Receive 6 issues of SCALĘ AUTO ENTHUSIAST 
and a FREE20 word classified ad for just $12.00! 


5calefi(Jto 

enthusiast magazine 

__ 

The world’s leading Automotive Modę ling Magazine 

EACH ISSUE JAM-PACKED WITH THE BEST INFORMATION, 
PHOTOS, HOW-TO‘S, AND FEATURE ARTICLES 

written by some of the most widely-read experts in the hobby! 


Be Surę You Receive 
Every Issue 


Simply complete the 
subscription form at the 
right. Make check or money 
order payable to 
“THE ENTHUSIAST” 
and mail to 

SCALĘ AUTO ENTHUSIAST 
P.O. Box 10167 
Milwaukee, Wl 53210 


Cover price $2.75 


i Name 


J City 


Canada add $3.00 per year 
Overseas add $6.00 per year 


_Zip Code_ 


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$15.50 Value 

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CHECK APPROPRIATE BOXES 
WANTED _ FOR SALE 

PLASTIC PARTS 

METAL GENERAL 

DIE CAST MISCELLANEOUS 

TOYS LITERATURĘ 

Name and adilitu not Included In word counl. 


Fali 1982 


67 


































AFtf/PANZER Historlcal Research Center 
A COMPANY FOR SEMOUł MOPEŁEBS A HISTORIANS 




FineScale 


FINESCALE Modelek magazinc has an opening 
for an Associatc Editor. This is a full-timc carccr op- 
portunity for the person włth the rcquisite back- 
ground. abilitles, and personality. The person hired 
will work on the production of FINESCALE MOD- 
ELER and on related scalę modeling books. 

Applicants should havc a thorough knowledge of 
scalę plastic modeling. A college degrec is required, 
prefcrably in English or Journalism. The ability to 
type and to write and edit illustrated how-to-do-it 
copy are required. Experience In magazinc layout 
typography. and copy flow are definitc assets. 

Send a resume and samples to Bob Maydcn. Edi¬ 
tor. FINESCALE MODELER, 1027 fi. 7th Street, Mil¬ 
waukee, Wl 53233 not later than October 11. 1982. 
Katmbach Publishing Co. is an equal opportunity 
employer. 


MODELER 

^ A Career Job Opportunity *• 



Two tips for vacuum-form model- 
ers. I used to remove the lip left on 
vacuum-formed parts after they’ve been 
cut from the sheet with a hand-held 
sanding błock and medium- or coarse- 
grit sandpaper. While satisfactory, this 
was time-consuming and messy. Re- 
cently, I’ve taken to using a 1" bastard 
file (which must be new) to file down 
the lip until it’s almost transparent, 
and then using a sheet of 220-grit wet- 
or-dry sandpaper held fiat against a 
piece of mirror tile to remove the rest of 
the lip. This is faster, not ąuite as 


messy, and gives me much better control. 

Because I often build models such as 
the 1/72 scalę Northrop XB-35 Flying 
Wing shown that have parts larger 
than 12" long, I feel I could achieve 
even better results if I had sheets of 
wet-or-dry sandpaper larger than the 
standard 9" x 11". Does anyone know if 
such larger sheets are available? 

When detailing cockpits, I’ve found 
that dress snaps, sold in fabric Stores, 
make excellent control yokes. The snaps 
usually reąuire only minor modifica- 
tions. Alan C. Grifńth 



Microscale developed the largest selection of 
model decals because of our desire to make the 
best decals. Add the world famous Microscale Finish- 
ing System and you have the reason why Microscale is 
preferred by professionals for museum quality models— 
the Microscale System will work for you too! 


New Microscale Decals are 
released every month. See them at 
your hobby dealer! 

Send for your copy of our new 
illustrated catalog #81A 

$1.00 pp 



fCRO&CFILf 

DIV. 


KRASEL INDUSTRIES. INC. 

1821 E. Newport Circle, Santa Ana, CA 92705 


68 


FineScale Modeler 














Transporting models. FSM asked Joe 
Gianfrancesco to ship us a completed 
model so that we could take studio 
photos of it for use in an upcoming arti- 
cle. Joe lives in Salt Lakę City, and was 
faced with the problem of sending a 
delicate aircraft model all the way to 
Milwaukee. Here’s his solution: He first 
found a flat-sided Styrofoam box (a lot 
like a six-pack carrier) a few inches 
larger in all dimensions than the model. 
He then cut smali blocks of foam rub- 
ber and polyurethane seat cushion ma¬ 
teriał with which he lined the bottom of 
the box. He cut other blocks to support 
the model by its wing tips and horizon- 
tal stabilizer tips and placed the model 
on these blocks. Yet morę blocks went 
between the tops of the wing and hori- 


zontal stabilizer tips and the top of the 
box. These were slightly compressed 
when Joe put on the lid, ensuring the 
model could not shift about. He sealed 
the lid with filament tape. 

The piane survived a 1455-mile jour- 
ney with absolutely no damage, and be- 
cause the packaging materials are re- 
usable, we’ll pack the model in them 
when we return it. Burr Angle 


Would you like to share information on a 
useful tool or technique with other FSM 
readers? Send a brief description of the 
tool or technique and a black-and-white 
photo or a pencil sketch to FSM Tips, 
FINESCALE MODELER, 1027 North Sev- 
enth Street, Milwaukee, Wl 53233. Please 
enclose a stamped, self-addressed envelope. 


CLASSIFIED AD VERTISEMENTS 


PLEASE FURNISH STREET ADDRESS FOR FSM S PRIVATE 
RECORDS WHEN USING A P O. BOX NUMBER IN YOUR AD 


This section is open to anyone who want# to 
sell or buy scalę model ing merchandise. 
RATĘ: 20e per word. MINIMUM charge is 
$2.40. Count ALL initials. single numbers. 
groups of numbers ti.e.. AFV or B-24*. name. 
address numher. Street number. city. State, 
phone numbers each as one word. Zip codę is 
free. Payment shnuld be madę in ndvance. 

CLOSING DATĘ: Fali issue closes July 15. 


Winter issue closes October 15. Spring issue 
closes January 15. and Summer issue closes 
April 15. We do not furnish box numbers 
ALL COPY: is set in standard 6-point type. 
First several words only set in hołd face. If 
possible ads should In* sent typewritten to 
insure accuracy 

Send your ads to FineScale Modeler. 1027 N 
7th St.. Milwaukee. Wl 55235. 


_FOR SALE_ 

Brookhurst Hobbies, 12741 Brookhurst 
Way, Garden Grove, CA 92640 has military 
kit# from around the world! Plastic armof. 
aircraft, wargames, books, paints, tools. Mail 
order sent anywhere. Catalog, $2.50._ 

We have the latest plastic military and auto¬ 


mobile kit releases in stock. Mail order is a 
specialty with us. Also books, decals, paints. 
magazines, and morę. Write or cali. Teas En¬ 
gine House. 6307 Westfield. Pennsauken, NJ 
08110. (609) 662-0222._ 

Airliner model kits ivarious scales; domes- 
tic. imported, hard-to-find). decals, photo- 
graphs, publications, lithographs — large se- 


lection! Many exclusive items available. Mail 
orders are our specialty, quick deliverv every- 
where in the U. S. and around the world. Send 
$1 for latest catalog. Jet Set System USA, 
549-G Rambler, Ponce, PR 00731'. 


APC Hobbies: Discount mail order catalog, 
$1. Box 122, Earlysville, VA 22936._ 

Old kits for sale. Send SSAE to Charlie 
Pace, Box 122, Earlysville, VA 22936. Also 
buy old kits; send your list._ 

Heller 1982 color catalog. New. including 
the Constellation and Paris bus. 63 pages. $2 
postpaid. Polk’s Hobby Department Storę, 
314-5th Ave., New York, NY 10001. 


New 1/48 scalę Douglas Skynight, $16.95 

g istpaid. Corning soon: The Super Guppy. 

atalog sheets available for SSAK White Ea- 
gle Vacu-form Co., P. O. Box 1834, Dearborn, 
MI 48121. 


All your special needs. Plastic, metal, and 
wood; sheets, strips. and shapes. Fiber optics. 
electronics, and all types of lighting. Com- 
plete diorama supplies — all scales. Exclu- 
sive "forest-in-a-bag” award-winning method 
to create a realistic forest. covers 3' x 6’ area. 
$2 per bag. plus $1.50 per order shipping. 
Catalog sheets. $1.50. Train Exchange, 71 


Hilliard St., Manchester, CT 06040._ 

Looking for something different! 1/32 
scalę wbite metal farm tractors: 1939 Allis 
Chalmers B $22.50, 1939 International 

Farmall A $24.95. l/lo scalę white metal sta- 
tionary engines: 1917 l ] /2 h.p. Ingeco AJ 
$18.50, two others. Revell 1/48 scalę plastic 
trucks: Kenworth conventional and flatbed 
trailer $15, 1956 Chevy stake truck $12.50. 
White Coe and Fruehauf tanker $15. Ship¬ 
ping. $1.50 for first kit, 50e each additional 
kit. Maryland residents add 59f sales tax. 
LSSAE for list. Replicas & Miniatures Com¬ 
pany of Maryland, 7479-D Furnace Branch 
Rd., Glen Burnie, MD 21061. (301) 768-3648. 

F.YENTS 


October 16, 1982: IPMS Region IV 

Invitational ’82 at the Metro-Airport, 
Ramada Inn, Detroit, Mich. For further infor¬ 
mation and additional specifics, please write. 
Mr. David N. Cunningham. P. O. Box 2445, 
Dearborn, Ml 48123._ 

October 22-24, 1982: IPMS-New Jersey 
Midcon. Halbram Plaza } Pennsauken, N.J. 
Theme: Korea. Registration: $10 ($2 per per¬ 
son walk-in). Banóuet: $15. Contact: Midcon 
Registrations. c/o Mikę 0’Connor, 112 Wall 
St., W, Long Branch, NJ 07764. 


LOCAL HOBBY SHOP DIRECTORY 

COLORADO — Loveland 

HO & N gauge trains. plastic models. 
Wooden ships, wood supplies, paint supplies. 

X-acto and Dremel tools, model rockets. 
Open Mon-Fri 10-5:30. Sat 10-5. Sun 1-4:30. 

THOMPSONA HOBBIES 

1730 W. Eisenhower Blvd. 669-2326 

CONNECTICUT—Cos Cob 

Trains, planes, armor, doli houses and 
miniatures. All hobby accessories. 

HOBBY HOUSE 

405 E. Putnam Ave. 869-0969 

TELL YOUR HOBBY RETAILER YOU SAW HIS AD IN FSM 

Local Hobby Shop Directory listing# are ayailable for the next eight issues for $110 ipayable 
in advance> or for the next four issues for $60 ipayable in advance'. or at $15 per issue 'mini¬ 
mum of four insertionst. Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions musi be 
consecutive and may be charged if you have credit established with us. No mention of mail or¬ 
der business or area codę permitted. 

CLOSINO DATĘ: Fali issue closes July 15. Winter issue closes October 15. Spring issue closes 
January 15. and Summer issue closes April 15. 

ALABAMA — Montgomery 

Tools, paints, brushes, air brushes, 
styrene, detail parts, diorama supplies. 

Located in LeCroy Shopping Center. 
Tue-Fri 1:30-6. Sat 9:30-6. Closed Mon. 

TRAINMASTER OF MONTGOMERY 

3623 Debby Drive 288-5545 

CALIFORNIA —Los Angeles 

We stock Revel, Monogram, AMT, Tamiya, 
Testors,Hasegawa & morę. Tools & supplies. 
Also R/C planes, cars, boats, HO & N trains 
Open Monday-Saturday 10:15-7pm. 

NATICK STORĘ 

209 Wythe St. 626-3339 

CONNECTICUT — Manchester 

Complete plastics, cars, planes, trucks, ships. 
Military, diorama supplies, decals. 

The TRAIN EXCHANGE 

71 Hilliard SL 646-0610 

ARIZONA —Glendale 

Specialized for the detail modeler. 
Complete reference library. 
Headąuarters for ship models & parts. 

VAL’S HOBBY HANGAR 

5858 W. Camelback Rd. 934-6174 

CALIFORNIA —Orange 

Complete stock of styrene, paints, supplies & 
kits for modelers. One of Southern Cafifornia’s 
most complete stocks of model railroad 
supplies from #1 ga. to Z ga. Open 7 days 

FRANK S HOBBY SHOP 

6667-668 N. Tustin Ave. 639-9901 

DELAWARE — Wilmington 

Open 9:30 to 5:30 Mon thru Fri; Sat 10:00 to 5:00 
Complete assortment of hobby tools and large 
inventory of different models. 

If you can’t find it, ask us! 

VANDEVER’S HOBBY CENTER 

905 Orange St. 658-3896 

CALIFORNIA —El Cajon 

Plastic aircraft & armor kits, wargames, 
wargame figures, books, decals and militaria. 
Open Mon-Fri 11-6. Sat 10:30-5. Sun 12-4. 

MILITARY EMPORIUM 

700 N. Johnson #N 447-6662 

CALIFORNIA —Ontario 

We carry the tools, wood, plastic, and kits 
to complement any hobby field. 

Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm. 

JACKSHOBBYCRAFTS 

2250 Suitę B, So. Euclid 984-8700 

FLORIDA —West Plam Beach 

Fine tools. Supplies. Special orders. 
Mon-Fri 9:30-6. Sat 9:30-3. Closed Sunday. 

CRAFT HOUSE HOBBY SHOP 

1079 N. Milatary Trail 683-0764 

CALIFORNIA —Garden Grove 

Military kits, aircraft from around the world. 
Plastic armor, aircraft, wargames, books, 
paints.tools. Open Mon-Thur 12-8pm. 

Fri 2-8:30. Sat 10:30-7. Sun 12-o. 

BROOKHURST HOBBIES 

12741 Brookhurst Way 636-3580 

CALIFORNIA —Upland 

One of the largest selctions of kits, reference 
materiał, and accessories in the Southwest. 

J&M HOBBIES 

1655 N. Mountain 985-9212 

ILLINOIS —Chicago 

Complete stock domestic/imported N, HO, O 
kits and ready-to-run trains and supplies. Lio- 
nel, LGB, Unimat; crafts, boats, airplanes, live 
steam. collector’s items. 

TROST HOBBY SHOP 

3111 W. 63rd St. 927-1400 

CALIFORNIA — Lakewood 

Importers of scalę models, accessories, 
supplies, books & magazines from around the 
world plus all domestic lines. 

THE MILITARY SHOP 

Lakewood Center Mail No. 128 630-5556 

COLORADO — Grand Junction 

Western Colorado's complete hobby center. 
Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 9:30-5:30. 

The HOBBY HUT 

1125-27 North Ave. 242-8761 

ILLINOIS —East Moline 

Domestic and imported kits, paints, and 
scratchbuilding supplies; IPMS display 
models. 

LEISURE TIME HOBBY SHOP 

655 17th Avenue 755-5333 


ILLINOIS —South Holland 

One of Chicago area’s largest selections of 
plastic kits. 200 military, 500 cars, 

400 planes, 100 ships, 50 trucks. 

SCALĘ MODELS 

1048 E. 162nd_339-3922 

IOWA — Des Moines 

One of the midwesfs best selections of 
plastic models (ipjected & vacuformed), 
paints, decals, books, tools & supplies. 

IOWA SERVICE HOBBY 

2706 Beaver Ave._279-1173 

KANSAS —Overland Park 

One of the midwesfs finest selections of mili¬ 
tary models, miniatures, books, modeling sup¬ 
plies, war and fantasy games. 

THE KINGS CROWN 

6860 W. 105th St, 341-6619 


KENTUCKY — Hopkinsville 

A fuli linę model shop with an extensive 
selection of plastic kits & diorama, 
miniaturę and gaming supplies. 

We cater to the serious hobbiest. 

THE HOBBY SHOP 

Pennyrile Mail_886-5749 

LOUISIANA —Baton Rouge 

We specialize in plastic models of,all types and 
have the accessories and knowledge to help you 
finish your model to any degree. 

TOYS BY ROY 

8997 Cortana Mail 924-4618 


MASSACHUSETTS — Lawrence 

Radio control & model railroads our specialty. 
We cary a complete linę of plastic kits, acces¬ 
sories and supplies for the serious modeler. 
Mon-Fri 12 noon-9pm. Sat 9:30-5pm. 

VIC’S Hobby Shop 

390 Haverhill St (Rt. 10)_683-3581 

MASSACHUSETTS — Worcester 

"The Home of Hobbies sińce 1946" 
Plastic airplanes, ships, autos, paints, tools, & 
supplies. Complete linę armor. MC & VISA 
Daily 9:30-5:30. Wed Til 8 pm. 

HENRY S HOBBY HOUSE, Inc. 

34 Franklin St. 754-5604 


Fali 1982 


69 



















































MICHIGAN — Ann Arbor 

Kits Galore-Airbrushes & Accessories. 
Special orders for those hard-to-find items. 
Mon-Fri 11 to 9, Sat 9:30 to 5:30. 

RIDER S HOBBY 

115 W. Liberty St. 668-8950 

NEW YORK —Flushing/Oueens 

Large selection of plastic and wood kits, dio¬ 
rama and scratchbuilding supplies, trains: 
HO & N, R/C supplies, metal figures and gam- 
ing, arts and crafts. 

HARMONY HOBBIES 

196-30 Northern Blvd. 224-6666 

MICHIGAN —Dearborn 

Open Monday thru Saturday 10am-9pm. 
Open Sunday l2-4pm. 

Vz mile west of Hyatt Regency 

WALTS HOBBY 

22001 Michigan 277-2513 

NEW YORK —New York City 

5 floors of Hobbies 

Our wide selection includes Heller, Iron Cur- 
tain kits, and domestic lines. 

POLK S HOBBY 

314 5th Ave. 279-9036 

MISSOURI — Kansas City 

1000’s of military & fantasy miniatures. 

100’s of fantasy & military games. 
Models, MicroScale, books, accessories. 

YANKEE DOODLE GAMĘ & HOBBY 

6831 Longview Rd. 761-1113 

NEW YORK —Utlca 

Imported & domestic plastic models. 

HO & N scalę trains. Rockets, air brushes, 
books, scratchbuilding suplies. 

DISCOUNT HOBBY CENTER 

40& dames St. 733-3741 

NEBRASKA — Bellevue 

Just outside the Strategie Air Command 
Museum means plastic models are our 
specialty. Worth a visit. 

AIR-CRAFT HOBBIES 

706 W. Mission 291-6630 

OHIO — Cleveland 

Airplanes. boats, RC, rockets, plastic kits, 
trains, books, tools, wargames. 
Mon-Fri 10-8:30. Tue-Wed-Thur-Sat 10-5. 

NATIONAL HOBBY, INC. 

5238 Ridge Road 749-2450 

NEW JERSEY — East Brunswick 

Role playing games, books, magazines, 
hobby kits from around the world. 
Milatary and fantasy miniatures. 

HO trains and paints. 

ADVENTURE HOBBIES 

290 Route 18, Int’nl Mkt. 583-2088 

OHIO — Columbus 

All scales of imported and domestic aireraft, 
armor and miniatures. Decals, books, paints. 
12-9 daily, 12-5 Sunday 

STRETE HOBBIES 

3655 Sullivant Ave. 279-6959 

NEW JERSEY — Pennsauken 

The latest in plastic milatary kits, books, 
magazines, paints and decals. We have 
automobile and ship kits. 

TEDS ENGINE HOUSE 

6307 Westfield 662-0222 

OHIO — Oak Harbor 

Plastic & wood kits, scratchbuilding 
and diorama supplies. Tools and 
accessories. Personalized and friendly 
service. Located in the Mini-Mall. 

OAK HARBOR HOBBIES 

142 W. Water St. 898-1300 

NEW JERSEY — Red Bank 

One of New Jersey’s most complete hobby 
centers.OpenMon-WedlO-6.Thur&Fri 10-8. 
Sat 10-5. Sun 12-4. 

HOBBYMASTERS 

62 White Street 842-6020 

OREGON—Astorla 

Plastic model kits, complete linę of minia- 
turesandboardgames.HO&Nscalesupplies. 
Orders on reąuest. Open 10 to 6 Mon-Sat. 

LEN S HOBBY CENTER 

1150 Duane St. 325-1394 

NEW YORK — Brooklyn 

Complete linę of military kits, both domestic 
and imported. Paint and accessories. 
Mon, Thur, Fri 10:30-8:00pm, 

Tue, Wed, Sat 10:30-6:00pm 

WALT S HOBBY SHOP, Inc. 

7909 5th Ave. 745-4991 

OREGON —Corvallis 

Complete stock - R/C, plastics, trains, tools, 
paints, scenery, books, structural materials, 
air brushes, woods, catalogs, trains Z, N, HO, O. 

AJ S HOBBIES 

2025 NW Circle 753-7540 

NEW YORK — Floral Park 

Complete selection of models; 
military, airplanes, cars. 

Building supplies, paints and tools 

MALVERNE HOBBY SHOP 

270 Jericho Turnpike. 328-3496 

PENNSYLVANIA — Erie 

Plastic kits, books, games, railroads. 
Metal figures, historical & fantasy. 

Open Monday-Friday 11-8. Saturday 9-6. 

PENN STATION MODEL SHOP 

3435 West Lakę Rd. 833-5423 


RHODE ISLAND — Pawtucket 

All types of model kits, domestic & imported, 
ofa & new, for all interests; plus books, 
paints, magazines, tools and supplies. 

Open Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm. Sat 10am-6pm. 

PARENT HOBBIES 

270 West Ave. 722-2398 

VIRGINIA —Richmond 

Quality selection of model aireraft, armor, 
ships, figures and reference materiał. 

Exit 14 of 1-95 and 1-64. 

Open Monday-Saturday 10-6. Friday 10-8. 

HIGH COMMAND HOBBIES 

3108 N. Boulevard 355-1941 

RHODE ISLAND —Westerly 

One stop hobby center. Large selection of 
plastic & wood model kits. Many tools and 
accessories for easier modeling. 

Open Monday thru Saturday 

IRON HORSE HOBBIES 

62 High Street 596-7228 

WASHINGTON — Bellevue 

One of Seattle’s finest shops for the 
fine scalę modeler. Open Mon-Tue 10-8. 

Fri & Sat 10-midnight. Sun noon-5. 

THE TRIPLE ALLIANCE 

10328 Main Street 453-8939 

FILL ALL YOUR NEEDS 

ALL THE TIME 

AT YOUR HOBBY DEALER 

WASHINGTON —Oak Harbor 

Plastic models 

MicroScale decals — Humbrol paint. 
Complete model railroading department. 

TED S HOBBY & TOY 

1090 W. Pioneer 675-4392 

TEXAS — Abilene 

Ouality models for creative modelers. 

Fuli linę hobby shop featuring plastic models, 
trains, RC, fantasy figures and games. 

Stop and say ’hi’ to Margret and Otto! 

THE HOBBY CENTER 

3421 S. lst 672-7388 

WASHINGTON — Seattle 

Scalę model ships, trains, planes, tanks, 
military & wargaming miniatures, books, 
tools, decals, etc. Mon.^ed, Fri 12:30-6:00; 
Tue, Thur 12:30-8:00; Sat 10:00-6:00. 

American Eagles Inc. Military Hobbies 

8556-58 Greenwood N. 782-8448 

TEXAS — Aballne 

For just about the best scalę modeling and 
models. Monthly meetings. 

Open 9-5:30 Monday through Saturday. 

MAKER S HOBBIES 

715 Grapę Street 673-3291 

WISCONSIN — Madison 

One of the midwesfs most complete hobby 
shops. Tools, plastickits, wargames, model raif- 
roaaing, miniatures. Hours: 9-9 Mon & Fri, 9-6 
Tue, Wed, Thur, 9-5:30 Sat, 12-5 Sun. 

MIDVALE HOBBY SHOP 

505 S. Midvale Blvd. 238-2233 

TEXAS — Arlington-D/FW Metroplex 

Kits-tools-details-wood-plastic 

Books-scenics-paints-R/C-D/D 

HO, N railroad layouts 

Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-6. We are modelers 

THE HOBBY HUB 

903A Pioheer Pkwy W. 265-8101 

CANADA — Alberta, Edmonton 

Fine scaler’s supplies, literaturę 
hobby tools, special orders 

ROUNDHOUSE SALES 

7931 104th St 433-0917 

TEXAS — Austin 

Our specialty is scalę modeling. 

Wide selection of domestic and foreign kits, 
paints, tools, books and supplies. 

KING S HOBBY SHOP 

8810 Lamar 836-7388 

CANADA — Fredericton, N. B. 

The modelers storę. Specializing in trains, 
armor, planes, war & fantasy games. 

Only ouality lines stockea. 

Open Tue-Wed 9-5. Thur-Fri 9-9. Sat 9-5. 

THE RAILHEAD 

384 Queen Street 455-9274 

TEXAS —lrving (Dallas Area) 

Aviation books, profiles, magazines, imported 
plastic kits. HO, N scalę trains, FAOW, R/C, 
U/C planes and cars. Mon 1-7. Tue-Sat 9:30-7. 

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP 

108 S. Lee St. 438-9233 

CANADA — Ottawa, Ontario 

One of Canada’s leading model shops. 
Complete linę of military & aireraft kits, 
decals, paints and accessories. 

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD. 

478 Rideau St. 232-2778 

UTAH — Roy 

Complete lines of plastics, books, wargames 
ana figures, accessories and paints with 
expert advice to aid you. 

Special ordering is our business. 

MATT S MODELS 

5649 S. 1900 W. 825-1400 

CANADA —Montreal, Ouebec 

Model kits, painting supplies, air brushes, free 
advice and expert help. Regular storę hours 6 
days a week. 

CARL S HOBBY SHOPS Ltd. 

6056 St. Hubert St 273-6008 


INDEK TO ADUERTISERS 

WE BELIEVE that our readers are as important as our 
advertisers; therefore, we try to handle all readers' com- 
plaints promptly and carefully. If, within a reasonable 
length of time, you do not receive your merchandise or a 
satisfactory reply from an advertiser, please write to us. In 
your letter please detail exactly what you ordered and the 
amount of money you sent. We will then forward your 
complaint to the advertiser for action. If no action is ulti- 
mately obtained, we will refuse to accept further advertis- 
ing from him. Address complaints to: FineScale Modeler, 
1027 N. Seventh St., Milwaukee, Wl 53233. 


A 

AFV Panzer.68 

Aero Publishers.17 

Archer’s Hobby World.59 

Aztex Corporation .35 

B 

Badger Air Brush.43 

Binks.50 

John W. Burns.19 

C 

Cal-Scale.49 

Castolite.62 

CloverHouse .63 

Combat Models. 8 

Combat Series .49 

D 

D&J Hobby &Craft .58 

Robert' DeMaio . . ..61 

E 

Empire-Pacific Ltd.58 

Evergreen Scalę Models . 8 


F 

lst Armored Model Supply Company. 8 

FineScale Modeler.11, 19, 68 

Floąuil-Polly S Corp.35 

G 

Grandt Linę Products.19 

R. M. Groene & Co.60 

H 

Harold’s Place . 651 

R. H. Hebner Distributing Co.18 


J 

JMC International.49 

K 

Kalmbach Publishing Co.63, 71 

A. Kempees .62 

Kit Collectoris Clearinghouse.19 

L 

LST Products.48 

Lencraft .61 

M 

Microscale Decals.68 

Minicraft Models .66 

Meta Models. 6 

Metali zer Products.64 

Mitchell Products.59 

Model Car Masterpieces . 5 

Model Rectifier Corp.72 

The Model Works.62 


N 

Northwest Short Linę.48 

P 

The Plastic Place .61 

Precision Manufacturing Co.65 

R 

R. V. F. Hobby Imports. 6 

RarePlanes.64 

Repla-Tech International .61 

S 

Scalę Auto Enthusiast.67 

Strete Hobbies.18 

Swan Island Replications .62 

Squadron Mail Order.50 

Squadron/Signal Publications.13 

T 

299 Models.61 

Tenax7R .18 

Testor Corporation.,. 2 

V 

Victoria Products.19 

Vintage Castings.43 

W 

Waldron Model Products .60 

Wra. K. Walthers. 4 

Weapons & Warfare Quarterly.62 

Williams Brothers. 9 

Wings 48 & Wings 72 .57 


70 FineScale Modeler 








































































































A new book by Sheperd Paine! 




MODELING TANKS 
AND MILITARY 
YEHICLES 


MODELING TANKS AND MILITARY 
VEHICLES is a superb new book for 
scalę modelers written by Sheperd 
Paine, master modeler and author 
of the acclaimed title, HOW TO 
BUILD DIORAMAS. 

In the 76 pages of MODELING 
TANKS AND MILITARY VEHICLES, Paine 
shows you how to build accurate, 
realistic armor models that you'll be 
proud of. Whether you're a 
beginner or a veteran modelbuilder, 
MODELING TANKS AND MILITARY 
VEHICLES will increase your 
modeling enjoyment and improve 
your modelbuilding skills. With 
well-written how-to-do-it 
instructions, 228 razor-sharp 
photos, and 57 detailed drawings, 


ASSEMBLY, PAINTING, SCRATCHBUILDING, 
C0NVERSI0N, WEATHERING, AND DETAIUNG 

A complete how-to-do-tt 
guidebookforbeginning, 


hitermediate, and 
advanced military 
yehicle modeling. 


MODELING TANKS AND MILITARY 
VEHICLES covers basie modeling 
techniques such as kit assembly 
and painting, then progresses to 
kit conversions, weathering, 
detailing, and even scratch- 
building! Paine concentrates on the 
popular 1/35 scalę in this book, 
but his extraordinary modeling tips 
can be applied to all scales! 

MODELING TANKS AND MILITARY 
vehicles will be available in mid- 
September 1982. Ask for a copy at 
your favorite hobby shop, $8.95, or 
use the coupon to order direct 
today! 


1. Basic kit assembly 

2. Painting armor 
models 

3. Weathering 

4. Reference and 
research 

5. Conversion and 
scratchbuilding 
technigues 


6. Step-by-step: 
Two easy kit 
conversions 

7. Detailing and 
superdetailing 

8. Modeling extra 
gear and 
eguipment 


9. Step-by-step: 
The Super 
Sherman 

10. Battle damage 

11. Building from 
scratch 

12. Step-by-step: 
An M25 tank 
transporter 


DEPT. 3953 

KALMBACH 


BOOKS 


1027 N. Seventh St., Milwaukee, Wl 53233 


Enclosed is $ _ for _ copies of MODELING TANKS AND MILI¬ 

TARY N/EHICLES at $8.95. Include for postage and handling: U. S. $.75, 
foreign, $1.25. Wisconsin residents add 5 per cent sales tax. 

mamę _ Charge to: [Tl MasterCard 

CARD NUMBER ^ V/5A _ DAT ^ ~ 


STATE. ZiP _ SIGNATURE 



If you dont wish to clip your magazine. copy the necessary information including department number on a separate sheet. 


© KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. 

































MRC-Tamiyas % scalę 
motorcycle series... 

striking realism 
at a surpr ising price. 


IF YAMAHA, SUZUKI AND HONDA MADĘ MODELS, 
THEY D LOOK LIKE THESE. 

Because MRC-Tamiya makes precise models that are really 
big on detail. they re perfect for your shelf top display case or racing 
diorama. Whether you choose our Honda CB750F or the Yamaha 
YZR500 Grand Prix Racer, or any ot the others in this new super 
series, you II get a kit that looks and “acts” like the real thing. 

DOWN TO THE LAST HEAD BOLT 



1401 Yamaha YZR500 



1402 Yamaha RZ250 



I. 


Take our Suzuki RGB500 for example. Just like its fuli scalę 
prototype, it has a superbly detailed, sguare, 4-cyiinder. watercooled % ^ 





The Suzuki RGB500 G.P. Racer (1403) is shown 
here with and without cowling. The cowling 
has been removed for a better photographic 
look at the precision detailing. 


engine thats accurately reproduced down to the last head bolt. 
It even has plastic pług wires and water hoses ... to give you a scaled 
down powerplant that look? so real you can almost hear it screamin. 
But there s morę. Operational steering plus a full-floating rear 
suspension that swings, dampened by a real metal spring. It looks every bit 
as.real as the one that earned Suzuki the 1980 World Manufacturers 
Trophy. So collect just one. or collect them all, you II have a series that s 

a challenge to build. and a pleasure to show. 

MRC-TAMIYA ... we add realism to everything we make. 


1406 Honda CB750F 


TAMIYA 


Model Rectifier Corporation / PO. Box 710 
2500 Wóodbridge Ave., Edison, N.J. 08818 


1407 Honda CB90ÓF2